BigNev

Hi Mark! As an experiment, before going for crank, turn the key to the ON position for a couple of seconds, twice, so the fuel pump fully pressurises the lines, then go for the start up. See if it helps at all! Cheers, Nev

Hi there Carolyn! Yes you can fit it, it's a doddle for anyone remotely handy. Also, check your local autofactors, you will be able to get them from there, and should be a good price. But then I got a pair of D4S from Aliexpress for £15, by Sukioto from Japan, and they've been in and working since September, all through winter, every early morning on my wife's drive to work. PLEASE do not go to ANY garage for that job!!! Cheers, Nev

I guess @Nicol forgot to update this thread sadly.

Cracking job there!!!

Yes ours has the footwell lights, but just one colour, kind of amber, and the door mounted puddle lights. But not the door cubby ones! As you say, get the company who you bought it from to sort those fog lights!

Was there a lid for the fuse box, as normal practice is the circuits are identified on that.

A very cheap plugin one is available on ebay, or similar, under a tenner. I have one and it does read our Vellfire. Search for Obd2 WiFi reader Mine is an ELM327, but there's lots quite similar.

Yes, you need a code reader!

HAHA OF COURSE!! Thanks @smurf ! Mine is also 2435kg gross, from the export certificate, and 2050 net. My clan will have to pack a lot lighter in future 😂🤣

The "W" after the load number is the maximum speed rating. My thoughts on tyre load / gross vehicle weight would be that: In my JPNZ handbook for the 2008 onwards models, the rating for a 17" tyre, 215/60R17 , is a 97. The door plate on my 2010 Vellfire says 96, so there is a little discrepancy there. A 96 is 710 kg, x 4 gives 2840 kg. A 97 is 730 kg, x 4 gives 2920 kg. It would be reasonable to reckon that Toyota would not give a tyre specification that was borderline to the design limit of the vehicle, but would have some margin in it. I have not found, yet, the actual maximum permissible loaded weight for Alphies. However, I haven't spent hours on it as it's just of academic interest to me, mostly due to the amount of luggage my family insist on, and will be happy to be pointed to actual Toyota issued data, . XL (for Extra Load) are supposed to have stiffer side walls. I also choose these. I can however state from personal experience that the Bridgestone Touranza is pretty jolly garbage in that respect, soft as runny cheese. I had them on my Subaru, never, ever, again.

Me, I would leave it and see if the problem returns!

Well, it shouldn't make it worse....... I did ours a couple of months ago when I changed the spark plugs. I don't think it's altered anything for us sadly, even though it was visibly dirty. Ours does run on LPG most of the time.

Hi Graham! Yes, these cars are heavy, but actually not THAT heavy for todays cars, a kerb weight of roughly 1900 kg, from the JPNZ handbook. But the current version of our other car, a Subaru Outback estate, is 1700 kg! Plus - and this is a guesstimate - 500kg for passengers and cargo. The tyre loads are more than enough, 97W is 730 kg, 101W is 825. Only the weight loading cast into the inside of a wheel spoke will tell you if the wheels are under rated. I would be surprised, but nothings impossible! I agree with Roger, 40 on my own car would be a bit high, I usually run 38, not so much different though. Cheers! Nev

HeeHee! Ah well it least there actually was one to download! I do prefer paper, I'm a bit of a Luddite! Cos when I'm working on a boiler (gas engineer so I'm allowed to 😅) a tiny little thing on my phone is not so easy to see at my age and my eyesight! Yes, I know, I can make it bigger! And paper doesn't inadvertently skip 20 pages when I touch the wrong bit of the screen....... Yes, it was all those sheets! Over 600 actual A5 pages! I didn't print it myself, I had my local printers do it and bind it, about £40. Probably cheaper than me buying the ink!

Well, I'm more on the path of working with you, through a lack of clear instructions for an item, rather than the operator error! At least yours, you said, has come with a manual, because I'm personally fed up with "things" coming without the least bit of a printed idea how to fit / wire / use them!! A good example would be the manual for these cars, I'm sad, I had one printed out, about 150 A4 sheets, double sided with 2 pages per side! And read it!! Found a few little things I'd never have discovered in a million years! Like linking the auto seat position to the remote entry button. But anyway, the most important thing is that currently the EML is off 👍

Morning Owen! Is there an "Enter" button to press when the screen is on the "OBD11" display as tbe picture above? Wonder if that might take it to a screen to choose protocol? Cheers mate! Nev

I read you say not tyre balance, but have YOU had the rears double checked?

Quite simply, that's because you can't. But to really dilute that old stuff - what Steve said.

Ah, right then , on the screen with the OBD11 option, if you can select JOBD it should, in theory, connect up. Fingers crossed!!

No worries pal! On the initial start up, does the machine give a menu or option to select the "protocol" for communication? It might be just totally automatic, but may not 🤷

Blooming marvellous result mate! Wish I could help on the reason it won't talk to your Alphie. I'm sure you did, but was tbe sequence: Plug in tbe connector to the old port See what comes up on the diagnostic screen Turn to ignition on but not start My dirt cheap Bluetooth reader will connect to our 2010, for quite a few readings, but won't even recognise its plugged in to my Renault!!

Spot on!

I always used to use copperslip too, till I discovered that there are now 2 different types of grease specifically for brake applications. One for non moving parts, the piston to the back of the pads, and one for the sliding parts, the pins, end of pads to caliper etc. Copper slip caused the sliders to bind up on my Subaru calipers, that never ever used to happen!!

A little more detail on the technique - do NOT remove the wiper blade! Thereby keeping the metal off the glass!

A top tip I was given to remove wiper arms - loosen and remove the nut, press DOWN firmly, but not hard, on the arm, near to the wiper end, to release the grip on the splines, pull arm off! It's worked for me many times, I hope it does for you!!