BigNev

In theory it will be on the Gen 2, too, that's where mine is, same year as yours @Hecktangle Hope you're enjoying it!

Plus one! That company do know their stuff. And at 4 volts, it's deader than the Parrot form the Parrot sketch, if you're old enough...... If not, from the Monty Python team I believe it was.

Ooh yes, rather gorgeous! And rare as rocking horse poop as you say, I think I've seen 2 others total, over the couple of years we were looking for one, but they weren't the spec we were after, very sadly.

Harrumph, we get 20 to 25, 😆 lol!!

Cheers fella!

Hi Laura, we insured ours with Admiral, via Confused comparison site.

Hi Martyn! Aha, well the good news is you don't need an LPG garage! Easy one first - try some fuel system cleaner in the petrol tank. Many products are available, but I have used Cataclean in the past. If you go with that one the full bottle is poured in with around a quarter of a tank, don't put it in with more, it can't do the job properly. Then take it for a good drive. Another is Millers Petrol Power Ecomax, I use that for the octane boost property, in the Vellfire and our Subaru ( it's the 3.0 H6 so likes high octane too like these 3.0s and 3.5s). That's a 500ml bottle but it will treat up to 500 litres. Or much higher levels for a clean up. Millers do a diesel treatment too, 500ml again, and our local diesel injection specialist company said it works when I took my previous van in to them, they saw it in the van. It makes their job easier apparently, and they can tell the difference when they strip injectors. It wasn't sales patter, they didn't sell it!! That was 20 years ago, and I've been using it since. Many will say they are "snake oil", but I reckon it does work, by no scientific research just "feel" of the engine and "seat of the pants" driving. Doesn't feel quite as smooth if I've run without it for a few fill ups, usually 10 gallons. Not tank fulls, the van takes 100 litres!!! PLEASE come back and let us know how you get on! If you get a good result then it's information for the whole forum!

Hi there! 300 miles!!!!!!! Ooh I'm jealous of such range 😂 On our LPG tank anyway, it's usually about 260 the way my wife drives it....... But if we were on a trip I'd never manage that far without a coffee and leg stretch stop anyway, it's my age!!

Hi there! Asking the obvious starter - does it ONLY do this when on LPG? Because if it does it on petrol, then it's not the LPG systems fault! If it's only on gas, then yes the LPG system needs looking at. It's actually not too common, as the LPG ecu follows the petrol ecu for the injection, with the necessary adjustments for the different fuel. So if it was set properly when it was fitted, it shouldn't go off. However, if the system is old, with many miles, the injectors do not last forever, and filters do need changing.

For the size, is the tyre information plate still on your drivers door pillar?

Hi there @Wozzer100uk! Mine is a different year so I can't confirm the size (other than it's the same as on my nameplate). M+S is a "winter" type tyre, Mud + Snow. V is the speed rating, plenty at 149mph. On the load rating, that's the 95, which is 690kg. That's tethnically a bit under for a car that is possibly 2500kg loaded. But - I had some XL, which is Extra Load, with more than enough load rating, Bridgestone Touranza tyres on my Subaru Outback. The XL is supposedly better sidewall strength, which were as soft as cheese spread, rubbish. And damaged easily from potholes, from personal experience unfortunately. Over the last 13 years I have used a "no name" brand a lot, as they came 3 times on wheel / tyre sets, for 2 Grand Voyagers, the Subaru, and now our Vellfire. My wife does not hang about in it, it's her daily car, 24 miles each way, and she's not shy of corners. Including our motorway off slip road which is a nice fast corner..... They're Accelera, have a very strong sidewall, brilliant good grip wet and dry, don't aquaplane. I guess nowadays most don't- but the first time it happened it was a squeaky moment hitting a puddle on the motorway. And they are cheap. Yes they do wear out faster. But I used to have "Brand Confidence" as lots of us do, till I tried them, and only driving them will convince anyone otherwise. I went back to the Bridgestone as we were touring Scotland - very misplaced judgement call, they were a mistake. Had them on an Impreza WRX from 2000 to 2012, the Potenza model, they were awesome back then. Things change, different model, different profit margins to make....

