smurf

It operates the parking brake on the rear wheels in the same way as a handbrake does. It is just the method of operation that is different.

The side doors have a soft close motor, regardless of whether they are power doors or manual only, so this might be the sound you are hearing? Basically, it is so you don't have to slam the doors to get them to close, you just gently pull them shut and the motor pulls it tight. There is also the same on the boot lid. As regards the engine rust, the vehicle is nearly 20 years and will have been through many heat cycles and wet weather. A bit of surface rust is to be expected on steel that has been subject to the elements over a long period and is nothing to be concerned about. Likewise, oxidation on on aluminium is no big deal.

I have a tow bar on a 2003 and it doesn't set the sonar detectors off. The detectors are so insensitive that they can barely detect a wall that is just a few short inches away 🤣

That looks like a something on or around a big end bearing has seized and then been rejected out via the sump. Nothing much can be done to avoid that other than ensuring regular oil and filter changes are done, and with these cars not always coming with any service history from Japan we are just hoping they were as well maintained as they appear to be from their general condition.

On the hybrid there is a 1500W inverter taking power from the hybrid battery for the 100V outlets. A US market kettle that is under 1500W should work fine. Everything else probably is just a matter of finding an adapter that works. If you are handy with electrics, or know someone that is, you could get a Japanese/US two pin plug and connect it to an appropriate UK socket with a short length of flex. Obviously you'd have to make sure that nobody comes along and thinks this is 240V outlet and starts plugging everything into it. Also, be aware you have no earth via this system. I note you have called your vehicle the Eco Pioneer, which suggests you have a vehicle from Campervanco? If so, why not just buy a stovetop kettle and use the induction hob instead?

I've replied to your PM 👍

I did originally intend to fit a rail that would be hidden by the pop top, and it would certainly have been cheaper and simpler to fit, but I liked the idea of being able to use the rail without the pop top being up.

I bought it from here. I searched high and low, and this was the only place I could find that was selling it in a single 3M length, and in black. Delivery is quite expensive at £18 because of the length. https://batteriesandsolar.co.uk/products/flexible-awning-track-black-3m-g512bk?fbclid=IwAR2yAVt2117vou5OC3n_MIH_rnSaIsyKCppsGMuwk4aspPWEgK0zRa1fis8

I recently fitted an awning rail by removing the gutter cover and fitting the rail in it's place. It is held in place with adhesive mostly, and a single self tapper on the leading edge.

There are universal cruise control kits available for around £300, but then there is the installation cost on top of it if you aren't able to do it yourself.

Is there a sub code to go with P3120? This will give a more specific area to investigate. i.e. the original fault on this thread had a code of P3220-541. It was the 541 that nails the problem to a particular fault. If you get the full code then a quick Google of it will probably give you an idea where the fault lies. You may well get loads of results for the gen1 Prius, but the tech is broadly the same.

The "problem" is that there are recalls listed, but they don't have the information on whether the recalls were done. If you want to cross reference the recalls on the CarVX report with whether they were done in Japan, put your chassis number into this Toyota Japan page and it will tell you if they are completed or not. If you use Chrome, it can translate it from Japanese for you. You will probably find any recalls that were required whilst the vehicle was still in Japan will have been done. https://www.toyota.co.jp/recall-search/dc/search

Found this Google review that gives a good idea of what the underside of an Alphard looks like when Krown do it. KROWN Rustproofing https://www.google.com/maps/reviews/data=!4m8!14m7!1m6!2m5!1sChdDSUhNMG9nS0VJQ0FnSUM1NGNHNWl3RRAB!2m1!1s0x0:0xb27a4c34b878b5b2!3m1!1s2@1:CIHM0ogKEICAgIC54cG5iwE|CgwI4PGqqQYQyPDOvQM|?hl=en-US&source=sh%2Fx%2Fkp%2Flocal%2Fm1%2F0&kgs=42e711282be636a4

These people used to get rave reviews in the classic car world. I haven't used them personally, so it isn't a recommendation. https://www.krown.co.uk/

The mess of wiring sounds like a km to miles converter. These are known to cause all sorts of canbus issues when they fail. It might be possible to just remove it to see if that is the issue. Obviously, without it everything will then measure and record/display KM.

I suppose like any used part, it has had a life before you purchase it and you know nothing about that life generally. We are slightly better off in the UK as at least there have been quite a number of the hybrids imported, and there are a few specialists now cropping up that will happily work on them, so we probably wouldn't have to buy an unknown used inverter from Japan as they are available locally. That brings a level of protection against buying a duff one.

I don't think that is the inverter that Michael is talking about. That is the inverter for the in car 100VAC supply to the sockets. The £5k inverter is in the engine bay and handles all the power going between the motor/generators and the hybrid battery.

I tried googling it and although I found a few other people getting the same fault I didn't find a solution. I decided to try completely deleting the whole virtual machine and starting again, and now I can't get the registration to work when set to Japan. I don't recall any particular issue when I installed it all the first time and I'm getting to the point of giving up, as it is just a PITA messing around with it to get nowhere.

Thanks @pcous. Some good information there, and certainly food for thought.

I have got it and I'm still getting similar faults with it dropping out on certain ECUs. I haven't got to the bottom of why yet. The fact I am getting the same fault with very different leads suggests the issue is with my setup.

The windows probably just need resetting. I'm sure the procedure is on here somewhere, but it is something like winding all the way down and holding the switch, and then the same back up. Once that is done they should work from the driver's door again, but double check the procedure. The fact this has happened points towards a problem with 12V battery, and it may have upset the rear door controls as well. There is possibly another reset procedure for the rear door to allow normal operation again.

I don't know about locking the doors without setting the alarm, but none of the tents on a campsite will be locked so maybe just leaving it unlocked overnight is the simplest solution? Failing that, a short pole to reach to the lock button?

You need diagnostics that are capable of reading JOBD, or Techstream and a minivci cable. Most garages aren't going to have the equipment to read any codes on a Japanese market only vehicle sadly.

Have the codes been read from the car? ABS is a system, not a code. Without diagnostic codes you will be wasting money throwing parts at the vehicle.

What are the codes, and what prompted the new parts?