smurf

You need diagnostics that are capable of reading JOBD, or Techstream and a minivci cable. Most garages aren't going to have the equipment to read any codes on a Japanese market only vehicle sadly.

Have the codes been read from the car? ABS is a system, not a code. Without diagnostic codes you will be wasting money throwing parts at the vehicle.

What are the codes, and what prompted the new parts?

Did the garage manage to read and clear the codes? If so, what was the fault code for the ABS?

Providing a paper copy of the emissions test is a requirement when it has failed on emissions. It could have failed on a number of different emission requirements so it makes it difficult to determine what the issue actually is without the report. A marginal fail could possibly be resolved with an "Italian tune up" or one of the catalyst cleaning products, but a bad fail may point towards component failure. Without the information, it is just guess work.

Thanks Gareth. That is an option I hadn't considered

Thanks. I had spotted those on eBay (although it is 20% rather than 25%) but I scrolled on by because there was no mention of anything to back up the claims they are stronger. I might get in contact with them to see if they have the information to confirm the extra capacity, but the manufacturers in Sheffield may well be cheaper without a middleman. Wherever they are coming from it seems unlikely that anyone is buying in significant enough numbers to get a big discount.

Hi @pcous. Would you be willing to share the design spec for the springs? I'd love to get a proper uprating on my camper, but it seems difficult to find someone willing/able to do it. In absence of that, a decent set of springs made to the specification of a proper engineer would give me a bit more piece of mind that I'm not overloading the rear end.

Thanks for showing this. I'm sure it would be easy enough on the ground with the use of additional jacks to help with lowering the beam, but obviously a lift is ideal. As an aside, you have also shown the method for renewing the rear springs as well.

The exhaust is visibility moving, and the noise sounds like the exhaust is tapping against something or a loose heat shield, if it has heat shields anywhere.

Not a clue as I haven't run it on. I would assume 40mpg is achievable based upon 31 on LPG. Mine is full camper conversion and I rarely push above 60mph on the motorway.

I'm getting 31mpg on a long motorway run on a gen 1 hybrid running LPG

Did they give the print out from the emissions test with the readings on?

An issue you may come up against by fitting a 15mm spacer is whether there is enough thread available on the studs for the bolts to engage. Have you investigated other Toyota's of the same era? It is likely that compatible wheels were fitted to other big Toyota/Lexus cars of the same time as manufacturers love to standardise sizes, and the wheels might be plentiful if they were UK spec cars.

I've got techstream, but if there was one of the secret button dance procedures it would save me the hassle of waiting for techstream to come alive.

Does anyone know how to program a new gen 1 door fob like the one in the opening post?

Have you tired contacting this seller on eBay? From their listings it looks like they have broken a hybrid Alphard. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/nipponautospares?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uJUhQDGBSfe&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

10 miles should be plenty to get some heat into the engine. A compression test is easy, and cheap.

Using for lots of short journeys, or occasionally for longer trips? The reason lots short trips can cause it in winter is water vapour condenses in the breather pipes when they are cold and doesn't get evaporated again by the heat from the engine, then it builds up and emulsifiers with the oil vapours. Excessive oil vapours will also accelerate this mayo building up. That is why the engine needs testing to be sure.

Mayo in breather pipes can be caused by lots of short journeys in the colder months. Does this sound like your journeys? I'd suggest a compression or blow by test be done before condemning the engine.

The cables seem to be a bit of minefield with no guaranteed way of getting a "good" one. Price seems to be no guarantee of sucess. I bought one from Amazon and tried it on two different computers, one in a virtual machine and one directly on Windows Vista, and on both it had an update time of 11 seconds and kept dropping comms when getting data. That one is going back to Amazon and I've ordered a V2.0.4 lead from AliExpress to see if that is any better. In terms of getting a copy of techstream that isn't rammed full of malware, this is the best method of getting a virtual machine with techstream inside it. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

Sounds like the inverter is overheating, but without some diagnostic information being taken from the car it is impossible to say for sure. If the inverter is overheating the possible culprit is the inverter coolant pump.

That must be a different manual to what I bought. There is several hundred pages of information on absolutely everything, and all the wiring diagrams in English.

I've sent you a PM about it

Is the info just a few posts above any help to you? Sounds like it could be the same situation that might have a similar solution.