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Cruise Control


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1 hour ago, starider said:

Hi, has anyone fitted Cruise control to their Alphard? If so where did they get the kit from?

 

Hi Starider,

 

I believe Chris.ac has done this but he has a Gen 2.

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Sorry Starider,

 

Perhaps it was Cuttothechase on You tube.

Ldrego on this Forum.

 

If not him, I need to do the hard work myself and remind myself who it was !

 

Sorry to Starider and Chris.

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10 hours ago, starider said:

No problem, no rush,not holding out much hope! Thanks Rojie,

 

I'll try and find some time for this.

 

Chris normally asserts that the wiring in the Alphies is already in place.

 

I have a late Gen 1 with cruise fitted as standard.

So, if Chris is correct, cruise should be retrofitable.

 

I'll do more reading on this.

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I’ve had cruise control fitted retrospectively to my 2007 AWD 3.0 Alphard by Calder Campers based in East Calder, Scotland.  I believe that another company based in Warrington has also done a retro fit to a 3.0 using Toyota parts so it’s something that can be done - depends on what you’re  prepared to pay and whether you want to diy.

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From what I do understand, facelift model gen1 onwards have the wiring and ability to upgrade by just fitting the control stalk - seems like a silly way for toyota to charge more as an option, if everything exists in the ecu already! I think if you have a pre facelift, you need an aftermarket kit as the throttle control is different, I may be wrong, so hopefully some other owners can confirm.

 

short vid - it really is this easy.

 

Edited by Chris.ac
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Thanks Chris, this great.

 

Amayama have the steering stalk switch. 

 

My only concern, similar that of Chris is; is the control box present and the actuator.

88002 on the EPC.

 

If that is all present my guess is that just the switch needs to be fitted.

 

I'd take a good luck at the EPC drawings if I were you.

 

If you do go ahead I can confirm the cruise functions performs very well.

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Every vid I have seen of the facelift 10 series, only ever mentions adding the stalk.

If it was the microwave radar cruise control, then yes, you need the extra emitter and ecu.

 

If you look at the parts list for pre april 2005 alphards (pre facelift) - you will see that the control mechanism is based on mechanical connections to the throttle.

Post april 2005, the throttle is fully electric, so the additional control mechanisms are not required, the stalk literally just sends a signal to the ecu to hold throttle position and adjust to maintain wheel speed.

 

If you wanted to have the auto speed adjust based on distance from vehicle in front, that will require more electronics.

 

 

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Thanks for all the effort you have all put into my question. I need to watch the video a few times to decide if my general vehicle wiring skills are good enough! Where can the relovent parts required be obtained? Again many thanks. Finally I am not sure which generation my 2007 Alphard is.

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3 hours ago, starider said:

Thanks for all the effort you have all put into my question. I need to watch the video a few times to decide if my general vehicle wiring skills are good enough! Where can the relovent parts required be obtained? Again many thanks. Finally I am not sure which generation my 2007 Alphard is.

2007 is facelift model gen 1 (or 10series)

part number for switch is 84632-34011

You can find these for under £15 on ebay, its a generic switch used on many toyota models, if you want a new blanking plate that it pokes through, just widen your search term to include alphard, or you can just cut a hole in the blanking plate yourself if not too bothered, the part number for the cover (again its common to several toyota) is 45186-58020-C0

 

image.png.4c940628a74fd244cf0ce77e9038a254.pngimage.png.9f6cf9752589c879837814bf9148a862.png

Edited by Chris.ac
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The switch arrived yesterday and the video looks reasonably easy. One question, the method of fitting requires the battery negative terminal to be disconnected and the lights to be discharged, all understood, but when reconnected, is that a simple action or do any "funnies" happen?

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Hi Starider,

 

If you disconnect the main battery it is likely the electric windows will be an issue.

 

I just renewed my main battery as it had, before purchase, not been maintained properly (by the dealer during Covid).

 

From the drivers door window pad; the drivers door window was OK, the other three were not.

You may need to fully open and close your windows, one at a time, from their respective door switches.

Ignition on, engine running in my case.

 

That did it for me, everything OK now with the windows.

 

You can just reach the rear power door switches with the doors closed

 

I have read that the moon roof can be affected too.

I haven't checked mine yet. Don't want it stuck open do we ?

 

 

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i didn't disconnect the battery when i fitted an upgraded stalk, that involved complete removal of steering wheel, oops, probably should have though.

 

When I reconnected everything, i had to reset the 'spring' that the wiring loom for the switches is attached to, that involved full lock from left to right and back, that was it.

and clearing the error in the DTC, which would not have happened had i disconnected battery.

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1 hour ago, Chris.ac said:

i didn't disconnect the battery when i fitted an upgraded stalk, that involved complete removal of steering wheel, oops, probably should have though.

 

When I reconnected everything, i had to reset the 'spring' that the wiring loom for the switches is attached to, that involved full lock from left to right and back, that was it.

and clearing the error in the DTC, which would not have happened had i disconnected battery.

 

Just a point to raise regarding not disconnecting the battery and messing with the steering wheel.

 

Not on my Alphie, but on another rather upmarket car I have, my specialist mechanic will always disconnect the battery, "as it it not much fun if the if the airbag triggers".

May not be necessary on an Alphie, but.....

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Hi Chris, a problem with fitting the cruise control switch, everything went fine, soldered the black wire from O/D switch into the black wire in loom,when I tried to push the red from switch into loom plug, it would not push in and the end of the clip broke off in the plug.I can remove the broken bit,but looking into the plug there seems to be a white bar across the socket about half way down, any ideas please?

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is it a blanking pin, or is it a piece of plastic tag that is supposed to 'lock' the pin in place to stop it getting pulled out? can you see through, i.e. is there a actual hole all the way through for the pin to go?

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Sorry Chris missed your reply, I can see right through on either side of the bar. There is a male pin in the socket for a connection. I removed the broken piece of the red push in wire plug and it had only gone in about 8mm before hitting the "bar". There is a bar in all the unused sockets and I am wondering if that's to prevent the wrong plugs being pushed into wrong sockets during manufacture. How about carsfully drilling out the bar?

It looks so easy in the video. Our Alphard is the model which is shown in the video and all the fittings just fell into place on ours so can't see that removing the bar would cause a problem, what do you think? Tony.

Edited by starider
To add text.
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I'm happy to report that a new lead has been fitted to the Cruise Control Stalk and wired in. Reconnected the battery,started the engine, pressed the end of the stalk and the "Cruise" indicator on the dash lit up. Re-activated the electric windows and went for a test drive on the A30 [never seen so much holiday traffic], it all works as it should.

I didn't drill out the plastic bar as I was concerned that the drill could wander off and damage the dividing plastic between each metal push in plug and causing major problems. I think anyone who attempts to fit the C.Stalk would need to come up with a considered method of removal. I would not want to be responsible for giving advice on this. It is possible that other Alphards like ours may not have the bar in the socket,it certainly wasn't mentioned in the video.

My only comment is to make sure you get it right first time! I couldn't get just the cable, so had to pay another £11-50 for the kit. Not a vast amount and at least it all works OK.

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