Gamith

There are loads of hits on e bay for 4342028030 - depends on which bit you are after.

Yes, sort of - I tried but I was unable (the first time) to get the MAF out as it's in an awkward location behind the air-box. So I removed the air filter cover and filter and sprayed the MAF with a load of isopropyl - gave it a good soaking and that was it. I let it dry out and started it some time later (maybe 2 hours) with some difficulty but then it fired and all good, though a little while later the check engine light came back on. 😞 So I ordered a replacement part, which turned out to not be a Toyota / Denso stamped part, and fitted it this morning - I was somewhat stumped getting it out and initially thought there were no screws holding it in, but in fact they are tiny cross-head screws, hidden in their recesses and a little fiddly to extract (especially on a cold morning). However once removed the MAF came out really easily and I put the new part in and started the engine Ok. I then cleared the fault code (P0171 system too lean on bank 1) and re-read it, it was clear - though the engine light would normally come on after 5 to 30 mins driving so I am not holding my breath. Took about 30 mins for the replacement to be fitted at a guess, though I was faffing around with other stuff such as taking the grill off to retrieve a screwdriver that fell down there. I have attached pictures of the removed MAF and you can see the nice clean side, as well as the not cleaned side. The third picture is the best I could do to show the metal strips inside - obviously the spray didn't get anywhere close to them. As this is now a spare part I will give it a good dosing with the Isopropyl and a go with a swab then put it into stores should I need it. So my takeaway is that the MAF needs to be removed to clean it, otherwise not worth trying to do it through the filter.

Just to add that my 2005 facelift 10 creeps forward on the flat also - not fast, not quite walking speed if I were to guess. Obviously when in D and with the brake(s) off. From my limited knowledge of automatics (AA Book of the Car) it could be due to a high idle speed and / or the fluid flywheel being too full or having it's fluid not fluid enough (or too much, I guess either would do the same). I would say it's normal, but you might need to consider the ambient temperature as that may affect performance, both of the auto-box and the engine when on 'choke' after starting as mine revs high then anyway (though I am awaiting a replacement MAF sensor as I am getting the P0171 lean fuel on bank 1 message and a spray with cleaner hasn't made any difference).

>would suggest the enhanced light stalk would not be compatible, unless you ran new wiring, and changed or modified the clock spring too. Thank you, that's saved me in the region of £70. We will live with the dashboard switch then. Unless someone has successfully fitted a rear fog light and stalk control to a 2005 facelift model and can tell us all how they did it. 🙂 (I know I should be looking through all the posts but there are so many of them and mostly talking about 20 series from what I can see).

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8414042080 - it will take a time to get here, but that number will also work on the usual websites. I am just trying to find out whether it's actually worth my while getting one, or whether it won't work on a series 10 (facelift). Your model number and type are useful as it will filter items just for your vehicle.

I gave it a go last time and you are quite right - taking the bumper off is the best / only way. I did find that the center top of the bumper, i.e. under the catch plate, wouldn't free up. I couldn't see anything to release or unscrew so I had to manage by pulling the bumper away from the body-work and propping it.

Thank you Chris.ac - I am about to order the rear-fog light enabled indicator stalk (https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8414042080) would I be wasting my money? I have already ordered the relay. I would like to have a neat solution to turning the fog lights on and off, currently it's the stalk for the fronts and a dashboard switch for the rears. The current fog light switch looks to have been modified already but I know it feeds the ones I have connected in the bumper - the problem is that it's fed from ACC rather than the headlight feed, so if the ignition is on the rear fogs can be as well.

Take a look at aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-alphard.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.search.0) and search for 'alphard' - lots come up. A popular add-on on the site are plastic light strips that you can feed into gaps between the trim, and then change colour should you wish. I have seen some for the door rails and areas like that! You can also get replacement interior lights in different colours, thing like that.

Mine work Ok - I get a rear, front and corner warnings and they are graduated well, with 3 levels of warning (I think). My only complaint is that the rear camera is rather zoomed in, so you don't get any idea of where the vehicle is in relation to the view. Is it possible that the sensors have been rotated (if that's possible, they are round) so you aren't getting the coverage that you should - maybe they are scanning a lot more sky then they should?

