Djakninn

Finally got time to look into my broken mid hinge on my sliding offside door. I have a new hinge and new rear door stop/moulding in hand. I thought once i had the moulding off that the middle hinge had enough space there to simply slide the broken unit out. As with anything with these Alphards, it doesn't seem to be the case. How is the mid hinge removed?

So do you mean pull the moulding towards the rear of the car while trying to rotate it down at the same time?

Having to replace the rear door middle door rail hinge as the pin snapped on it. It's been a sample enough job so far, but how is the Rear slide rail moulding removed. Looking at the parts catalogue it looks like it snaps into place. I gave it a gentle go but i get a little movement and nothing else. Obviously i don't want to break anything, so is there a knack to removing the moulding?

Ok, i was cleaning the Alphard after working away for 2 months. One of the rear seats was in the upwards position so that the wife could get shopping in and the other was in the normal position. I wanted to move the seat (NS) to the upwards position so i could clean the carpet, however, the seat would not slide forwards or backwards. I then lowered the seat on the other side (OS), clicked it into place and raised the back rest, and that seat will also not slide? Anyone ideas as to what the problem could be. The seats were working fine before i left. The only thing i know that happened when i was away, was that the wife ran the battery down. I didn't think that the locking mechanisms were electric, but mentioning just in case

Any update on this? With the new battery installed does the key fob still operate the doors correctly?

I got mine working, but it was ages ago and shortly after the picture died. It turned out that it was the flip down screen at fault, so i chucked it and replaced it with an alpine unit, which in truth turned out better as the kids can change the dvd themselves and also with Alpines IR headsets we don't have to suffer the sound of what they are watching.

See this thread : It's not so much the HU thats the problem, it's the connectors and harnesses required if you want it all to work correctly. I bought all my stuff through CarAudioExpress.co.uk and picked up a Pioneer HU through EBAY. It's not cheap to do it correctly, you will be looking at a fair layout excluding the HU - depends if you want everything working factory like i suppose.

Thanks again Alex : )

Apart from the strainer itself, the strainer gasket and oil, are there any other gaskets or that required to complete this job. Was having a look at the schematics and nothing was jumping out at me - but want to be certain.

Did you ever manage to get this sorted out David?

Thanks Alex - Yeah, what a chew to get a headlight out! I can pop one of the Volvo ones out in seconds. Is there any official diagrams showing all the bolt positions?

I use Pace Ward which look to be a bit cheaper than Mark Richards, for me at least. Although it's not just the price, PW have a very good rep should there be an accident, and as long as you declare a mod, they will replace it like for like should there be an accident. They're very popular with the Evo lads!

Alex, i'll be tackling this soon, do the wheel arch liners need to be removed to get the bumper off?

This is what i posted that works. I put this up for a fellow forum member and it worked for them too. I don't know though if these steps work for non-toyota transponders, hence why i bought Toyota FObs off the bloke on Ebay, anyways, you could give this a try (This is for the FOBS, not the KEY): Follow this to the 'T' and it should work no problem with the smart fobs to open and close the doors (It looks convoluted, but worked for me on 1st attempt) Before starting make sure you have no mobile phone in your possession/close by. 1. Sit in the drivers seat - Driver door open, key out of ignition 2. Within 5 seconds, place key in ignition and take it out x 2 (Do not turn key) 3. Within 40 Seconds, close the drivers door and open x 2 4. Put key back in ignition (Do not turn key) and take it out 5. Within 40 Seconds, close the drivers door and open x 2 6. Key back in ignition and leave it in 7. Close drivers door 8. Turn key in ignition (Without starting car) 9. Turn key back and take key out of the ignition (The door locks should automatically do a cycle - If nothing happens, you've done something wrong and will have to restart the re-programming again from the start) Once the door locks have did their cycle : 10. Within 40 seconds press lock and unlock buttons on fob together for 2 secoonds 11. Then press lock button on fob for 2 seconds (The door locks should do a cycle again, if they do not complete a cycle, repeat step 10 and 11 again. If the door locks cycle twice, it also means that the re-programming has failed so repeat steps 10 and 11 again)

You could just use the key and a separate remote : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-alphard-noah-estima-SMART-LOCK-fob-2005-to-2008-key/282849166668?hash=item41db1fc54c:g:zngAAOSwAhVahT4Z I bought one from this bloke and programmed it no problem. I think a key from Toyota is mega bucks unfortunately.