The Flower Man

thats brilliant! thanks so much for that. Mr Rojie, i second that. Its so hard to find even basic info what has helped alot is a scan tool i bought the other day. my basic obd scanner would not recognise the ios protocal and as a very basic scan tool is so restricting to what you can access,i bit the bullet and paid £250 for one that works. xtool ps701 pro. what a difference! The tool lets me access every area including gearbox recalibration. airbag reset ect. live data on every area. it realy gives you an idear of whats going on and a head start on anything that may go wrong in the future. with a workshop manual i can feel confident in taking anything on. thanks again Thesvn.

Hello all! I have just had to change the inner cv joint on my Toyota Alphard ahn20 but cant find the torque figure for the drive shaft /hub nut. can anyone help me with this please?

Hello Chris ac , yes its an Anh20-8****** with the 2AZ-FE engine. thanks for the above. i will do some printing i recon! This afternoon i had another go at working out what was going on . still no joy but did rule things out which is always a positive! I removed the aftermarket Garax system and put the plugs back into factory position. Apart from the expected, loosing the indicator flash, nothing elce happened which ruled out any mistakes in the wiring of the aftermarket system. I had a google (other search engines are available) and found that people had problems with reversed polarity on upgraded hdd bulbs which it does have but as far as i can make out they are 35w 6000k Philips but oem replacement. If this bulb had a reversed polarity would this really swap main beam with full beam?

Hello Alphard people! I have discovered a small but funny problem which the mot man (who will not be named) completely missed! The headlight alignment on main beam was a bit high so finding a wall ,i set up some markers so i could get them in a ruff but better angle for now. setting a line up level with the center of the bulb as the horizon i got in the drivers seat and switched the main beam on. to my surprise the headlight line was 10mm ish below the horizon line which is where it should be. confused as the beam angle was that high ,i could tell the eye color of the on coming driver, i got out to check my height measurements leaving the main beam on only to realize it was the full beam bulb lit🙃 what s happened is ,led indicator bulbs have been put in and a blinker unit (Garax winker position kit) has been added but a mistake has been made reversing the full and the main beam. i have no idea what colors to look for as i don t have the Alphard color codes or the ones for this unit. the kit plugs in to the harness but there are wires that have been spliced. if anyone can give me some pointers, i would greatly appreciate it!

Tick over problem solved! The vent pipe to the pcv valve had cracks in the end of it. I have seen kits that do the two vent pipes and the pcv valve as a package.if your Alphard is getting on in age ,i would check these pipes for cracks if you have hunting or low tick over issues for now i replaced the silly sprung wire clip with a wide jubilee clip. this has closed the cracks in the pipe and i have a steady tick over. in fact its now better than its ever been since i bought the car.

A little update. When i removed the pcv valve the end of it was a bit crusty, in want of a better word! I cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and the spring and tapered valve arrangement is free moving and closed by the spring but not tightly. As i don't have a good one to compare it with, i cant rule it out as i dont know how critical the spring pressure is. I did notice a new thing the other day that i forgot to mention. once the engine auto choke has kicked out i have had a very slow tickover of about 450rpm. I left it to tick over and the computer razed the rpm to the correct level. I may be wrong but it seems like its running lean which must be an air leak ,because of it running fine with the auto choke kicked in ect. just came back from a 50 mile run and dropped into tesco on the way back. was in there 10 mins max so started her up on a warm engine. she started straight away but then dropped down to 450rpm (no auto choke) the computer pulled the revs up again and she drove normally. A weak spring in the pcv could cause a weak mixture i suppose. i will go over the inlet ,air cleaner box ect and check for split hoses tomorrow.,