I think you mean Denis 🙂

My fuse box that holds the radio fuse is in the passenger foot-well, but the layout is different from yours though. I plan on putting a load of these (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084VLKNSV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) into the fuseboard to feed the different additions* as the current draw on the audio line is too much and the fuse keeps blowing. My bodging has the radio coming on but the touchscreen doesn't work - a new fuse allows it to work for a while but then it blows and it stops again. * HUD speedometer Dashcam 2x double USB sockets 2nd 'Cigarette lighter' socket A mirror auto-retraction module (which has tipped it over the line 😞 ) This is in addition to the mods that have happened to it over the years and have left the wiring behind the dash somewhat haphazard.

Update - having fed the wire down to the bumper area and fitting the new LED reflectors into place I now have some quite bright fog lights. They are still fed from a simple push switch on the dashboard, which is connected to ACC rather than the headlight switch - so I am hopefully Ok for the MoT, however I would like to get a 'normal' fog light action if I can. So if I get: Replacement indicator stalk 84140-42080 and Relay 90987-02027 Would they work with a 10 facelift? Can I just plug in the relay, replace the steering wheel indicator stalk and then find the feed in the bumper area? A quick look in the bumper area doesn't show a nice big connector such as Simbads. Thoughts please? 1) I did wire the red and white feeds to be extra bright, they are red, but the phone camera shows them more white than red. 2) I know it needs a clean 3) I know the nearside boot light is out - annoyingly it comes back on when I have the boot apart and then doesn't come on when it's all put back again.

Cheers @starider - I will put the additive in and give the MAF a good clean and see whether the P0171 code stops appearing. If not then those numbers will come in handy.

Looking at this: The conclusion seemed to be that 'As far as I’m aware, this light indicates the engine immobiliser is active. Just a security thing.' is it normally supposed to flash, but there was an issue and clearing the error via the OBD has caused it to work again? I will be putting a bottle of 'Wynns Catalytic Converter & Lambda Cleaner' in the tank tomorrow and then cleaning the MAF sensor with 'Halfords Electrical Contact Cleaner 500ml' to see if either help - it shouldn't hurt at least. I am also hoping to install a couple of these 'https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265653102036' which I am amazed to find come with bright LEDs already fitted! I reckon they sent me these instead https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265450629110?itmmeta=01JHTYPQRZ7ZGVG4AQ9QE2Z02C&hash=item3dce1727f6:g:ROEAAOSwtCthtzo5. Not that I will be complaining.

Ours used to behave itself but now continues to flash unless the key is in the ignition.

'click in head goes off' This morning when I was checking the codes (as the check engine light had come on) and I first saw the P0171 code, there was also a 'B2799 Engine Immobiliser System' code. So clearing the P0171 code is an obvious issue as it has returned. As the B2799 code had not returned I assumed it must have happened when the new keys were being programmed and promptly forgot about it. I was obviously a little hasty in that - if this light is the immobiliser system then obviously something is wrong with it. The strange thing is that there is no error code for it now. Hmm curiouser and more curious.

PM sent, thank you

Good afternoon all, Has anyone seen this icon before? its started flashing and I had to grab a video to see what it actually is. It still flashes when the car is locked up. I have checked the doors and they all close. The Alphard locks up Ok so I don't think it's that. I have recently had two extra keys made and programmed up but they have been working fine for around a week but that's the only key-related activity I can think of. I need to sort out the power though as there have been quite a few modifications to it and at least one fuse blows on a regular basis and takes out the touchscreen on the head unit and also makes the sonar beep a lot - though of course this might just be other issues popping up. 🙄 The flashing light goes off when I put the key in the ignition but comes back on again after I remove it. The ODB reader only shows a 'P0171 Syetem too lean (Bank 1)' error which I have cleared once - it's come back so I will have to look at that but I doubt it's got anything to do with this. Maybe it is telling me the battery in the key 'fob' is low? Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Cheers Paul

Thank you - that shows me what to expect for my fog light experience (my one had a fog light switch on the dash but it fed a wire that ended up coiled up in the boot lid!) which so far ends in a add-on light hanging under the bumper. It looks as though I should be able to unscrew the reflectors from underneath - though taking the whole bumper off is also pretty easy.

