BigNev

Hi there! Perhaps a picture of the one you do have would help? To avoid any confusion in description. Cheers, Nev

Aha!! Excellent! Would that be Electronic Throttle Control? I was on the right path, brownie points to me 😃 I'm constantly amazed how dumb some people are, who are supposed to do "the subject" for a job- how the hell could a gearbox problem stop an engine revving?? If it was in limp mode it would still rev to some extent. It would rev if the gearbox wasn't there!! And timing belt - your 3.5 doesn't have one!! But regardless, if it did, and slipped, if it ran it would rev.

So does that mean your battery was flat, then you jump started it? If it started, the immobiliser is not your problem. Some more background details could be useful! It's possible the jump start has spiked some circuit, and we'll assume it was connected correctly so there wasn't a 24 volt supply created - or there could be a few components that will not have liked that. I'm fairly sure there is a fuse box behind there, but you may need to remove the box to get at it, I think you squeeze in the 2 lugs, and unlatch the little damper on the outside left. Good luck! Cheers, Nev

Or also the motor for the throttle actuator?

Has it been jump started, and maybe it's blown a main fuse?

Blooming marvellous!! You are most welcome! 😃

Does that black plastic cover pull off? If so, it could look like my lpg filler, standard UK nozzle.

Will it rev with the accelerator pedal, out of gear? If not, suspect the throttle position sensor.

That's a reasonable idea, if the one that was fitted was known.... It seems quite likely, from the pictures of the rear of the unit, in aftermarket adverts I've seen, to be a choice of 2, when taking into account the connections for the amplifier system for the Theatre sound system etc under the passenger seat. Those adverts never cover the one I've got, but try to lead you to believe that with various adapters it will work.... Others experience on here says otherwise! And of course, we don't know if that amplifier has been bypassed by the fitting of the current head unit, only investigation by David will discover this!

🤣 Absolutely jolly marvellous mate!! It's a result! Sharing experience and knowledge is a rewarding thing in my book!

Hmm, not totally sure this is the right one, but it gives the idea.

Hi Chris I can show you what I bought, but it may be different to yours, I don't know! But we know a man who can, hey! I haven't used the piston seals, they were very lovely and free moving by hand, so I left well enough alone! Also, interestingly, the pad shims are shown as 2 pieces per pad.

Hi Dave! I don't know why they are different, but it is usual for sliding calipers. My guess as to why the L2 rubber is missing would be it was distorted or otherwise damaged, somehow, so would bind if it was fitted. I have had this happen to me on our Subaru. I left it out and it was fine, but I'm sure it is there for a purpose! So, and I must qualify that I am not a professional, especially as this is brakes, on my own vehicle - I would put it back together in the way it has been for the previous 7 years, using the correct caliper slide pin grease - NOT COPPERSLIP - it will probably bind up, yes that was the Subaru too. Yes, we always used it, but something has moved on and it is no longer the stuff for the job. Then locate the correct part on Amayama and swap it when it comes. I recently did this for our Vellfire calipers, they came as a pack of the piston seals, sliding pin boots, bleed nipple caps, banjo bolt washers, and the little rubbers for the pins I actually wanted, for £12!! I bought new slider pins too as they were only £2.40 each! Arrived in 10 days! Cheers, Nev

Wow! I'd say a blooming fantastic price!

Hi there! That job appears to not be one for the faint hearted regarding wiring and electrical work! There are a few threads covering people's adventures with it. Especially on the theatre sound with the 18 speakers, the original system has LOTS of features that the aftermarket look to not have included. In my case, I'm not brave enough to delve in, but Google translate is our friend! And we're now getting used to where most buttons are, and do, on the sub menus. The phone will Bluetooth stream music to it, and hands free telephone. We have a separate sat nav, and being not so young we don't really have a great need of other apps on the car rather than our phones. However I do appreciate many people like the modern appearance, and enjoy the challenge

As long as the shims cover the area of contact, between the pistons on one side and the caliper metal on the other, they should do their job. Do make sure you use the two different correct greases, for metal contact parts, and the slider pins parts. Not copper grease. I only learned that relatively recently!

Obviously I agree with you guys, as I did that too!

For mine, same engine / transmission as yours, the filter can be this Blueprint option, ADT32137, came with the gasket, or equivalent, and the fluid is the Toyota ATF WS, for World Standard apparently.

Hi there! For what it's worth, with the number of codes you seem to be getting, I would hazard a guess that it's actually very possible to be a wiring loom, or wiring connection, fault somewhere. Or the connections to the 12v battery. Fault codes are often generated when the electrical resistance, or voltage, from a component goes out of the expected range. So if there is something that is causing this, the computer thinks the item is faulty - not the wiring to it. Water damaged cars are a good example, they can come up with "problems" a while after they dry out, and replacing the parts does not solve it.

I think it's brilliant!! 😀

Hi Graham! Yes, the 2.3 is in bar. I guess they're from the door plate, like most cars!

Top one isn't original kit, so could be absolutely anything that has been added to the car over its life, and may, or may not, still be on the car !!! Apart from the toll card payment device 😁!

That seems very reasonable to me😃 I don't know personally, but that engine goes in lots of models, so I just had a quick look on ebay against the engine type, and there's plenty of options coming up.

Hey up James, how are you? If only TC went that extra little step like you! I've not read the comments below the video yet, but did you leave a hint on it? Help him out a bit 😄

Hi Alan! Fully synthetic. I use the brand from my local autofactors, that the manufacturer lists to meet the specification for my engine type, the 2GR-FE. For the weight they say 5W-30, and I choose to use this as it's available in a 20 litre drum, because I change oil in all my vehicles far more often than routine! According to the JPNZ manual, yours, the 2AZ- FE engine, says "0W-20 is the optimum oil for this vehicle" But - 5W-30, and 10W-30, are listed too. As usual there is the little chart with ambient temperature and oil weights, but all of them are good down to at least -20°C and up to over 40°C. However, for mine the JPNZ says 5W-20 and I use 5W-30, so..... your choice!