BigNev

Yep, I've had a car with those, I think it may have been a 2007 Ford Galaxy, but that would be at least 8 years ago, so I'm not definite. Take one wiper off and go into your local Autofactors, or car spares shop, they will be able to sort you out. If they can't they're total rubbish !!!

Can the connector fittings be taken off the old ones and put on the new?

Hi John, Ah that's a good thing hey, yes it got very hot, but not disastrously so. That low oil won't have helped a lot. My apologies for covering basic stuff, I acknowledge you've been working on cars all your life, like me! But sometimes I get too focused in one direction. The oil level will rise when hot, if it's anywhere between min and max when cold, that's sound. Checking it after a drive should be left long enough for the oil to drop back into the sump. Opinions differ, mine is roughly 5 to 10 minutes. Quite a major question here now - is the air con on, or the airflow/temp set to Auto? As of course that will bring the fan on. Now it's been turning over in the back of my mind, as Chris raised, if the stat is stuck partially open, it would lead to a longer warm up, but depending on the length of that, could possibly also restrict flow enough when it's hot. But I would have reckoned not so much at a stop / go situation. Unless of course the fan was on from the moving, and only became audible when you stopped. As the other guys have said, have you managed to check if the coolant expansion reservoir has coolant in it? And a nice pink colour? And do your best to see what condition the front of the radiator is in, with a torch from the front of the car. Of course the Air Con condenser coil is in the way..... If it's got muck blocking the airflow through both coils (far less likely with your mileage, and in general the condition cars seem to be from Japan), or the coils are in a poor state, then that will be a factor. I don't know if there are 1 or 2 fans on yours, if it's 2, are they both working? If the rad check out OK, (if it doesn't they seem to be easily available), then a new stat, with a coolant change (check on this but Toyota Pink Long Life Coolant!) and oil / filter change, by one of those mobile mechanics, and you can chat to him about the car while he does it - I would !! I'm a tradesman, gas & heating, and like it when people are interested in what I'm doing for them. I'm a bit odd, I don't bother one bit if they watch what I do! Because I talk too much, I just carry on chatting while I work. I even have "Nev The GAS man" on my van number plates..... Like you, heavy work for a lot of years, now getting worn out, great hey! Cheers, Nev

Hi John! If the engine was slow to warm up, the thermostat would be open, or partly, as it isn't shut to stop the flow from the engine until it is warm. That would NOT lead to an overheat situation. When you say overheat, do you mean the temperature gauge goes right up to the top? As an aside, I don't think - my opinion - it was a taxi, as I reckon it would be MUCH higher mileage if it was. I'm sadly with you on the arthritis condition, genetics from my dad, still mostly able to do stuff, but starting to be a bit restricted. And yeah, too many garages don't really know their posterior from their elbow, but will happily take your money for a "diagnostic" visit, which usually tells you sod all. Because physical faults aren't detectable by digital communications. I don't think an overdrive is a possibility, that's an extra function of a gearbox, major mods to something that was never supposed to have the extra drive ratio. Cheers, Nev

Cracking!! Got a result, marvellous! And yeah very fancy upgrade! I hope you also managed to get the part numbers for the discs for the future! The front discs are vented on the standard ones, but that caliper, from what little I could see of it, is definitely not!! I guess it's a multi piston solid caliper, am I right?

My standard kit!

OOH!!! Twin opposed piston solid caliper - very definitely upgraded!! And VENTED rear discs too!! On that note, I would absolutely be looking at your front brakes - I'd bet they are not standard!! Single piston sliding caliper is the standard on the front, as well as the back!

Also, while you've got it that far, maybe take the discs off and measure those too? Then you'll have the information forthe future, when you need them!

Ooh heck! Ah well, can be sorted! Before now, a long time ago on an import Impreza, back in 2000, I took thepads out, and drew round them, and went into the autofactors. Easily sorted for someone behind the counter assuming they can be bothered!

Without knowing the PCD of them, no, not a chance of anyone knowing!! The ET (offset of the wheel centreline) is also important, so they don't stick out too far, or too far in and foul the calipers. Cheers, Nev

Hi there! I have recently changed the rear pads (myself) on our 2010 Vellfire, and I bought APEC PAD1334 from our local autofactors, which cross references to the part number on those you have pictured, and they fitted nicely. So I would second Teds suggestion that if they don't, then your calipers have been changed prior to your ownership. Cheers, Nev

Hi there! When I changed our cabin filter, the one I got was a Blueprint ADT32522, I've just looked and they are listed as "activated carbon" type. The button is for the Pollen Filter function. The description from the JPNZ manual - which I would highly recommend for you, reads - "Airflow mode will change to internal circulation directed at upper body and filter pollen from the air. After approximately 3 minutes the filtration will be complete and the system will return to the setting before the button was pressed. To stop the function earlier press again." There is a manual on ebay this afternoon when I checked. Cheers, Nev

I'm loving the colour of yours!! Cheers, Nev

Yep, well quite probably anyway, Amayama!

Hi Gary, Firstly have you checked the condition of your existing calipers? And a good fluid bleed. Making sure they aren't sticking at all? And quality pads. A swap to 2 piston calipers / carriers from Lexus / Rav4 is possible, but needs 328mm discs. It won't give you a huge increase in stopping power, so I'd absolutely suggest you make sure your original calipers are as good as they can be first. Cheers, Nev

Hi there Golom696!! I can second the scenario Gamith said, but I didn't even have reset the window auto function, I was possibly lucky! I think the head units are not "coded" as it would not seem to be not such a problem in their home market, far less theiving toe rags in Japan!!

Is the original poster still here / interested? Or have you sorted it?

Have you had it long? What were the symptoms leading up to this point?

Also, ours doesn't pick up the satellites on this side of the world, we just get a plain blue screen with an arrow on it looking lost and forlorn 😀 Maybe I've just not bothered enough to figure it out, but it would be years out of date, and not at all likely to have UK maps if I did! Cheers, Nev

It'll depend on just how fastidious you are, for the few chips on ours, I wasn't too bothered for the roof, only VERY tall people see that 🤣

Hi there! The colour code is on the door pillar name plate, passenger side. I got a touch up bottle kit, paint and lacquer, from ebay. Then later I got aerosol paint too, primer / base / pearl / lacquer. Lots of suppliers out there for paint thankfully! Cheers, Nev

Hiya Martyn! I got a Lexus 17" space saver for ours, we've got an LPG tank underneath as you have! The bolt PCD is 114.3 x 5, very common Toyota and Lexus, and a good many others too. If you went for an alloy wheel, the design will affect what offset, the ET number, will fit, to clear the caliper. Cheers! Nev

Yep that's right, 20 series spare is underneath!

Definitely no space below the floor carpet on ours. Flat floor. Our LPG tank is underslung below it. There is a small pocket area at the bottom left when looking into the boot, and it is small. Above this is the pocket where the jack and wheel brace hide. Cheers, Nev

🤔 A picture paints a thousand words!!!