pipsyp

We have a rear converted Alphard AH10 with a Drivelodge pop top. We wanted ours this way as we wanted to retain a factory 2nd row of seating (we have 3 kids) and it also serves as our 2nd car (primarily my daily driver). So bar the lack of a boot it serves (most of the time) as a regular 5 seat minivan. In this format getting in and out of the pop top is easy as the 2nd row serves as the step to get in and out, though you still have to lift yourself in. I also concur, I think the space is about right for one adult or two children, though more so it serves to provide nice standing headroom when parked up. Car parks are definitely a bit of an issue. With the pop top it puts it about 6ft 10" high which is about the limit of most car parks. Many do sign this conservatively (i.e. you can easily get in and out without problems) but it's very trial and error (and could be very expensive if you get it wrong). For example my local Morrisons has an underground car park which has a 6ft 10 limit, but it goes in and out of there with no issues at all. The multi storey for our nearest shopping centre however it definitely wouldnt get in and out of there so we've never tried. Basically whilst it makes them alot more usable, it comes with that disadvantage. Otherwise though to drive it around, it's perfectly quiet and you wouldn't know it had one and can't imagine it does much to affect the Alphards refinement.

Cheers chaps appreciate the responses. I'm probably being picky but 70-odd for a used one seems a bit strong (though probably the going rate as they aren't exactly common now!). Excellent point with Amayama, I used them recently to get some new washer nozzles and was very impressed....might pay just to get a new one from them at some point. Certainly not desperate for it, as have two remote keys with the door opening buttons, but being able to open the tailgate remotely (currently have to do it by hand, unless using the switch inside) would be nice!

Hi All, I have keyless but my vehicle never came with the smart fob. I have an electric tailgate so trying to source a good condition one with the boot opening button if anyone happens to have one spare they might be prepared to part with. I have looked on eBay but can't find much if anything. Prepared to pay sensible money for it and cover P&P Cheers Paul

I didn't fit it, but I have a Pioneer double DIN with wireless android auto/Carplay, Bluetooth and DAB in mine. As long as it's fitted correctly, you can keep factory steering wheel controls and rear view camera. Can run into a few complications if you have front cameras, upgraded speaker system with external amp etc. Having removed mine to replace a DAB antenna following a windscreen replacement, I can't say I would have fancied fitting it (lots of wires!). Each to their own but I'd personally take it to a decent car audio place and get them to advise and quote.

Looking at it I reckon you'll be looking at bumper, grille, front slam panel (if it's damaged). The bonnet is probably salvagable. You've popped your rad as well. That said the pictures do only show so much. It can definitely be fixed, but most insurers will run a mile mainly due to the complications of sourcing parts and working with repairers that would be prepared to undertake the repairs (whilst Alphards have been in the UK for a good many years, the insurers and repairers don't have lots of form fixing them up when this happens - sad but true). Your best bet is to fight the insurer to give you some form of non-loss payout on the vehicle, particularly if it's not your fault/can be claimed on a 3rd party on the basis that it's clearly not damaged to the extent to be a write off, but they can't assist in processing a claim. Basically they sign a cheque for an amount (usually nothing like the value of the vehicle but would go some way to cover repair costs) you keep the vehicle as is and the vehicle doesn't get written off. You then take that money and put towards the repair. Depends on the insurer and who you deal with I guess, but most would come to some sort of compromise like this if you make enough of a nuisance of yourself. Otherwise, get the vehicle to a trusted body shop to be assessed so you know exactly what parts it will need, then endeavour to source what you need from breakers (there are JDM breakers out there, even those that concentrate on vehicles like Alphards), filling the blanks with companies like Anamaya in Japan (they source parts from dealers in Japan and UAE and ship to the UK....not always cheap but they tend to be able to get the things no one else can). Using new genuine parts factoring in painting and labour you are sadly looking at a good few K (maybe 3 or 4, perhaps more) to repair that lot. That said, if they are prepared to offer you a decent price for the vehicle to write it off, consider going down that route if you really don't fancy the work required to get the thing put back together.