Hello everyone, I recently (July 2024) bought a 2005 (19 years old, it will be having it's 20th birthday in May) Alphard - it came with a full remote key and an unlock key (no 'fob') which we have since managed to lose. I have been trying to get extra keys for it. The guys at ARC Locksmiths in Stevenage sorted me out. I visited them to find out the the frequency of the current key and then searched on Ebay for matching blanks to end up getting 2 of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386967938897 (Which have 'J636 314Mhz +67 2005-2009 printed on the packet 🙂 if that is of any help to anyone) After that the ARC guys cut the two blanks to match the current key (though they said that the blank metal was likely to be particularly tough so they hoped their machine was able to cope, but it was fine) and tested the locking / unlocking, opening / closing of the doors which all went well. It was then a matter of the programming and after some delays and too-ing and fro-ing they found they needed a cross-over box to re-wire the OBD output for their kit to read it properly. After that it was quite a 'simple' (for them - not for me 🙂 ) task to copy the settings onto the the new blanks and jobs a good'un - done in about 5 mins at the end. I got them to cut a couple of house keys while I was there. So if you are in the area and need some keys cutting / programming they know what to do for a 2005 (facelift) Alphard at least and I would recommend them. They are on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=arc locksmiths

Hopefully one of these will help:

I am thinking of modding the reflectors to add LED/COB strips - is it possible to remove them from a 2005 rear bumper by getting access from underneath or am I looking at dropping the bumper. I already have a dashboard switch and cable in place - currently it's feeding a light on a hanger under the bumper, which doesn't work too well and looks rather naff also.

I have also been struggling with the names of the different types of fuses as I was confusing 'Micro' with what looks to be 'Low Profile Mini': I am assuming that the two types of Mini aren't interchangeable - that would make things too easy.

Well done in getting so far - it sounds as though the whole engine needs to be soaked in light oil before you even start - lots of stuck bolts. I assume you have come across broken stud extractor sets such as: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365271455086?_skw=bolt+extractor&itmmeta=01JGTSSAR4EK59KY5H0ADGDSTX&hash=item550be0156e:g:UbYAAOSw2mFlUZIp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkG6EKa5tVjRTqx5ve1SwAImdGHm98p%2BIA%2FgADz36B35L%2Bn2rtY5nbnJ%2Fh3rIr3OCmbsCYbk394w3uwfRDDLcBW0FU6MGkO1Lw2XquVJkKDgm9MM1dneyA%2BDdx7nAGqyg9SjqjfYYfAL3I35bxzHhzu9FKuKZ7V84zOzNBqfn%2BilIc4PqBolvLUoTOv5gGt%2BdgxYLVwKxmkl0GvpkOUvHJZUR7mLRamnDJ%2FejnUpMxcebIeldZ5cAC1WTgsmi9brss%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR56s5dmGZQ Good luck getting those stuck ones out.

I have also found these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364658290292?_skw=Micro+Blade+Fuse+Adapter&itmmeta=01JGTP24G53WV6KM9H2VQ0BK6H&hash=item54e753ee74:g:oSMAAOSwV5BllNCw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmxdoLQ0oMo4WJzuUWlOzgoK9fSfS4Y5b%2BwFfUl%2BTKKkulMP6XMTBwnupb8yHtMPz1Kn05MmsGsMMon%2BZZeTCAIVnP4sI4Kk8JELrKe6xi9fW33D%2BZNgK%2Bk%2FpSktSA4hsrkO4zRIAMNBz6UpWqahNU0cTv4uqgFMyWWQTUml1PbsATksCfTQn2N60RlWtnv4Bt%2FxK9TY36WxgJtiFeMJKYDY4t0Iq5nOmJUPXNpYvIy5FmB19XUpN%2FyRfL6mxfessj4%2FB3hW643uhwpTKbsr6%2BlCODV%2F42cleZ33BD3bMJC%2Bg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMmMiI1oZl which looks to be a good way of getting a fused 10A feed from any of the fuse boxes to whatever toys you want to fit. As my current setup is a rats-nest of extra cables clipped / spliced onto existing cables this would be a better way of doing things. The only downside (aside from a lot of work) is that you can't easily fit them back-to-back, though flipping one through 180 degrees would work you can only do that for two feeds next to each other. It would make extracting a fuse simpler though. The only thing lacking is a way of labelling the feeds.