Jimmympv

The wife and I are thinking similar. A full side kitchen conversion isn’t really what we are after either. we kind of want to keep it as close to original as possible or at least being able to revert back to 7 seats without too much hassle. We’ve actually slept in the back of it for a night just with the rear seats up and middle row pushed all the forward and it wasn’t too bad aside from the annoying rear seat brackets getting in the way on the floor. We want a leisure battery but finding a place for it to go is a pain, I’m tempted to block off the rear drivers side like they do in the side conversions just so I can add a bit of extra storage and have somewhere to hide the battery and plug sockets. That or just get a Jackery or similar to save the trouble. looking forward to see how you get on.

Great work so far, looking forward to future updates, what's your end goal?

Just renewed with Hastings for £577. Last year was £590, any drop in price without me having to do the renewal dance is fine by me. Quick check of comparison sites were bringing back £600+

What bar did you get for it?

Check out this thread, might help with the diagnosis. I've a similar issue but it wasn't the bush unfortunately. Going to get it looked at when I take it for MOT/Service next month.

I know that Northstar Conversions can do this as long as you don't have the electric middle row seats, they can only do it on the manual ones. Was quoted around £2k for the job.

That upper steering column sounds like the part I need. I already changed the bush, the one already in there looked brand new still but swapped it out anyway. It sounds like it almost emanates from right behind the steering wheel as if somethings loose and rattling about when it happens. There’s a place called Osaka in Newport that specialises in Toyota and Lexus imports so I might just book it in with them and get it looked at as it’s due a full service and MOT soon, I was planning on servicing it myself but can never find the time!

What price are we looking at for this part? Also do you have the part number? I have a feeling this is the issue with mine, all of the knocking/vibration comes from right behind the steering wheel. Don't really get any noise rocking the wheel side to side or at full lock etc. If you drive over a gravel drive for example it'll rattle like hell, on a regular road it will be fine until you hit a pot hole or at certain speeds when the frequency must vibrate just right to make it rattle. Sometimes it'll knock going over a speed bump sometimes it won't. It has absolutely no effect on the handling whatsoever it's more of an annoyance than anything.

We're about to go on our first weekend away next week. We've got the Vango Galli CC II Air Low which can easily sleep 4. Can be used as a stand alone tent too as the side awning that attaches to the van can be rolled up and strapped to the side.

Got a 20 series, The petrol light comes on when the range indicator drops to 0"km" (actually miles since it was changed electronically but the km can't be changed to display just an m) If I fill up straight away it barely takes 50l to fill the tank. So I calculate I have around 10l at least left in the tank when cruising range reaches 0 which would be a good 50-60miles worth of range before getting to dangerously low levels. I have wondered if the Petrol light will start to flash when it gets too low like on my previous cars.

Good afternoon everyone. I've finally managed to get techstream up and running and managed to pull my first "health check" on my 2012 Alphard. Previously used a wireless OBDII device and carscanner app to check for error codes but nothing was found. As you can see I have a lovely wall of amber on my health check report, although it looks like only one is a current error the rest are historical. Is there anyone with a bit of experience able to take a look at this screenshot and give it to me in laymen's terms what's gone on/is currently going on. I have no warning lights at all anywhere on my dash, the only issue I've had with the car since owning it is the slight knock/vibration which is hard to pin point is it's felt in the steering column or something loose behind the instrument cluster. I've changed the electronic power steering bush which wasn't the cause of the issue, so wondering if this current DTC issue is related. Looking at the historical codes I'm thinking the car might have had some sort of collision and repair before being shipped off to auction, carvx report doesn't show any reported accident repair.

Hi all, bit of an odd question which might sound a bit daft but when insuring do you declare it an import or not? I've spoken to my insurer and they have told me that it's not an import because I bought it from a UK dealer and it was already registered in the UK when purchased. It only needs to be declared an import if I have personally imported and registered the vehicle. I have always been under the assumption that as it's an imported vehicle it has to be declared an import on insurance but according to my insurer that's not the case... Should I be concerned about the fact my insurer doesn't want to list my Alphard as an import?

From the manual. Rough translation and what ChatGPT says.

We just got back from the Caravan Camping & Motorhome show at the NEC and had a good look at a lot of drive away awnings there. We were very tempted by OLPRO Cocoon Breeze v2 especially based on its price point especially the bundle price. Build quality isn’t as good as the vango, but they did have a decent bundle on offer at the show. Not sure what there online prices are. We ended up buying the Vango Galli CC II Air after seeing it at the show. Including carpet, ground sheet protector and inner double bedroom it was an even £1000 which is a bit cheaper than was available online so was happy with that.

you can get replacements pretty cheap on AliExpress. I got a set of sequential ones for about £20. Get hold of a plastic pry tool, you need to tilt the glass down and pry it off, if you have the heated mirrors be careful as they will be wired in so don’t want to break them. There are a few clips holding the casing on, pop them out and run the pry tool along the opening to pop it off. there should be two screws holding the light in place. You can just unplug it and plug the new one straight in. I guess you could also pop the working one you have in to see if that works on the other side.