BigNev

Hi guys! At last, we have bought one! Local private sale in Manchester, 2010 3.5 V6, 126,000 km, and it's already been converted to LPG by the one UK owner, which is great as we would have done it! I've had to compromise a little on the service history, but the oil is very clean, and it's clean alloy inside the oil filler cap, so it's clearly been well looked after. Sound Car VX report. One owner in Japan, one fastidious owner for 3 years in the UK. For the price I'm very happy so far. The wheels aren't to my taste, and I'm changing them tomorrow for a set I took off our Grand Voyager.

Yes, that's what I thought! The secondary smaller one. Our Impreza had one, as does our current Subaru Outback. Really good to know, as we have a branch not far away at all from us!

Check your coolant level in the radiator!

Looks sweet that mate! From your comment that price included a new catalytic converter!

Thanks for that, we have a local importer who is very good too, but that's not what I'm asking you guys for!

Hi guys! Hope you are all well! I'm still looking (and procrastinating on it!) for our Alphard / Vellfire, 3.5 V6, 2009 onwards. Looking for a bit of "voice of reason" input from you guys who've got one - am I being too hung up on wanting one with the service history from Japan? I realise it's possibly "luck of the draw" if the books are put in the vehicle before the auction, and lots do not have any documentation, but some do. I also am led to believe that the Japanese do look after their cars way better than the British, and their bi-annual test is tighter than our MOT, it seems advisories are not accepted, they get fixed. Until the departure from Japan of course - I've seen a few of you have replaced lots of suspension bushes either on, or shortly after, the cars arrival. But that isn't service of fluids, oils and filters. If we were only keeping it for a short time I would be less bothered, but it will be a long term car. Our current (about to go) Grand Voyager we've had for 10 years, now 148,000 miles, and the Subaru Outback 5 1/2 years, now 173,000 miles, so you see what I mean. Both of these are 2005 cars. And for us, it's a large financial commitment, so I don't want to buy a time bomb or money pit - V6 cam chains and tensioners, and the variable valve lift / timing oil solenoids, would rely on fresh oil for a long life! Cheers Guys and girls!

Absolutely cracking mate! Yes, not every problem has a complicated solution!

AHA! Hopefully you've discovered the source of the problem! Earth connections are so important, especially nowadays (all relative) with so much electrical kit on cars! I'll keep my fingers crossed and await your update!

Yes indeed! Please do try to find that connector first though! Another thought, turn off the lpg on the button to run on petrol, see if it does anything?? I don't know, but may go quiet if its not on gas. The electronic one actually turns it off gas if the valve saver runs out. Its linked in to the BRC system. I personally don't think that's a good thing, but that's how it's supposed to be wired.

It's in a good spot, but I'm short too so it's a long stretch to the back of the engine bay! 🤣 Good job I've got disproportionately long arms!

Ah, never thought of that!! I've got the electronic version of valve saver system on our Subaru, and the red LED is just above the LPG button. If there is an electrical connector to your reservoir, can you disconnect it, see if goes quiet, and then bridge across the terminals on the car side wiring to see if it make the beep again? If I've got it right, when you disconnect it, it should break the connection of the float switch and silence the alarm- if that's what it is of course!!

Hiya! I'll start the guesses - is it your fog light switch? Is it actually a switch? Or just a warning lamp?

Hi there! Just to put a bit extra thought to the equation - are you driving with the headlamps on? And other electrical load items? Obviously the fuel system is a rather unavoidable one, fuel pump, injectors and ecu. If you are, then possibly that's why it never gets completely "off charge" / fully charged, maybe? My Subaru Outback has a clever alternator that regulates the charge voltage, not just on or off, but even without lights in the summer, it didn't often drop down to 12.5 volts. There was always something drawing on it, radio/CD/music player, phone chargers, wipers (it's Britain!) etc. But from what I've read, these Toyota's aren't daft, or more realistically not a pain in the posterior, unlike many cars nowadays! Not like those that have got to be told parts have been changed cos they're too stupid to work it out themselves..... Progress, ha. Or manufacturer / dealer profits on labour, perhaps? So changing a battery shouldn't be a headache.

Hi there! Have you checked to see that your radiator is full of coolant?

Good advice! I tend to blow any bits out with an airline blower nozzle.

Because if the car doesn't see the brake light circuit activated when the pedal is pressed, it won't release the lock to allow the gear lever to come out of Park! More security! Unless it's physically broken! The gear shift lock mechanism that is.

I don't use the supposed "top end" expensive products any more, just the correct weight and spec, from my local autofactors, and I buy in 20 litre drums - but we have 2 (older) cars, both on LPG, my van, 2.5 Renault Diesel, and our friends motorhome, 2.2 Ford diesel, that I also look after. Also don't be shy of changing more often than the book, IF you can do it yourself so it's only costing you the oil and filter. The oil degrades more with short journeys than it does with longer runs, due to the condensation contamination and combustion acids formed, and engines aren't cheap...... At least they aren't sooty diesels! They DO hate short trips!

I'll keep my fingers crossed it works for you!

Wow! As they say, you learn something new every day! Who would have thought a solar contoller would emit significant enough radio waves to cause that interference!

Maybe others are for a full tank, but not CataClean, its different. Please take a look at it, I've screenshoted one description from ebay.

Ah yes, depending on the one you used that could have been correct, but I know the actual "CataClean" brand is put in to a "small" amount of petrol in the tank!

Hi there! Without actual detailed specifics on what emissions are out of kilter, and just how far out, not that I'd know what it meant in honesty, I would be very tempted to try a fuel system cleaner. I have used "CataClean" in the past, not for an MOT fail though ,and it felt like it made a bit of difference, but of course it could be I just wanted to believe it! Perhaps check reviews of ait and some similar products? Best of luck!

Hi guys! I have recently had my compressor go on my Renault Master van, and yes I heard that rattle over the diesel engine! It should not be hard to diagnose that, you don't need any special info for that. If the refrigerant gas pressure doesn't alter when the AC tries to start, it really is very likely the compressor! On my previous cars and van, R134a gas, it's around 5 bar when NOT working and drops, to a figure I'm guessing at, of 2 bar when working, but will fluctuate as it kicks in and out.