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Ok, so I cheated and detached the cup support on the replacement and it was a simple click into place job. I didn't fancy having to take the lower dashboard / console apart, at least not today.

Hi, new to the forum. I've had multi insurance with LV for years but they would not insure my Alphard. Went with Admiral. £211 fully comp for me and my wife. We live in the North of Scotland, 2004, 2.4.

Hi there! That job appears to not be one for the faint hearted regarding wiring and electrical work! There are a few threads covering people's adventures with it. Especially on the theatre sound with the 18 speakers, the original system has LOTS of features that the aftermarket look to not have included. In my case, I'm not brave enough to delve in, but Google translate is our friend! And we're now getting used to where most buttons are, and do, on the sub menus. The phone will Bluetooth stream music to it, and hands free telephone. We have a separate sat nav, and being not so young we don't really have a great need of other apps on the car rather than our phones. However I do appreciate many people like the modern appearance, and enjoy the challenge

I was getting P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)" also and cleaning the MAF didn't help - the error would come back. What fixed it for me was changing the fuel Lambda sensor which, on mine, was a struggle as the previous mechanic had forced the sensor into place and had damaged the thread. An M18 x 1.5 tap and die cleaned up both the thread on the exhaust and the new sensor which I purchased - I would warn to be on the lookout for ones with the correct plug on the end as the cheap ones come with bare wires that need to be housed in the original socket (as the supplied ones don't stand a chance of fitting) and are bound to cause issues. I ended up getting this one: https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-anh15-24-front-fuel-ratio-sensor-34437-p.asp Which is rather expensive but arrived quickly and was a straight plug in. If you haven't located the fuel lambda sensor look at the exhaust manifold cover behind the radiator. I also changed the fuel filter and the air filter - which may have helped but less so that the sensor I would say.

hello mark sorry you had bad luck if you did not over heat i say you be ok you will need to replace the tank because its under pressure so glueing wont be any good . next question did you buy privatly or from a dealer as it be under warranty they should put right if you want i can get you part no. and point you in right direction to buy replacement pm me your reg no.

Looks like the third from the bottom. I hope this helps.

Power output sockets are 110v ac 1500w max, american style 2 pin plug. To use engine must be on, READY light on, 110v select push button, to the right of the steering wheel, push in and the advisory light in the switch will light. Use a continental adaptor to charge phone, laptop, air fryer, induction hob etc with regard to max power and voltage applicable.

Blooming marvellous!! You are most welcome! 😃

I love this forum!❤️

Does that black plastic cover pull off? If so, it could look like my lpg filler, standard UK nozzle.

If it's a hybrid battery problem, Mark is a hybrid battery specialist who travels to you. Although I don't think he goes as far as you, there's a good chance he might know of someone in your area. He's worth a call 07307 893333

Here are a list of Insurance companies known to provide insurance for the Toyota Alphard. These are in no particular order and may vary from car to car. There may also be a chance that the advisor you talk to does not know anything about the Alphard, and you will need to ask them to talk to someone who knows. The list below has Alphards have insured Alphard's before. Adrian Flux Insurance (also specialise in Imports and cherished cars) 0800 5876 331 -------------------------------------- Advance Insurance 01249461665 -------------------------------------- Liverpool Victoria 0800 202 8460 -------------------------------------- Admiral Insurance 0333 220 2085 -------------------------------------- A-Plan Insurance (Thatcham) 01635 874 646 This is a local branch, possibly will deal with anyone over the phone. Have been know to insure Alphard's. Probably find your local A-Plan can also assist. -------------------------------------- Mark Richard (Jap Cover) Japanese Imported Cars 01275 792 270 Japcover.co.uk -------------------------------------- Crowthorne Insurance Services Ltd Import Car Insurance 08707 702933 www.crowthorne.co.uk/imported-car-insurance -------------------------------------- Japanese Car Import Specialists http://www.japcover.co.uk/home 01275 792270 -------------------------------------- Lifesure Group Japanese Import Car Insurance Specialists 01480 402460 -------------------------------------- Sky Insurance Japanese Car Insurance 03303 331250 (Could not quote Alphard) --------------------------------------- Keith Michaels PLC Japanese Import Car Insurance 0800 542 2141 --------------------------------------- AJ Insurance Service Import Insurance 0844 880 6708 If you have been insurance by another insurance company no listed above, (including campers) then comment below the company and phone number. Spammy Insurance co's beware, we remove spam.

