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I think that would be my preference, see how it goes and replace if it gives me trouble again relatively soon.

The maximum weight for your Alphard will be shown on the registration document as revenue weight. It comes from the information on the export certificate. For my 2003 hybrid it is 2435kg. I seem to recall from what I have read it is something like 400-500kg on top of the unloaded weight. The gen 1 hybrid has highest maximum weight of the gen 1models, but it also has the highest base vehicle weight

The "W" after the load number is the maximum speed rating. My thoughts on tyre load / gross vehicle weight would be that: In my JPNZ handbook for the 2008 onwards models, the rating for a 17" tyre, 215/60R17 , is a 97. The door plate on my 2010 Vellfire says 96, so there is a little discrepancy there. A 96 is 710 kg, x 4 gives 2840 kg. A 97 is 730 kg, x 4 gives 2920 kg. It would be reasonable to reckon that Toyota would not give a tyre specification that was borderline to the design limit of the vehicle, but would have some margin in it. I have not found, yet, the actual maximum permissible loaded weight for Alphies. However, I haven't spent hours on it as it's just of academic interest to me, mostly due to the amount of luggage my family insist on, and will be happy to be pointed to actual Toyota issued data, . XL (for Extra Load) are supposed to have stiffer side walls. I also choose these. I can however state from personal experience that the Bridgestone Touranza is pretty jolly garbage in that respect, soft as runny cheese. I had them on my Subaru, never, ever, again.

Me, I would leave it and see if the problem returns!

I agree with Richard, Your leisure battery should be partially isolated from your starter battery, probably by a split relay circuit. There are other advanced circuits that do connect the leisure battery bi-directionally to the starter battery, but I doubt you have one of those. Check your mood lighting, and any other after market gizmos that may have been fitted; ensure they are off or even isolated. In the extreme weather we have experienced lately many starter batteries will fail to start the engine; and will need a full recharge, even if the battery is fundamentally servicable. The cold is a battery killer. How about your alternator, and chance that has failed ? AND, VERY IMPORTANT, check the condition of your battery terminals, at both ends. Any 'corrosion' can have a startling (pun intended) effect on the battery's ability to deliver starting current. Measure the battery voltage across the terminals with a voltmeter. No engine about 12.6, maybe 12,2v. Any lower will be a problem. 10.5v battery has a dead cell. With the engine running the voltage output should be well into 13v and maybe even 14v if the battery is fully discharged and being charged by the alternator

The situation with tyre pressures and conversions is an interesting one. For a rear conversion the weight distribution across the rear will probably not be affected too much; albeit increased somewhat. I run XL tyres. Anyone who has removed the rear seats will know they are far from light. Of course, with a rear conversion you couldn't be carrying any rear passengers or luggage. A lack of say 150kg in lieu of two japanese (sized) passengers, plus potential luggage. However portable gas and water would account for some of this difference. With a side conversion things are a little different. However, I have never measured the weight distribtion of a side conversion, but my guess is it is not as evenely 'balanced' at the rear axle. Perhaps members can offer their opinions.

Do you think its worth replacing the MAF or just see how long the fix lasts?

Thanks everyone for replying and for your advice. I'll take 1 or 2 psi out when I am next near an accurate gauge. I had no idea what the W rating meant. I do now. Re the Park/ Neutral/Drive thoughts. I do, now, remember the other issue that I was told about........when arriving home or at your destination. Put in Neutral for a moment or two, then in Park before shutting down. This would allow the transmission fluid to 'settle down'? Does that make any sense?! Thanks again. Graham

You need to find out what is draining your batteries. If it is just parked up with the fridge turned off, the leisure battery should not be getting drained in a week. Even then, it shouldn't drain the main 12V battery as well.

Just turned over 90,000 in my 02 A10 2.4 Your post is very encouraging 😎

Presumably you have a camper conversion? To really know if the tyres are underrated you need to know the weight of the vehicle now, and when fully loaded. In an ideal world you wouldn't be taking the vehicle over it's stated maximum weight, but life isn't always ideal. 40psi isn't ridiculous for a camper conversion. When stopped in traffic I tend to put the gearbox in park, and apply the handbrake if on a slope. I don't like holding the weight of the car on the gearbox pawl so I use the handbrake, but plenty of people don't bother. I also don't like unnecessarily blinding the driver behind me with my brake lights. Using park rather than neutral has an advantage in my hybrid, but either or would be fine in a non hybrid.

Well, it shouldn't make it worse....... I did ours a couple of months ago when I changed the spark plugs. I don't think it's altered anything for us sadly, even though it was visibly dirty. Ours does run on LPG most of the time.

