Rojie

UV should penetrate tinted glass; but the level of UV will be reduced with increasing level of tint.

Unfortunately, not much UV should pass through a windscreen; especially the laminated ones, as the plastic laminate is a UV blocker !

23 minutes ago, pcous said:

Hi Rojie,

 

Ah..... so that attachment didn't work - here's the list:

 

Motorhome Habitation Annual Service Schedule

 

UNDERBODY

 

Body to chassis mountings - check security

 

Cab to body junction - check

 

Underbody tanks & auxiliaries - check

 

Spare wheel retainer - check operation & lubricate

 

Corner steadies & folding steps (where applicable) - Check operation & lubricate

 

Chassis - lubricate axel tube (AL-KO) & Inspect non-original suspension components

 

 

12V ELECTRICS

 

12n & 12 plugs/cables (where applicable) - Check condition & test

 

Road lights & reflectors - check condition & operation

 

Fridge - check operation

 

Interior lighting & equipment - check operation

 

Habitation battery (where fitted) - Check condition, security, electrolyte level & lubricate terminals

 

Wiring, earth's & fuses - inspect condition & correct fuse ratings

 

Awning light & outside pump socket - check condition & operation

 

Fan maste – test

 

 

VENTILATION

 

Ventilation openings - check for obstructions & free flow of air

 

Adjustable ventilators - check for function

Roof lights - check to ensure free of obstruction

 

 

GAS (FRIDGE NOT SERVICED UNLESS REQUESTED)

 

Regulator - check performance

 

Carry out gas leak test

 

Appliances (including water heater, cooker, heating & fridge) - check operation

 

Pipe work - check condition & replace flexible hose & clips when necessary

 

Flame failure device - check operation

 

Cylinder - check security

 

Gas dispersal holes - check for blockage

 

 

MAINS ELECTRICS

 

Inlet plug, hook up cable (when available) earth bonding & RCD operation - check

 

Outlets & permanent connections - carry out visual & functional check

WATER SYSTEM

 

Water pump, pressure switch & heater - check operation & clean grit filter

 

Taps, micro switch, valves, pipes & tank (If fitted) - check condition & operation

 

Water filter & housing - check for leaks & replace filter if necessary

 

Waste system - check for leaks

 

Toilet - check seats, flush & blade operation

 

 

FIRE SAFETY

 

DIY additions - check operation & safety

 

Security & smoke alarms - check operation

 

Extinguisher (if fitted) - Check correct type fitted & expiry date

 

Fire blanket (if fitted) - check location & fixing

BODYWORK

 

Body panels - check & report on any damage & sealant condition

 

Door locks & hinges - check operation & lubricate

 

Body attachments - check security (including ladders, cycle racks, lockers, aerials, satellite dishes etc)

 

Floor - check for delamination

 

Cab seat - check operation (swivel type or bed configuration only)

 

Furniture - check condition & operation (incl. hinges, stays etc)

 

Windows seals & blinds - check operation & condition

 

Rising roofs - check operation (where applicable)

 

Hi pcous,

Thanks for your answer.

It was a general enquiry intended for the informational benefit of all our members.

Very thorough, and not an unreasonable price imho.

Most Caravan suppliers will also be able to provide a Habitation Check service.

Thanks again 

1 hour ago, Liz Coles said:

Does anyone have a video of accessing and swapping the battery?  I have a genuine Toyota battery coming but can pull back the centre console, but how do I take the rest apart?

Hello Liz,

Are we talking leisure battery here ?

Or do you have a Hybrid ?

Presumably you have ordered the same capacity, Amp per Hour (Ah); that the battery is the same physical size; and that the terminals are in the correct configuration.

The main battery will be under the bonnet in the engine bay.

If you are changing your Hybrid, there are some threads on here.

But I expect a member will be able to advise when they read your topic.

If you are changing your main battery is is quite easy, but they are heavy.

Let us know and we can tell you the correct order for disconnection and reconnection

Whichever battery you are changing; make sure you have all the correct spanners before you start !

3 hours ago, Malheg said:

Selling 2005 Alphard 2.4 in Pristine condition. 130k miles.

Profession side conversion, sink & 2x burner gas hob as new. On board water with pump to sink.

Detachable Bike carrier which allows for trailer attach.

Lighting to rear with window blinds.

USB & 12v Sockets.

12v Fridge freezer.

12months MOT & Service

 

As extra option we have inflatable driveaway awning and camping gear with trailer.

Hi Malheg,

Welcome to the Forum.

Nice machine.

53 minutes ago, pcous said:

Hi Tony10,

 

I'm glad you've got this sorted. Just as a precaution, it's worth noting that campervan conversions typically have mains electricity, gas and water, all in a relatively small space, and it's worth having an annual habitation check to ensure there are no problems/leaks, ventilation is OK, smoke/CO alarms are functional etc. Our insurers also stipulate that we have a fire extinguisher handy....  I guess some people may be able to do habitation checks themselves, but for peace of mind we've had our annual check done by our local garage/campervan hirer .