As far as I am aware only the first generation (up to 2008) have the reversing middle seats - I am prepared to be corrected 🙂 The options with the head unit is to keep the current one and either learn Japanese, use google translate and/or make stickers for the buttons or replace the head unit and for that you will need to do a fair bit of research as there are lots of functions that are likely to be affected; reversing camera, front side cameras (if fitted), steering wheel controls for audio at least. This is complicated a bit more if you have 18 speaker system fitted and / or the drop down screen(s). The connections behind the head unit are unlikely to fit a replacement so expect a lot of wiring work or fitting of specific adapters.

Seriously, it was back to the early 60’s or more. Toiling away puting sink/hob unit back in realised the old thing hadn’t run for a bit so fired her up, failed! 😳 First time ever! Anyway battery appeared the issue, 11.7v, power pack hooked up, no good, Optimate charger on while I worked inside. At 12.7v tried again, no good, starter not engaging, faint clicks from under bonnet, had a poke around cables, noted clear area round starter solenoid, remembered old school faults and fetched two hammers, one rubber mallet, that didn’t work but standard metal one did the trick. She fired up like her usual self & idled beautifully. Canny beat the old ways!

Mine is definitely missing - I don't suppose there is a part number on it? Never mind - sourced a complete unit from ebay.

Well done, I fitted mine this afternoon

yeah I won't be flushing the whole system. As you said, it will just be drain and fill but I will remove the sump to access the filter and change this too. I only recently bought the car and have no record of the fluid being changed

I bought some oem touch up paint which I’ve applied to the odd stone chip which I’ve picked up. The colour match isn’t great but it should stop any issues before they occur. I use soft 99 Fusso coat which is a 12 month protection wax. It’s amazing ( and Japanese 😁 ) and then I use autoglym polar seal once a month. I apply this with a small foam gun at a distance of about 3 metres so you just spray a mist over the car, then rinse and dry (not the windscreen ) For regular washes I use autosmart auto wash, 5 litres for about £30 and it lasts ages as you don’t need a lot. Some people love ceramic coats. I hate them and think they are over priced (and can be applied badly even by ‘professionals’) That’s just my opinion, there’s lots of info, reviews etc out there

I couldn't find a definitive video or explanation on YouTube on how to change the interior light bulbs in the car. Apologies if this has been done to death but I couldn't find an explanation on getting to the bulbs. All the bulbs I found below were 12v8w w5w type bulbs. Sunshade mirror vanity lights. Left edge with a nail file or fine screwdriver to push the clip before pulling out the grey assembly with the bulb. Bulb is facing sideways. Pull out bulb and replace. This seemed to be the only one needing the grey assembly to be pulled out. Central lights between sunshades. Prise off the clear plastic starting from the top. You'll see the silhouette on the edge where the plastic holds onto the plastic. Bulb facing you. Pull out and replace. Light next to 2nd row and third row seats. Prise off the clear light reflector from the top using a fine screwdriver or flat spectacles screwdriver. Bulb faces you. Pull out and replace.

Hello Kate you got 2 sensors one is called a fuel ratio sensor which is top one close to manifold this is the most common one to bring the code up if this failing it will run rich if you pm me your reg no. I will give you part no. And drawing where located and link where you can buy it

hi Nic as bignev says you got blue print ADT32137 this comes with the gasket and filter blueprint is a good jdm brand or if you want to go genuine toyota only parts buy from partsouq genuine parts only they in dubia but shipping is very quick no import charges if you use fedex as the courier here is a link added parts to basket you need to buy filter and gasket seperatly https://partsouq.com/en/shop/shoppingCart/view oe no.s for each item next to each part.

Hi Best person to ask is https://uk.alphardclub.com/profile/4644-carl-millis/ . he designs towbars at towtrust and might have an answer for you.

Yep - this is normal behaviour after the battery gets disconnected. That and the clock will need resetting 🙂 For each window: press the 'down' button until the window drops all the way and then hold for 10 seconds, then raise it up to full and hold for 10 seconds

Check the links in this thread And this is the sort of kit you will need - but maybe not from this seller (bad feedback) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008165157365.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.22.23f665eaADLb8i&algo_pvid=9cb4957b-5bd7-435d-8ae7-a078562b1a39&algo_exp_id=9cb4957b-5bd7-435d-8ae7-a078562b1a39-21&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"2"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!GBP!161.21!104.79!!!1492.66!970.23!%40210390c917544355399951928e8c4e!12000044055741225!sea!UK!2324886173!X!1!0!&curPageLogUid=qHQHOR9Z2MvQ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

When I had a PO171 code - System too lean (bank 1) - I initially changed the MAF sensor, which didn't make a difference, and ended up replacing the O2 sensor in the exhaust, which was a pain as the previous person had broken the thread and I had to get a new tap and die (M18 x1.5) to cut the thread out again - I only did it up hand tight as I didn't want to break the new thread. Still working fine though.