Hi Graham! Yes, these cars are heavy, but actually not THAT heavy for todays cars, a kerb weight of roughly 1900 kg, from the JPNZ handbook. But the current version of our other car, a Subaru Outback estate, is 1700 kg! Plus - and this is a guesstimate - 500kg for passengers and cargo. The tyre loads are more than enough, 97W is 730 kg, 101W is 825. Only the weight loading cast into the inside of a wheel spoke will tell you if the wheels are under rated. I would be surprised, but nothings impossible! I agree with Roger, 40 on my own car would be a bit high, I usually run 38, not so much different though. Cheers! Nev

£40 That's nearly half a tank of petrol or 50miles in my 3 litre beast.🤣 But.......... At least the EML is still off. I wonder if sorting the MAF out will improve my MPG / GPM.🤔

Hi All. Just wondering if anyone has an idea of the total mileage you can hope for? I have an 03/04 Alphie still in great condition and also still running well. My own total to this point is approx 125 k. Thanks, and happy travelling to all in 2027

HeeHee! Ah well it least there actually was one to download! I do prefer paper, I'm a bit of a Luddite! Cos when I'm working on a boiler (gas engineer so I'm allowed to 😅) a tiny little thing on my phone is not so easy to see at my age and my eyesight! Yes, I know, I can make it bigger! And paper doesn't inadvertently skip 20 pages when I touch the wrong bit of the screen....... Yes, it was all those sheets! Over 600 actual A5 pages! I didn't print it myself, I had my local printers do it and bind it, about £40. Probably cheaper than me buying the ink!

I did think so too, but having been with this garage for decades I tend to defer to their advice. My old front tyres did about 23k with 36psi New fronts are 225/55 R17 101W Rears are 225 /55 R17 97w. I think the old fronts were 97W Thanks and kind regards Graham

My life has always been a long sequence of operator error 🤣. I did have to download the manual and I'm too tight to print it so electronic copy only. Printing a whole manual is pretty impressive, did you need 150 double sided A4 or did you accidentally press multiple copies😁, I've done that. Thanks for your support Bignev, it's much appreciated. I will update whenever I get a solution. Take care Bud.😉

Well, I'm more on the path of working with you, through a lack of clear instructions for an item, rather than the operator error! At least yours, you said, has come with a manual, because I'm personally fed up with "things" coming without the least bit of a printed idea how to fit / wire / use them!! A good example would be the manual for these cars, I'm sad, I had one printed out, about 150 A4 sheets, double sided with 2 pages per side! And read it!! Found a few little things I'd never have discovered in a million years! Like linking the auto seat position to the remote entry button. But anyway, the most important thing is that currently the EML is off 👍

Leave it in drive. The tyre pressure should be on the info plate inside the door jamb. 40 psi is, imho, slighly high. What size wheels and tyres do you have fitted ?

This is the first automatic car I have ever had. Any tips on winter driving please? Especially in snow. Also I have been in the habit of selecting Neutral when waiting at traffic lights and keeping my foot on the brake. The reason being that if left in Drive it feels as if the gearbox is 'hunting' to move off and, to me, it feels as if the clutch is slipping as if it where a manual gearbox. Is this the right thing to do or should I leave it in Drive? On a separate point, tyre pressures. I have had 2 new front tyres a week or so ago. My garage advised that they should be 40 psi all round. Interestingly they commented that the wheels and tyres were underrated for the weight of the vehicle. Ideally it should have been more like large 'transit van' type. Has anyone else come across this? Thanks for the Forums help as always. Graham

Morning Bignev, There is an enter button which takes you immediately to "entering system" with no protocol choice then it fails to connect. I've had a good read of the manual and done some Google searches and found that the jp700 is Japanese car specific and should auto detect which protocol it needs so I'm going to send the feedback to Ancel. I love the fact we are still trying to eliminate operator error. 🤣 the most likely cause. Thanks for your patience. 😁

Morning Owen! Is there an "Enter" button to press when the screen is on the "OBD11" display as tbe picture above? Wonder if that might take it to a screen to choose protocol? Cheers mate! Nev

Thanks for the information, I've updated the software and given it a go this morning but I can't select JOBD as I don't know how to bring it up on a menu. There is not much that can be changed on tool setup but I have tried mertic and imperial to no avail so I've used the feedback button to send the data to Ancel in the hope they can help. But..... The EML is still off.🥳🥳 Thanks Bignev

As it is not being felt via the steering, then the problem has to be at the rear, so the most obvious would be wheel balance or worn rear axle bushes or wheel bearing or buckled wheel