Yes understood, like all these things, as it is quite a cheap part its a good thing to replace and rule out. I removed the pcv valve from my 2.4 today. It is located on my engine ,screwed into the rocker cover (back left as you face the front of the car) It has a rubber hose attached to it with a squeeze together retaining clip (cant remember the proper word) you can remove the rubber hose by hand. The pcv valve its self is 22mm. you will need a 22mm deep socket to remove it. It is in on thread locker but not done up tight as this is an aluminum rocker cover so go easy when you tighten it back up. i need to find the torque spec for this...... Rojie. thanks for that. very helpful as i have the first number but the second one is very difficult to read The first number i have on my pcv valve is 12204 This is worth a try as well if you have the 3.0l . They all have these valves and i would put money on the chance that they share the same pcv valve for the same size engine across the model range, after all its the same basic engine by the look of things.

i am having the same problem but there is a lot of them on eBay. I dont know how you view this market place. best to find the uk supplier through ebay as well because it can save time looking. If i find a place in my searches that supplies them i will give you a shout.👍

one fog lamp and one reverse lamp is all that is required for an mot. i am thinking of loosing a reverse lamp and putting a red led bulb in its place. All the light lenses on the back of my Alphard are white anyway. we know this is fine in an mot because if you have a high level brake light in the spoiler at the back of your Alphard, you will find it has a clear lens from the factory fit. It is interesting what you say about the fog light not interfering with other lighting systems. Technically it wouldn't. as you have explained it, the reverse light is overriding the fog light and not the other way round. I am sure there is no requirement to have an operating fog light while reversing 🙃 The operation of a reverse light has to happen via the gear selecter which it will. i cant see why it would fail going buy the mot guide lines. Its all open to interpretation but a fog lamp can be independantly wired to the rest of the car so it may say "interfering" because of bad wiring using power from another light and dimming it or sharing an earth that dims everything.

Thanks for posting this. yes oil changes are important but seem to be much more important on Toyota engines which is fine if you have had control of this in the first place. cleaning using oil cleaners ,i can see working or though the idea of it is not great for me. The engine in mine has done 76,000 and is propper clean with all fluids new and no leaks at all. I cant see any reason that the previous owner would neglect oil changes but look after everything else The recommended service intervals for the pcv valve is 30,000 ish and some makes recommend you change this with the plugs. researching more it seems the pcv valve stuck open does indeed draw out engine oil and burn it. i need to rule this out. Also i have to say that the clip is American and i don't know if there were differences in ring design in other Toyota models made in America?

I am just going to jump in hear as i have the same issue with my 2.4l mk2 which i have owned for only 6 weeks. in that time i have covered 1000 miles and it has used one and a half liters of oil which in my book is excessive. I have been under the car today to check that i am not loosing oil and the underside is completely clean . It was the first time i felt sad about not finding a leak! I realize the piston ring recall was for the American market due to the rings that were fitted ,blocking with carbon and getting jammed ,letting oil past. There is no signs of head gasket problems. no usage of coolant at all. no overheating, slug in the oil, misfire on start up, over pressurized in the water system ect ect so in my case a pcv valve jammed open may well be the problem too. Has anyone had this problem and resolved it by changing the pcv valve?

That's great. I will have a look in there tomorrow. I have relays from old cars from the past and may even have a match. I really like the led reflector/fog lights that are replacing the factory reflectors in the bumper. These are the ones that are £100 ? Not each?😯 less wiring involved (easier) and keep two reverse lights. not that i can see anything out the back of mine ,even in the day light........

Does anyone have details or a part number for the rear fog light relay that fits the factory location at all? Also would it be useful for me to take photos while i do the speedo dial as i don't know if anyone has done this already?

chris ac. you are a star. thanks for that. Its exactly what i was looking for!👍

Thats great, thanks for that. Yes understood about the switch. i am planning to locate the switch in one of the blank positions on the right of the steering wheel but i would like to take the switch off the wiring loom feed for the stalk so i am on the factory wiring and illuminate the rear fog light indicator on the dash. Is there a way of identifying these wires ie are they blanked off? I have to remove the dials next week to convert from kms to mph as this hasn't been done and i don't want to use a chip or touch the clock readings at all so i might as well do the fog light properly while i am in there.