I have used amayama several times and they are excellent - it takes a while to arrive but original parts at reasonable prices (on the whole - depends of what you are buying and what you think is reasonable) also very useful to make sure you are getting the correct part.

I am talking about this one - hopefully you are too 🙂

Dashboard illumination. So that the switch icon lights up with the other switches on the dash.

Motor Vision 0 NCD 0 Claims / Accidents in 20 years £361.90 Fully Comp , with Breakdown cover

Hi there! For what it's worth, with the number of codes you seem to be getting, I would hazard a guess that it's actually very possible to be a wiring loom, or wiring connection, fault somewhere. Or the connections to the 12v battery. Fault codes are often generated when the electrical resistance, or voltage, from a component goes out of the expected range. So if there is something that is causing this, the computer thinks the item is faulty - not the wiring to it. Water damaged cars are a good example, they can come up with "problems" a while after they dry out, and replacing the parts does not solve it.

I cured mine by accident simply disconnected the connector on the new head unit and the fault disappeared

Any views or thoughts on my Alphard Adventures fridge magnet bottle opener logo, I will post the engraved version in the morning

There is an association called The Auto Locksmiths Association. I have used one of their memebers in South Gloucestershire. They are not cheap mind but doa fantastic job in my view. They have a member down your way. Check out his link. https://jwlocksmith.co.uk/vehicle-key-replacement/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAqXKpd1-Bc0GlRRpMm8NphZtZxOfe&gclid=CjwKCAjwwLO_BhB2EiwAx2e-30Jn-9cIMHIzezLc77jsbofQw8N6kNpnladrc7B5DxcTW3WVICOtdhoCluAQAvD_BwE

Hi, I agree with Picasso, it's unlikely you have done any damage. I agree a new tank is the way forward.Don't run the engine until you have replaced the tank.

Bottom one is for the toll card payment

Hi I would appreciate any advice I can get on getting some brackets made.I would like to fit a canopy such like Fiamma. Thanks in advance SCRAP THAT .. I just seached the forum and found my answer.. should done that first. Thanks Tris

Welcome Adam

Yet again, thanks for your pointer. For that money (and my peace of mind!) I will replace the current switch with this one. Then just got to pull the display out so I can see what wires have been messed with.

Hey up James, how are you? If only TC went that extra little step like you! I've not read the comments below the video yet, but did you leave a hint on it? Help him out a bit 😄

I believe the 'mini-disk player' is actually for a toll card that they use in Japan a lot. As for the front fog lights there should be a fog light symbol on the light control stalk that controls them - when selected there should be a fog light symbol on the dashboard.

Hello Thomas that red thing is your converter chip these are supposed to be soldered in I see yours are connected wire connectors that’s a big mistake by the person who fitted it if I was you get each wire connection checked could be a loose wire I also notice you got a wire cut and doing nothing have a look see if that’s come off somewhere also chip could be faulty

Hello Tim, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Kathryn you will have no problems sourcing parts for your alphard most toyota dealers dont like imports or dont have the look up system i have the jdm look up system i help lots of members on here with part no.s and point in right direction with links where to buy from your more than welcome to message me anytime you want i will always reply with part no.s and will give you links on where to get your parts from and will be able to save you a lot of money.

One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I don't think that is the inverter that Michael is talking about. That is the inverter for the in car 100VAC supply to the sockets. The £5k inverter is in the engine bay and handles all the power going between the motor/generators and the hybrid battery.

Rodney's garage In forest hill. Good bunch of guys,

Agree hybrids are essentially rubbish unless you spend most of your time in stop start low speed traffic where regen can charge the battery, on a longer run you are mainly carrying extra weight that is not "paying" for itself. I had plenty of 1.9/2.0 TDI vag products and they were all close to or better than 70mpg on a run, no hybrid will get anywhere close. If the use case is lots of longer journeys and fuel economy is of concern, derv wins by some margin.

Thank you. Was quoted £470 by Toyota UK. :'D Love this forum