Gamith
-
Posts
290 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Gallery
Events
Alphard Videos
Guides
Posts posted by Gamith
-
-
This happens after the battery is reconnected.
From the drivers seat lower the window and hold the button down once it has reached the bottom for 10 seconds, then push the button up and hold for 10 seconds when it reaches the top.
Move to each window in turn and repeat.
That is assuming that the fuses are all Ok and, as you say, the window control isolation switch is not active.
-
If you look on aliexpress (amongst others) you will find plenty of light options. It depends on what you want to achieve. There are ones that stick and others that have a tab to get inserted into the gaps in the trim.
-
Do you have a JOBD compatible code reader? if not one is a wise investment. Clear any existing codes and then start the car up to see what appears after another scan. There are two fuse boxes in the engine compartment and two in the cabin (at least on my 2005) - one is indeed behind the glove box on the passenger side and the other is on the drivers side.
I have attached a LibreOffice sheet with info on fuses.
Alphard Fuses - with fuse type.ods
Check the battery terminals are securely connected. alternator and earth connections also.
With an electrical tester check that the fuses are still working, especially 21 and 22 on the passengers side and 2 on the drivers - they are marked as 'Engine Computer'.
A picture of the dashboard when trying to start the engine to show which lights are lit may possibly help.
Finally get a mobile auto-electrical engineer out to take a look.
By the sounds of it the ignition system, fuel pump and starter motor are working at least.
-
If you have a JODB compatible reader that should, hopefully give some clues. Clear the existing codes and wait for it to happen again then read again. It may be something like an air or fuel filter that needs replacing, but more likely would be a lambda sensor - the code scanner will point you in the right direction - there are lots of post on the forum.
-
1 hour ago, George29 said:
Problem solved - local Toyota dealer came up trumps.
Cool - did they say what the issue was?
-
More likely to be a loose or leaky pipe to that jet I would have thought, possibly the jet is in need of a clean out with a paperclip or something?
-
As far as I am aware only the first generation (up to 2008) have the reversing middle seats - I am prepared to be corrected 🙂
The options with the head unit is to keep the current one and either learn Japanese, use google translate and/or make stickers for the buttons or replace the head unit and for that you will need to do a fair bit of research as there are lots of functions that are likely to be affected; reversing camera, front side cameras (if fitted), steering wheel controls for audio at least. This is complicated a bit more if you have 18 speaker system fitted and / or the drop down screen(s).
The connections behind the head unit are unlikely to fit a replacement so expect a lot of wiring work or fitting of specific adapters.
-
1
-
-
Ok, so I cheated and detached the cup support on the replacement and it was a simple click into place job.
I didn't fancy having to take the lower dashboard / console apart, at least not today.
-
1
-
1
-
-
So my one had a 'previous owner supplied' unit which was ugly and impractical. I have now got a similar unit which attaches in the same location, but it's equally not pretty or uses the original wiring loom - it has it's own 12v feed and video feed.
None the less here is my solution. A good point is that I can tilt the camera up and down to get a better view, currently it has the bumper in view and a few feet beyond that, but also I get a much wider view - I can see both sides of a parking bay, where before I was only seeing a zoomed in view of the very back of the bay.
This camera does a much better job.
-
For the side door opening I find I have to hold the button down for a few seconds to get it to do anything.
-
I would assume its a 43474E Damper, Front Drive Shaft, LH but you will want to check amayama.com to make sure. For 18UKP (plus postage) I would be tempted to get one anyway - the issue will be disassembling the driveshaft to get the old one off and the new one on - put a day or two aside for that, or take it to a friendly garage of course. As to whether you actually need it I can't say but I would assume that if you did need one you would know when driving it.
-
Mine is definitely missing - I don't suppose there is a part number on it?Never mind - sourced a complete unit from ebay.
-
1
-
-
I need to look at mine also as I'm not sure I even have that, which looks like a lever to tighten the grip on a cup.
-
I think I might have a spare reflector (not a light) as I ordered one to replace a broken one that I managed to glue back together. When I get home tonight I will (probably forget) see if I can find it, if that's of any help.
Equally you could try amayama.com or aliexpress.
-
I came across this pic in Internet wandering and remembered this post, look like it's been answered but the pic might help.
-
Oh - I also found one of these very useful, together with a standard socket wrench.
-
I was getting P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)" also and cleaning the MAF didn't help - the error would come back.
What fixed it for me was changing the fuel Lambda sensor which, on mine, was a struggle as the previous mechanic had forced the sensor into place and had damaged the thread.
An M18 x 1.5 tap and die cleaned up both the thread on the exhaust and the new sensor which I purchased - I would warn to be on the lookout for ones with the correct plug on the end as the cheap ones come with bare wires that need to be housed in the original socket (as the supplied ones don't stand a chance of fitting) and are bound to cause issues.
I ended up getting this one:
https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-anh15-24-front-fuel-ratio-sensor-34437-p.asp
Which is rather expensive but arrived quickly and was a straight plug in.
If you haven't located the fuel lambda sensor look at the exhaust manifold cover behind the radiator.
I also changed the fuel filter and the air filter - which may have helped but less so that the sensor I would say.
-
2
-
-
-
It doesn't fit in the hole, mores the pity, but a previous owner fitted a similar one, screwing into the bodywork. I am hoping the replacement fits and gives a wider angle view.
-
Tried this but it didn't fit properly - it only points straight down: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FJ7VZNQV?ref_=pe_109253361_1103576791_t_fed_asin_title
So now have one of these on order:
Hopefully arriving in the next few days, I will update when I can.
-
Yep - this is normal behaviour after the battery gets disconnected.
That and the clock will need resetting 🙂
For each window:
press the 'down' button until the window drops all the way and then hold for 10 seconds, then
raise it up to full and hold for 10 seconds
-
1
-
-
When I had a PO171 code - System too lean (bank 1) - I initially changed the MAF sensor, which didn't make a difference, and ended up replacing the O2 sensor in the exhaust, which was a pain as the previous person had broken the thread and I had to get a new tap and die (M18 x1.5) to cut the thread out again - I only did it up hand tight as I didn't want to break the new thread.
Still working fine though.
-
1
-
-
I have used amayama several times and they are excellent - it takes a while to arrive but original parts at reasonable prices (on the whole - depends of what you are buying and what you think is reasonable) also very useful to make sure you are getting the correct part.
-
1
-
-
Yes, it comes out easily - I don't need to force mine much at all, so if you are struggling you probably need to change your method. I usually start on one side but I doubt it makes much difference.
You could even force some hook-like thing into the slot as there is nothing of value behind - in Japan it's used to hold a toll card.
2004 Alphard tailgate brake light bulb replacement
in Toyota Alphard Servicing
Posted
It's a bit long but might help.