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To prove the mileage(without BIMTA certificate) you can ask for the auction paperwork or buy own report from https://carvx.jp/ . It's basically car history pulled from Japanese Ministry of Transport Database.

2.4 = chain, 3.0 = belt 🙂

1) From your description sounds like they are only replacing the speedo dashboard/clocks. You can ask for the speedo chip to be fitted, the cost of the chip is around £50 and odometer will then record in MPH. 2) Battery https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx3005/?gclid=CjwKCAjw3MSHBhB3EiwAxcaEu7oa0Nh8vpmUsU7cD7FRKAELbpWfApKVeqJzQriU7aMvVWyfDE0A7hoCB2MQAvD_BwE 3) True 2.4 has a chain 4) I would suggest to ask for the frame number and check if there are any outstanding recalls. Here is the link to check https://www.toyota.co.jp/recall-search/dc/result?FRAME_DIV=ANH10&FRAME_NO=0124801 Personally I would prefer to see under chassis condition before resealing to make sure there is no rust however as your grade is 4 you can trust the grade. I would still ask for the auction paperwork to see what is in there.

Should be fine. You can check your engine code https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/?utm_source=AlphardClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks

From the exterior point of view there are 2 different grades, Standard (X & Z) and Sport (S). Standard has 16inch alloys and Van type body where Sport 17inch alloys and sport looking bumper with rounded fog lights. Standard interior will be in light beige colour seats and brown marble looking panel. Sport is with black seats and blue/black marble panel. The rest is more up to the spec for each individual model. From April 2005 Alphards had a facelift which brings a little more confusion however the easier way to recognize if you are buying pre or post facelift model from the picture are the front light cluster. Pre facelift has orange signal as a part of the lights, post facelift are all white. The rear lights are also different, old models has one white stripe, new model has two whites stripes.

For Alphard 10series 2002-2008 there are two petrol models V & G, they are manufactured in different places by different companies and they differ by their own specification, body style and interior. Anything starting with A such as AX is 2.4L, anything starting with M such as MX is 3L engine. First letter represents engine variant where the second represents trim configuration with X as the lowest, AS/MS grade are the sport style. Below you can see all years/models with full specs for comparison. http://auto-japanese.com/catalog/index.php?action=3&company=TOYOTA&model=ALPHARD+G http://auto-japanese.com/catalog/index.php?action=3&company=TOYOTA&model=ALPHARD+V

You cannot use cruise control over 70mph

I believe it's more common on 3 litre engines however I have mine on 2.4 Cruise control will also have limiter @70mph, this is default requirement in Japan. I believe it is possible to remove this somehow with obd2 reader if needed.

Here you can see all years/models with full specs http://auto-japanese.com/catalog/index.php?action=3&company=TOYOTA&model=ALPHARD http://auto-japanese.com/catalog/index.php?action=3&company=TOYOTA&model=ALPHARD+G http://auto-japanese.com/catalog/index.php?action=3&company=TOYOTA&model=ALPHARD+V http://auto-japanese.com/catalog/index.php?action=3&company=TOYOTA&model=ALPHARD+HYBRID

You can find your paint code on the left column of the passenger door label and/or under the bonnet label.

Under the bonnet.

You can see the wiring in the section Electrics/Wiring&Clamp

Try this https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/

You can find your engine model on the left column of the passenger door label

From my understanding 2.4 2AZ-FSE with direct injection is not compatible and this is not an Alphard engine, Alphard 2.4 engine is 2AZ-FE. I believe the direct injection system is the problem for E10.

Have a look here

Happy ending at the end, everyone's gearboxes and speedos are working as they should 👍

Here are some old posts regarding lpg conversion, I would suggest to chase up or try researching online for more info. 3.0 I think it is a good idea in general, was thinking about it myself...at the beggining. Both engines 2.4 & 3.0 are suitable for LPG, again most likelly you will pay more for 3.0 conversion however in your case and motorway miles it may pay off much quicker.

I decided to go for 2.4 mainly due to the less maintenance costs and my needs. 2.4 - chain belt - 4 spark plugs 3.0 - timing belt - when replacing water pump need to be replaced as well - 6 spark plugs From my point of view the only advantage of 3.0 is more power. You will probably find a lot of people stating 2.4 is underpowered but then at the end how much power do you need? 2.4 is perfect for motorway cruising at 70mph with 2 adults in, full camper conversion and bags, gear etc. If you are planning to drive faster or potentially have bigger load in the van, 6 people in most of the time then maybe 3.0 will be better option.

Yes, it is confusing to have 2 driving modes on one level. When in D you should see around 3000revs at 70mph.

D-3... it's basically D on the left(4 gears), 3 on the right (3 gears) You need to drive in D.

2.4 is 4 gear. It is confusing as there is no label stating 4 anywhere however 4 gear option is on the same level as 3-D, just on the left (straight down from N).

This is high. Sounds like you may be driving in 3rd gear.

https://lockwoodinternational.co.uk/product/toyota-alphard-petrol-mph-dial-part-no-c1761/

Ideally you should have chip fitted + speedometer dial should be replaced to MPH. With both in place everything will be in MPH, no confusion. I would also ask the dealer to provide BIMTA certificate to verify the mileage.