 

Regards,

pcous

Hi pcous,

What was the approximate cost of your Habitation check.

Were you provided with a Certificate ?

Hi Teekay,

My advice ?

Don't do anything until you have an MOT and the vehicle registered and insured.

Do you have rear fog lights ? You will need them for the MOT.

The MOT will identify what must be done and what needs doing.

Most imports are in good shape; I expect you won't need to do most of this.

Finding a willing mechanic, unless you are one, to do all this work

Undersealing should be a high priority.

Good Luck.

55 minutes ago, Panasonic said:

Can vellfire satnav be change to English roads

Hello Panasonic !

Welcome to the Forum.

3 hours ago, Oddcouple said:

We were a bit concerned seeing some of the prices quoted on here, mainly as this is a second vehicle so starting from 0 no claims on the vehicle. Adrian Flux sourced fully comp for the 2 of us for £285, through an LV subsidiary company. There are deals out there!

I believe Safeguard and Scenic are both subsidiaries of LV.

Safeguard will insure conversions provided the convertor is on their recognised 'list'.

Otherwise Scenic will insure conversions.

There are deals out there.

Many insurers on line forms will not recognise an Alphard.

This does not necessarily mean they don't insure Alphards.

If no luck, phone the company direct.

3 hours ago, tyrone reynolds said:

hi   i have done one years insurance with adrian flux and he charged me 850 fully comp clean licence held for many years 10 years no claims i want a lot cheaper this may can any one please regards ty ps i am very young 75

Hello Tyrone,

Welcome to the Forum.

There is a main thread on here which lists many insurance companies which will insure Alphards and Vellfires.

Many mainstream insurers, however, do not; especially if you have your vehicle converted to a campervan.

I found AF quotes rather silly, but other members have been very 'happy' with them.

As with all brokers (which AF is) is it worthwhile understanding which company is the actual Insurance Underwriter (provider).

Insurance Companies for Your Toyota Alphard

5 hours ago, Gadge said:

New to the site.

Thanks for allowing us to join, we have a 2008 3.5 V6 Alphard in Black colour and had a 2004 3.0 V6 4WD prior to this one 

 

will post some photos of our Alphard up soon 

 

We are located in NE England, Newcastle area 

 

Hello Gadge,

Welcome to the Forum.

The Alphard drives like the large car that it is, not like a commercial van.

You won't be disappointed.

55 minutes ago, Keeraan said:

Hello,

 

I recently bought a 2005 Toyota alphard and the front shocks are cracked and need replacing aswell as the drop link. The suspension has been dropped and Kwik Fit seem to think it has sports suspension. Can anyone point me in the direction of locating parts or a garage that can do this? Located in South Wales if that helps.

 

Thanks 

Hello Keeraan,

Welcome to the Forum.

12 minutes ago, Pritch said:

We have a 230cm rail fitted to our Alph, and after much delving and investigation, we went for a Vango Faros II Air driveaway.

 

Reason...the strip that attaches to the van is smaller than most at 250 (max), which means 10cm each side outside of the rail (driveaway strip straightens this and have had no issue whatsoever). 

 

Weve got it down to about 15 minutes from bag to fixed, and tbh has changed our away ventures massively.

Easy to 'drive away' and re attach, so genuinely does what its supposed to

 

HTH

Looks just what I need.

Atm, we 'unload' in to a small (jaw breaking) pop up tent.

It certainly isn't pop down

Getting it back in the bag takes seconds, but only if you have arms like Popeye.

15 hours ago, pcous said:

Hi Martin1621,

 

I recall seeing a post on this forum stating 38-40psi generally, and our campervan converter suggested 38pi both front & rear. So, you could ask whoever did the campervan conversion (perhaps the simplest solution). Alternatively, it might involve quite a bit of sleuthing & emailing....

 

These were the weight figures we were given from the Japanese import certificate (Gen 1 2005-07):

Weight	Total	Front	Rear
	(kgs)
Car: Net	1870	1070	800
Car: Revenue (i.e. GVW)	2255

 

So there's a difference of 385kg between unladen and laden weight (which doesn't seem a lot for a 7/8 seater...) for the base Alphard, but there was no breakdown in the figures for front and rear separately when laden. When converted, there's the added unladen weight from permanent campervan furniture, but not 5-6 people in the back when laden. After messing about on a weighbridge several times, putting the whole vehicle on then the rear only (and subtracting the difference), we worked out the unladen and laden weights for each axle. Divide the axle weight by 2 to get a load for each tyre...

 

Tyres are weight (and speed) rated, so your 93Y on the front can each carry 650kg maximum (1300kg for the front axle overall) and 98Y on the rear can take a 750kg max load each (1500kg for the rear axle). So far so good, but the recommended Alphard tyre pressures in the manual (34psi or 2.3kg/cm2) are for the base vehicle rather than as a campervan and ultimately it depends on your max weight (front & rear), also the tyre type/manufacturer .