It's an absolute doddle. Little bit of thrutching to get hands on the connector behind the nearside rear plastic panel inside the boot, I think I unbolted part of it for ease. Unplug the connector, and insert the new device in between those. It has factory compatible plugs.

I agree, they are very good! I've had a couple of parts from them, on separate occasions, they give options of delivery company for speed / price. I avoided DHL, as a while ago they charged heavily (£18) for them to make an import VAT payment, from the UAE, that wasn't due as it was under the threshold. But you don't get your bits if you don't pay it, you upset tbe supplier, and you won't get a refund, humbug. I don't recall which company I did use from Amayama, but it was 5 days to my door, and no messing about! I'll post it if I find it later! Found it - EMS International

Hi Paul! Yes, it is working correctly. It should motor open with the overhead button, and the button on the remote, but the switch in the tailgate itself unlocks it (and the other doors) but doesn't activate the motor to open. And the tiny little one just to the right of it will lock the car, if the fob is on you and in range. There is however, on Ali express, a wiring loom addition that will make it do that, motor open from the button - I bought one! Search "Automatic opening tailgate module Toyota Alphard", different module cover different years. Simply plugs in to the wiring behind the covers on the nearside rear pillar!

I'm right there with you on that! 😀

Very good of you to come back and let us all know the solution! Far too many people on forums just never return to pass on the information, or even to simply say "yes that was it!", to help others, but are more than happy to use others time and effort for free to help themselves. I do realise not everyone gets a solution though!

Yep it is pretty difficult make out clearly hey. Give it another try, may get a clearer line if you're lucky! This is the wording from my Subaru handbook, which has a standard automatic transmission and dipstick - 1 - Drive the vehicle several miles to raise the temperature of the transmission fluid up to normal operating temperature; 70 to 80degress C is normal (on my Subaru!) 2 - Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. 3 - First shift the selector lever in each position. Then shift it in the "P" position, and run the engine at idle speed. 4 - Pull out the dipstick and check the level on the gauge. If it is below the lower level on the "HOT" range, add the recommended automatic transmission fluid up to the upper level. I'll add a picture of the page too! It says although it can be checked cold, Subaru recommend checking when the fluid is at operating temperature. As have every automatic vehicle I've had.

Ah, the test is only valid with the engine running, cold or hot. So that the fluid is circulating through the torque converter, not sat at the bottom of the auto box.

Hi Paul! Yes, indeed, on the levels and limits! On the first cold reading you did, was the engine running? If not that will explain why it's so high!

Hi Gordon! I really can't think why they are concerned about the job, it's not as difficult as it is on the later ones, just standard work, and I am not a professional mechanic! Shame you're a bit too far away, or I'd come and give you a hand to do the job yourself!

Hi Paul! You're absolutely welcome! It is strange the way it's done, bemused me when I first discovered it many moons ago! On the later versions it is indeed far more difficult, involving reading fluid temperatures and an "overflow" fluid height tube in the bottom of the transmission pan, bit of an unnecessary change in my grumpy opinion! But on a traditional one, way better! The COLD level reads between 1 and 2 for min / max, and HOT is between 3 and 4 for min / max again. Yep, I would agree with you that a 20 minute drive, at this time of year and ambient temperature, should have the fluid up to normal working temperature. Cheers, Nev

Hi @Gamith Did you know that the engine has to be running when checking the auto transmission fluid level? Run though all gear positions, slowly, a couple of times, then check the level. The two dip stick marks are minimun and maximum, for hot and cold, same as for engine oil. The accurate one is the hot one. Yes there is that much expansion when it's hot!! Cheers fellas!

Unfortunately not. Ours initially would default on starting to that "lost position" sat nav screen, but after using the wonders of Google translate camera on phones, over the various options screens, to set the phone connection and other stuff, it has stayed on the screen above - if that's where we had it last.

Hi there and welcome on your first post! I see from your profile you have been a reader here for quite a while ! If this is the screen you want, then then bottom row second from right button brings it, and keeps there, on ours.