I concur, 5w30 fully synth. 1 year/8-10k miles between services is ok. I believe the official intervals are less (maybe 6 monthly/5k miles), but with oil being far better now than it was back then it's arguably unnecessary. Use good oil and keep the levels good you shouldn't have any problems.

It's entirely possible (through converter cables) to retain rear camera and steering controls. I have a Pioneer Android Auto/Carplay system in mine and the factory camera and steering controls all work as you'd expect. The wiring on these is relatively complicated because of all the AV features these cars tend to come with (particularly if you have one of the factory upgraded speaker systems) but it's all entirely doable with the right cabling and knowhow. Worst case take it to a decent audio installer and get them to sort for you, might be worth the spend for all the hassle it might present otherwise.

I believe when the battery goes, normally the drivers window works but has to be opened and closed fully to enable the auto function. None of the other windows will work from the driver's panel. You have to open and close each window from its own switch, the drivers control will then work again for that window. If the drivers window isn't working, sounds like a fuse, or possibly a failed regulator (hopefully the former).

A lovely Alphie that, New Dawn do a nice rear conversion (v similar to mine). Someone will bite at that price I am sure. Best of luck and sorry you are being forced to sell.

Thanks for this dezufo, I am going to get some of these in due course from Amayama as they aren't too expensive even with shipping. Actually a brilliant little resource for sourcing parts. I messed up one of my washer jets trying to adjust them at the weekend so I have ordered some replacements from these guys to test Amayama out!

Mine has a Pioneer EVO64-DAB installed in it, I assume professionally before I bought it and everything works (reversing cam, steering controls etc). Completely down to how it's been wired up. DAB is a bit of a funny one as the main route/least invasive means to getting it is a screen mounted foil antenna. They are fine but they tend not to work that well in areas of poor coverage. Mine works fine, but bizarrely despite living in a fairly built up area DAB reception outside my house isn't very good and so the radio doesn't work well at all when on my driveway, picking up stations only occasionally. You can get roof mounted antennas which have a bit more gain and tend to work better but tends to resort in drilling into bodywork etc.

Mine is installed under the bonnet behind the main battery, was done professionally and has been absolutely fine, though it's a 2.4, 3.0 certainly a bit less room. Agreed though, I suspect it's mounted on a custom made/3rd party mount.

No worries! Honestly intrigued to see if it gives you great service, as I expect if it stays reliable it'll be pretty epic! I do hope it does 👍

Please do not take this the wrong way at all, but I'm not so sure a 20 year old petrol hybrid (and a very quirky JDM vehicle at that) with 175k kms was an ideal candidate for reliable, big-mile courier work. TBF it is a Toyota and far more often than not they are the paragon of reliability, but it is one complicated bit of kit. I'm aware the battery inverter for example (and they do fail) costs in excess of $7k it it fails, as it would need to be sourced from Toyota (and probably from Japan). A regular 2.4 or 3.0 arguably would have made a better option. I applaud you buying it and putting your faith in it though, be interesting to see how it works out for you. Also suggest just driving it exactly as it's intended. When pulled up to a stop, put it in Park, or assuming it has a Neutral, put it in Neutral and use the parking footbrake. I believe these things have CVT gearboxes, so unlike a regular auto box that would have a parking pawl (a bolt on an actuator that locks the gears and prevents forward or backward motion), I don't know that CVT gearboxes have a similar thing. I do know that if a regular auto is hit when in park, due to the parking pawl the gearbox will almost certainly be destroyed, but its a risk you take to stop the thing rolling away somewhere I guess. The foot handbrake on these things from experience is excellent but I'm not sure I'd want to rely on it solely to keep the van in it's current location.