 

For our campervan , Continental, Falken, Kumho and Nokian responded to e-mail enquiries, but to get them to offer figures we needed to point out that the conversion meant that standard Toyota figures didn't apply, and choose a specific tyre first to ask them about, rather than making a general enquiry. In the end we went with Falken  front & Nokian van tyres rear, which the manufacturers said should be 34 & 41psi respectively, but this was based upon our weighbridge figures which showed that, when laden, the extra weight primarily loaded on the rear axle (gear & bikes on towbar etc...) and made no substantial difference to the front end. Of course this is just an example to show that tyre pressures may need to be different front and rear - your situation may be different....

 

Regards,

pcous

 

 

 

 

 

Just one other small point to consider.

The front to rear weight distribution is different depending on whether you have side or rear conversion !

As many Alphies are 'upgraded' by their owners in Japan; it could be anything.

Most common are a switch for your rear fog lights (not normally fitted where you have it).

A switch to disable the DVD disabler !

The DVD screen, not sound, is interlocked with the footbrake.

Some owners fit switches so DVDs can be watched with the foot brake in the up (off) position.

2 hours ago, Alphard Club said:

20 Series vs 10 Series Squeaky Cabin, anyone moved up to the 20 series and find the cabin has squeaks and rattles? Never noticed it in the 10 series.

 

One is from the sunroof / DVD roof Screen area

Others from around the door areas

Although the cabin on the 20 series is a much improvement, i have finding the door areas squeak and rattle. Feel like taking off the door cards and felting the doors. 

 

Welcome to Gen 2 ownership !

15 hours ago, starider said:

Hi, have found what I believe is the socket for plugging in my MP3,but cannot get any response. There is a socket on the radio facia left hand side which will accept a lead & plug, but when pressing the display which looks like the one for outside players there is no output. Any ideas please.

 

 

 

 

Can you upload a photo of your head unit and the plug ?

1 hour ago, calimba said:

 

She tells you the day/date when you first start the car that day, except for when she wishes you a Merry Christmas / Happy New Year on those days

 こんにちは Calimba

Welcome to the Forum.

Just what we need; a Japanese translator !

14 hours ago, Rojie said:

 

Part number 55620-58010-A0

Need to check correct for your model number.

Search google  They are quite expensive,

Try to repair the one you have.

Hello David,

It turns out my advice about the stainless Alphard bumper trim  IS WRONG.

I sought a second opinion. They are stuck on with double sided sticky tape.

They are extremely difficult to remove without, effectively, destroying them.

They have a tendency to fold in half, making the damage impossible to repair.

5 minutes ago, David Samuel king said:

Thank you Rojie, Sorry I don’t know my model no, I presume it will be on the vehicle but I don’t get it back from the garage until either Wednesday or Thursday, if so I could find out then.
One more thing the cup holder under the gear stick area is broken and I haven’t been able to find one on line, if you know where I could purchase one I would be grateful.

Part number 55620-58010-A0

Need to check correct for your model number.

Search google  They are quite expensive,

Try to repair the one you have.

35 minutes ago, Oddcouple said:

Good stuff, never thought about the storage aspect and didn’t even know there was an outer all in one!

Available on ebay.

More than one level of quality / blackout.

As Starider says, they fit over the windscreen and both the passenger and drivers doors.

Very good for privacy, and preventing the sun bleaching your upholstery when parked (laid up) for longer periods.

1 hour ago, David Samuel king said:

Thank you for replying to my problem. I will try and get the ding out of the protector . The other issue is at the end of the slide rail beneath the rear smoked window. I cannot look at my alpahard at present as yesterday it went in for a gas conversion. It is a v model 3 lite v6. I m not sure if that’s helps.

thankyou 

I have a V6.

I'll look at mine tomorrow and try and understand which part you are referring to.

Do you know your model number ?

Hello David,

Welcome to the Forum.

Do you mean the tail gate window ?

Presumably you mean the rear right window between the C and D pillars.

Are you sure you are not looking at where the sliding door rail is ?

Immediately under the tinted window.

Depending on how 'dinted' your protector is, you may need to try and repair it.

I have such a part on my Alphie, but I think they are quire rare.

It it not shown on the EPC drawing for my MNH10, so may be a dealer fitted option.

What model do you have.

Passenger side B pillar is where the ID plate should be.

Hello Kathy,

Welcome to the Forum.

Hello R4,

I am referring to my Gen 1 facelift model, not your later model.

Radar cruise control is not the same as cruise control.

Radar control maintains a distance between your vehicle and the vehicle in front of you.

As Chris.ac mentions above, I advise you to check that these kits include the actual cruise control, and not just the Radar part.

Better safe than sorry