BigNev

Wooho, blooming fantastic!!

I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for you mate! Yes I'm with you both, no logic to my reason just old fashioned gut feeling. Turn it over with the crank pully nut a couple of times, maybe spark plugs out if its too tough. Then start it up and get it up to full temperature, with the heater on full heat, whilst checking on coolant levels and for any little weeps. Then drop out that oil into a clean pan so you can check it!

Woh thats seriously heavy money!! I'd do the same as you on that then!!

Are original Toyota ones still available? I'm just wondering about the potential extra cost of them, against the possibly much earlier failure of pattern parts.... But if the heavy duty ones you've ordered for this time are from a good source, I'd certainly hope they'd be up to the task 🤞 or maybe even better than original!

I changed ours when we got it for Apec Red, from my local autofactors. Very happy with the stopping power. Did you have any concerns about yours with that brand? The Apec Blue were the old "Brakefit" subsidiary which were a bit cheaper, but still good stuff, had them on our Subaru Outback 3.0.

Absolutely disgusting! Thank you for the heads up on that company.

The battery condition is where I was heading. If there's enough energy to click the solenoid, but not turn it over, then I too would suspect battery. Unless the solenoid is sticking and the extra oomph of the booster overcomes this - clutching at straws there!! In theory the new one should have been well charged. From personal experience I did not say fully charged. But yes indeed it should have had enough to wind it over at least a little bit.

When it doesn't crank, is there a "clunk" anywhere in the vicinity of the starter motor? As in, is the starter solenoid pulling in but the motor isn't winding it over. Or is it silent? You may need an assistant for that.

If there is no sound, you need a washer motor. it is not a difficult job at all. Wheel off, wheel arch liner screws removed, liner bent out of way, then remove the bottom pump (water will spill out!!) with a twist on the rubber grommet, disconnect the plug and hose, reconnect, and replace, simple!

Marvellous!!

You need to fault code read it, may just be a knock sensor, or more involved. You could try a cheap reader as it will probably get those codes, well worth under a tenner off a well known auction site!

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

I would err on a battery too, voltage can be fine, but not the amps. And they're what crank the engine. If it really is that old, it's done blooming well!!!

These may help with it. Is there any chance whatever the key is in could be reducing its signal strength at all?

Ditto the JPNZ Owner manual - VERY useful!