smurf

There are universal cruise control kits available for around £300, but then there is the installation cost on top of it if you aren't able to do it yourself.

Is there a sub code to go with P3120? This will give a more specific area to investigate. i.e. the original fault on this thread had a code of P3220-541. It was the 541 that nails the problem to a particular fault. If you get the full code then a quick Google of it will probably give you an idea where the fault lies. You may well get loads of results for the gen1 Prius, but the tech is broadly the same.

The "problem" is that there are recalls listed, but they don't have the information on whether the recalls were done. If you want to cross reference the recalls on the CarVX report with whether they were done in Japan, put your chassis number into this Toyota Japan page and it will tell you if they are completed or not. If you use Chrome, it can translate it from Japanese for you. You will probably find any recalls that were required whilst the vehicle was still in Japan will have been done. https://www.toyota.co.jp/recall-search/dc/search

Found this Google review that gives a good idea of what the underside of an Alphard looks like when Krown do it. KROWN Rustproofing https://www.google.com/maps/reviews/data=!4m8!14m7!1m6!2m5!1sChdDSUhNMG9nS0VJQ0FnSUM1NGNHNWl3RRAB!2m1!1s0x0:0xb27a4c34b878b5b2!3m1!1s2@1:CIHM0ogKEICAgIC54cG5iwE|CgwI4PGqqQYQyPDOvQM|?hl=en-US&source=sh%2Fx%2Fkp%2Flocal%2Fm1%2F0&kgs=42e711282be636a4

These people used to get rave reviews in the classic car world. I haven't used them personally, so it isn't a recommendation. https://www.krown.co.uk/

The mess of wiring sounds like a km to miles converter. These are known to cause all sorts of canbus issues when they fail. It might be possible to just remove it to see if that is the issue. Obviously, without it everything will then measure and record/display KM.

I suppose like any used part, it has had a life before you purchase it and you know nothing about that life generally. We are slightly better off in the UK as at least there have been quite a number of the hybrids imported, and there are a few specialists now cropping up that will happily work on them, so we probably wouldn't have to buy an unknown used inverter from Japan as they are available locally. That brings a level of protection against buying a duff one.

I don't think that is the inverter that Michael is talking about. That is the inverter for the in car 100VAC supply to the sockets. The £5k inverter is in the engine bay and handles all the power going between the motor/generators and the hybrid battery.

I tried googling it and although I found a few other people getting the same fault I didn't find a solution. I decided to try completely deleting the whole virtual machine and starting again, and now I can't get the registration to work when set to Japan. I don't recall any particular issue when I installed it all the first time and I'm getting to the point of giving up, as it is just a PITA messing around with it to get nowhere.

Thanks @pcous. Some good information there, and certainly food for thought.

I have got it and I'm still getting similar faults with it dropping out on certain ECUs. I haven't got to the bottom of why yet. The fact I am getting the same fault with very different leads suggests the issue is with my setup.

The windows probably just need resetting. I'm sure the procedure is on here somewhere, but it is something like winding all the way down and holding the switch, and then the same back up. Once that is done they should work from the driver's door again, but double check the procedure. The fact this has happened points towards a problem with 12V battery, and it may have upset the rear door controls as well. There is possibly another reset procedure for the rear door to allow normal operation again.

I don't know about locking the doors without setting the alarm, but none of the tents on a campsite will be locked so maybe just leaving it unlocked overnight is the simplest solution? Failing that, a short pole to reach to the lock button?

You need diagnostics that are capable of reading JOBD, or Techstream and a minivci cable. Most garages aren't going to have the equipment to read any codes on a Japanese market only vehicle sadly.

Have the codes been read from the car? ABS is a system, not a code. Without diagnostic codes you will be wasting money throwing parts at the vehicle.

What are the codes, and what prompted the new parts?

Did the garage manage to read and clear the codes? If so, what was the fault code for the ABS?

Providing a paper copy of the emissions test is a requirement when it has failed on emissions. It could have failed on a number of different emission requirements so it makes it difficult to determine what the issue actually is without the report. A marginal fail could possibly be resolved with an "Italian tune up" or one of the catalyst cleaning products, but a bad fail may point towards component failure. Without the information, it is just guess work.

Thanks Gareth. That is an option I hadn't considered

Thanks. I had spotted those on eBay (although it is 20% rather than 25%) but I scrolled on by because there was no mention of anything to back up the claims they are stronger. I might get in contact with them to see if they have the information to confirm the extra capacity, but the manufacturers in Sheffield may well be cheaper without a middleman. Wherever they are coming from it seems unlikely that anyone is buying in significant enough numbers to get a big discount.

Hi @pcous. Would you be willing to share the design spec for the springs? I'd love to get a proper uprating on my camper, but it seems difficult to find someone willing/able to do it. In absence of that, a decent set of springs made to the specification of a proper engineer would give me a bit more piece of mind that I'm not overloading the rear end.

Thanks for showing this. I'm sure it would be easy enough on the ground with the use of additional jacks to help with lowering the beam, but obviously a lift is ideal. As an aside, you have also shown the method for renewing the rear springs as well.

The exhaust is visibility moving, and the noise sounds like the exhaust is tapping against something or a loose heat shield, if it has heat shields anywhere.

Not a clue as I haven't run it on. I would assume 40mpg is achievable based upon 31 on LPG. Mine is full camper conversion and I rarely push above 60mph on the motorway.

I'm getting 31mpg on a long motorway run on a gen 1 hybrid running LPG