BigNev

I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for you mate! Yes I'm with you both, no logic to my reason just old fashioned gut feeling. Turn it over with the crank pully nut a couple of times, maybe spark plugs out if its too tough. Then start it up and get it up to full temperature, with the heater on full heat, whilst checking on coolant levels and for any little weeps. Then drop out that oil into a clean pan so you can check it!

Woh thats seriously heavy money!! I'd do the same as you on that then!!

Are original Toyota ones still available? I'm just wondering about the potential extra cost of them, against the possibly much earlier failure of pattern parts.... But if the heavy duty ones you've ordered for this time are from a good source, I'd certainly hope they'd be up to the task 🤞 or maybe even better than original!

I changed ours when we got it for Apec Red, from my local autofactors. Very happy with the stopping power. Did you have any concerns about yours with that brand? The Apec Blue were the old "Brakefit" subsidiary which were a bit cheaper, but still good stuff, had them on our Subaru Outback 3.0.

Absolutely disgusting! Thank you for the heads up on that company.

The battery condition is where I was heading. If there's enough energy to click the solenoid, but not turn it over, then I too would suspect battery. Unless the solenoid is sticking and the extra oomph of the booster overcomes this - clutching at straws there!! In theory the new one should have been well charged. From personal experience I did not say fully charged. But yes indeed it should have had enough to wind it over at least a little bit.

When it doesn't crank, is there a "clunk" anywhere in the vicinity of the starter motor? As in, is the starter solenoid pulling in but the motor isn't winding it over. Or is it silent? You may need an assistant for that.

If there is no sound, you need a washer motor. it is not a difficult job at all. Wheel off, wheel arch liner screws removed, liner bent out of way, then remove the bottom pump (water will spill out!!) with a twist on the rubber grommet, disconnect the plug and hose, reconnect, and replace, simple!

Marvellous!!

You need to fault code read it, may just be a knock sensor, or more involved. You could try a cheap reader as it will probably get those codes, well worth under a tenner off a well known auction site!

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

I would err on a battery too, voltage can be fine, but not the amps. And they're what crank the engine. If it really is that old, it's done blooming well!!!

These may help with it. Is there any chance whatever the key is in could be reducing its signal strength at all?

Ditto the JPNZ Owner manual - VERY useful!

Hi there! Ours was 3 years in the UK with its one previous owner, one owner in Japan, we've had it a mere 4 months, but loving it. We too had Galaxy's, and Grand Voyagers, this is far and above a better car. Parts - so far, 🤞, the very few I've needed (front brakes and rear washer motor) - haven't been a problem for my local autofactors. And the Amayama site is great for bits I wanted (but didn't need!) Cheers! Nev

Ooh you're getting me envious 😄

Hi guys! An obvious reason for the consumption would be the type of driving youre doing. Lots of round town, stop start ? Ours dropped to a dreadful 19mpg, but recently, with my wife back at work, and a 20 mile drive, even with her "lead wellies" heavy accelerator foot, it's up to 25. Just done a drive to North Wales and me driving, and it appears to be up to 28, still not exactly frugal, but it is on LPG at least.

And don't forget - that 8.6 litres would be for a full strip down. It will likely be half that for a drain and fill fluid change. My 2010 3.5 took a bit under 4 litres, after all the "excess" dribbled out following the procedure for mine, which is not necessarily the same for yours.

Smashing! Nice job finding that!

It's Tayna, not Tanya, and yes they are good.

Hi there! Yep, either Tayna batteries in Bodelwyddan, North Wales, or Advanced Battery Supplies in Stockport. Both great places, I have used them both personally, and delivery is fast. On both websites, with the battery size code from the one you have, (or if it doesn't have a sticker on it then the physical size and post arrangement). you'll be able to choose from a selection of them with varying amp hour ratings and cost.

Hi guys, whilst I don't have a Hybrid, I'm interested in the differences on the "standard" Panasonic 12v battery, obviously a very special thing, to say current "Stop Start" types nowadays, does anyone know this? I'm possibly interested enough so that next time I'm passing my local battery specialists, Advanced Battery Supplies in Stockport, I'll probably pop in!

Hi there! Have you checked to see if you're lucky, and it's in the seat back pocket of the rear row drivers side seat?

Hi there! Have you still got the old plugs, to swap back in, in case you've got some fakes in the engine now?

Hi there! My guess is the battery is dying. Voltage is not a full indicator of its condition. Poor electrical health will cause lots of strange electrical communication faults on "new" cars. And my other guess, on the low charge voltage when running, is that it had just been fully charged off the car, so the charging system may have "thought" it was good, so not pulling in the alternator. Could well be wrong on that. If you try it again, then put the lights and all other electrical kit on, it should make the alternator work - or not - then you'll have a bit more info. I've got an old battery from my work van, still holds a good voltage, but when tested its cranking amps are down at 550 from the rated 900. Still plenty enough for tests and a standby jump start for most cars though!