D2R bulbs are Xenons. The R denotes use with reflector type headlamps which yours will be. D2S are for use in Projector style lamps. Your car is pre facelift, not 100% certain but pretty sure AFS only came on facelift cars from 2005 onwards. You can tell AFS equipped vehicles as they have projector style (glass lens that the bulb sits behind) dipped beams. Again may be the case that very low grade/spec Alphards may have come with halogen headlamps, but I've personally never seen one without Xenons of some kind. Think they are easy enough to fit, but may be a bit less space behind the bulkhead on the 3.0 (I have a 2.4 so is quite a bit of space). Just be careful not to touch the bulb glass when installing, also make sure that the ignition is off and the lights are not turned on. Better still disconnect the battery and leave the vehicle a while before doing so if you have the confidence to do so. The ballasts on Xenon lights 'ignite' the bulbs by supplying them with 10's of thousands of volts so getting it wrong whilst there is charge in the ballasts can be very dangerous. If in doubt best to leave it to a professional (take it to a local trusted garage or worst case Halfords).

Yeah it shouldn't do that, they all come on with unlock/door open and go out after about 30 seconds, unless manually turned on at the dash. Not some and some. Sounds like some wiring/earthing issue possibly. Most garages struggle with electrical issues, worst case it might pay to cut to the chase and find a decent mobile auto electrician to take a look for you.

I believe the non AFS (reflector type) are D2R (the R for reflector). The AFS are projectors so use D2S. There are D3 and D4 variants, but these are non mercury bulbs, and require less energy to fire up which I suspect wouldn't be compatible with/damage the ballasts on the earlier cars (AH10 at least).

Thanks all, just the weatherstrip that sits on the window has gone quite hard and curled up at the ends......probably beyond saving. The rear ones aren't actually much better 😔 My mate looks after it and tends to have no trouble getting parts for it through the main dealer he uses so might be something I look at in the New Year.

Interesting thread. I opted to put Texaco 99 in my 2.4 today, normally I'd just use their E10. Only downside is that their Supreme (at my local garage at least) was alot more expensive (c. 20p/litre more) but it will be interesting to see how it does. I do alot of A to B driving in mine, it is also camper converted (so a bit heavier) and I reckon it does between 220 and 260 miles before the fuel light comes on, dependent on weather and how it's driven. Strangely, I've noticed almost immediately it seems to run smoother and there's a bit more go over E10, whereas I honestly wasn't expecting to notice anything. If it gives a few more miles per tank I may stick to it.

Just refilled, had about 1/8th of a tank left, fuel light hadn't come on but was probably about to. Got just under 58l into it, so about 12l left in it. I think we can universally say the reserve on these things is pretty big (perhaps about 15%).

Wowsers!!

Welcome Kerryn and enjoy!

Thanks Rojie, I looked but it's hard to tell from the diagrams what's what

GLWT, that is very cheap given the mileage and that it is converted. Be surprised if someone doesn't rip your hand off for it!

Bit late to the party but my early 2008 2.4 AS had a rear view mirror. I removed it as whilst it was quite useful, asthetically I didnt like it and had a rear view camera anyway. So long as you have the right tools (notably the right size sockets, one of which has to be long reach to get to some of the bolts) it's actually not too bad a job to do, fiddly but not bad. I think it probably took me 30/40 mins to get it removed and all back together. Breaking trim clips on the boot trim is the biggest risk. Rear end looks far tidier without it, you'll just be left with a small half moon hole where the arm used to be. There are blanking covers you can get for them but they are like moon dust! As to the front wing unit, mine is in excellent condition but I find it as good as useless for helping with parking anyway, the minute it gets slightly dirty you can't see much out of it anyways. Perhaps I'm not using it properly I don't know 😆 I'd get it removed if it wasn't a quirky JDM trinket and I could be bothered to go to the cost of the bodywork involved to delete it. I expect you could source a replacement through Toyota (probably won't be cheap) or on eBay (though may be no better than what you have and/or need painting).