BigNev

Jolly Blooming Marvellous!!!

And a monster of an output for the size!

Hi Phil!

I just had a look at that one, and at 261mm wide (rather than 242 for my 027 ), it could just squidge into mine.

Most were 266 to 270mm.

I'm reckoning if it did in yours it jolly well should do, same car model!!

But - how did you go on with the retaining bracket across the top as it's 30mm higher than the 027 battery?

Did it need any bending to clamp properly? Not a big deal really!

The back is simple as it's the usual rod / nut with plenty of "slack" on the thread, but the front fixing is a bolt directly into the metal frame. Was it easy enough to use a longer bolt and spacer?

Cheers, Nev

Hi there!

There aren't any fuel shortages.

It was only 1 person in 1 locality who had trouble getting the "Super" E5 unleaded, the 5% Ethanol mix, at the point he posted.

He hasn't been back to say anything further so we don't know if his area has or hasn't got E5 now.

For a week locally to me, 2 major supermarkets had none, but that was soon over and there hasn't been any problem since.

Cheers! Nev

Cracking solution! 

The simplest is often the way as they say!

If you do need a 12v battery, there's another thread active just now on that subject, but basically I'd suggest Tayna Batteries, in Bodelwyddan, North Wales, for good price and next day delivery.

Cheers,

Nev

So, from my tape measure, a size 068 won't fit in the battery tray on mine.

And there isn't that much difference in amp grunt to the 027 option.

But the one I have in it, a "Starting Bull" is at the bottom end on the range, 510 cca, whereas Varta, Bosch and Exide have 610, 610, and 640 models!!

And that's without going to AGM type! They go to 680!!

 Cheers, Nev

Hi Alex!

And I agree with you!

If I'm buying a battery, I try to look for the higher amp rating and "cold cranking amps" in the size. There can be quite a difference in performance for different manufacturers hey!

And these cars do have a LOT of electrical kit!

Just looked at Tayna, and for my reg they suggest an 068 battery.

Perhaps when I'm home later I'll do some research on physical size difference to the one that's on mine. The guy I bought our car from clearly had one die shortly after he got it from the importer, and bought one local to him, as the receipt for it is in the folder!

Cheers, Nev 

Hi Tony!

I'd personally suggest Tayna batteries in Bodelwyddan, North Wales.

They'll save you a fortune, and will send it to you next day.

My car has an 027 battery fitted. I'm not saying that's right, or for yours though, it was put on by the previous owner.

Cheers, Nev 

Hi Stephen!

I don't have a Hybrid, but I would suggest also buying a (12v car) battery tester, relatively cheap kit nowadays, to give an indication of the amp rating capacity, as voltage does not necessarily give the whole picture.

Yes it needs good voltage, for the communication side, but it's "amps that cranks".

Actually though, from reading on this forum, I believe it isn't the 12v battery that cranks the engine!!!

I'll hand over to those who know on that one!!

Cheers,

Nev

Ah, chuffing heck.

My mistake, should have asked for a picture first, as one paints a thousand words!

Ah ECO mode button, I wish I had it!!

Sorry, off thread!

No

Simples

Use Toyota actual fluid, yes it's more cost, but it will absolutely be correct. And it's not going to want doing often hey!

Well blooming heck! 

You live and learn!

Let us know the technique if you get it sorted please!

Cheers, Nev 

Hi Malcolm!

My guess is you are going to love it! 

I can highly recommend the "JPNZ" owners manuals!

I actually bought one before we had the car, we were fairly sure that we were having one! 

They are not a workshop manual, but they give lots of bits of useful information how little functions work, that may take a lot of figuring out otherwise.

I did also download an owners manual a member very kindly put on the forum, about May this year I think, (can't find it right now) and got my local little print shop to print it out for me. It's 550 pages, but they printed it 2 to an A4 sheet and double sided.

I may be a little sad, but it's interesting reading. I am that man who reads the manual whenever we got a "new" car 🤣

But anyway - your question - below the START button is a rectangular switch with AUTO on it and 2 pictures of the mirrors, top one out, bottom one in. On mine in the middle position it will fold / unfold on locking / unlocking. If you press it in at the top, they will stay out, at least they do on mine!

Cheers, Nev

Yay glad it's back up and running sweetly!!

And hopefully the brief problem hasn't damaged your enthusiasm for it!

Thr light on the dash was a total red herring!!

Cheers, Nev 

Hi there!

I don't know how the immobiliser reader works on your particular model, but on one car I've had the chip move within the key housing, not at all far, but far enough so the ring in the steering cowl wouldn't see it.

I suggest this as you say you've seen the immobiliser key symbol come up.

Also - is there much play in the ignition barrel?

Just a thought into the mix, if it's a bit loose, could the key be a tiny bit further out than it should be, which will mean the reader ring can't see it?

It's a very fine area that they read!

Hi Liam!

If your question is to me, them I'm not the OP with the query.

I metely pointed out what I've seen,  and read, and confessed it's not a job I'm brave enough to tackle!

Cheers, Nev!

Hi there!

Perhaps a picture of the one you do have would help?

To avoid any confusion in description.

Cheers, Nev 

Aha!! Excellent!

Would that be Electronic Throttle Control?

I was on the right path, brownie points to me 😃

I'm constantly amazed how dumb some people are, who are supposed to do "the subject" for a job- how the hell could a gearbox problem stop an engine revving??

If it was in limp mode it would still rev to some extent.

It would rev if the gearbox wasn't there!!

And timing belt - your 3.5 doesn't have one!!

But regardless, if it did, and slipped, if it ran it would rev.

So does that mean your battery was flat, then you jump started it?

If it started, the immobiliser is not your problem.

Some more background details could be useful!

It's possible the jump start has spiked some circuit, and we'll assume it was connected correctly so there wasn't a 24 volt supply created - or there could be a few components that will not have liked that.

I'm fairly sure there is a fuse box behind there, but you may need to remove the box to get at it,  I think you squeeze in the 2 lugs, and unlatch the little damper on the outside left.

Good luck!

Cheers, Nev 

On 8/15/2025 at 8:32 PM, BigNev said:

Will it rev with the accelerator pedal, out of gear?

If not, suspect the throttle position sensor.

Or also the motor for the throttle actuator?

Has it been jump started, and maybe it's blown a main fuse?

Blooming marvellous!!

You are most welcome! 😃

Does that black plastic cover pull off?

If so, it could look like my lpg filler, standard UK nozzle.

Will it rev with the accelerator pedal, out of gear?

If not, suspect the throttle position sensor.

That's a reasonable idea, if the one that was fitted was known....

It seems quite likely, from the pictures of the rear of the unit, in aftermarket adverts I've seen, to be a choice of 2, when taking into account the connections for the amplifier system for the Theatre sound system etc under the passenger seat. 

Those adverts never cover the one I've got, but try to lead you to believe that with various adapters it will work....

Others experience on here says otherwise!

And of course, we don't know if that amplifier has been bypassed by the fitting of the current head unit, only investigation by David will discover this!