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One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Renewed with Adrian Flux a couple of weeks ago. £40 less than my first year (last year) That was a surprise! Graham

Hi. I have put a couple of posts on here a while ago. I had a towbar fitted which cost about £400 (an Alphard needs something a bit bespoke which my fitter ordered from somewhere in Sheffield). I then bought a secondhand Thule 2 bikerack off ebay. It cost £80. It isn't the tilt type, but works very well, and I just accept I can't open the tailgate without taking the bikes off - I don't need to remove the carrier itself, since it has a foldable frame. The bike rack also doubles as a luggage carrier. Without the bikes on, I can attach a large Fiamma luggage bag which fits a huge amount of stuff. £40 off ebay.

Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning up the inside of the battery terminal clamps, and wherever the battery negative lead connects to the body? They could be oxidized and causing a volt drop when trying to provide cranking current. Putting the starter pack on could bypass where the problem connection is, and hence why you get an instant start.

I have just had my first service at my local garage. We have been with them for several decades and I was interested to hear their opinion on our campervan conversion. I was pleasantly surprised to get the positive reactions I did. The headlamp discolouring is being dealt with with advice from yourselves on this forum and also local advice. I am now aware why the service (oil change in particular} 6k-7k intervals is important. Quote "the sump is small for the engine size Graham, only 4 litres of oil. Change it and the filter every 6k or so" unquote. Thanks for your help here everyone. Kind regards Graham

Depends on what you buy. They usually come with one fuse each and you use the original fuse in the main socket. Obviously you can put whatever fuses you like in but you don't want a higher fuse rating than the original, so pairs of the same or the spur being on a lower rated fuse would be best. When choosing which fuse socket to use you need to find out what it currently powers and / or do a test to find out whether its a permanent feed, comes one with the ignition or is only on when something happens, say headlights being on.

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

Day 17 2 Hours Felt like big progress today. I've been dreading using silicon gasket but think it went pretty well. Started the day with a failed attempt to remove the exhaust bracket bolt with my new induction heating tool. Looks like I'll need to weld the bracket back together. I needed to jack the engine up quite high to get the timing chain cover above the power steering pipe. I did a few test runs to make sure I could get the cover onto the engine without ruining the gasket. I installed the water pump first but then removed it as I needed the extra space. It says to install the cover 3 min after applying the sealant. It took a bit of study and preparation to get my head around all the different sealant widths. Cover on and all bolts torqued to spec. Timing chain tensioner and water pump next I think.

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping

Hi everyone. I installed android player to my car since 2022. Before this I never bother about the extra function using canbus box because my car didn't come with 18 unit speaker. Last year I make a study about the function of canbus and make some modification. 1) I bought the socket for meter 40pin. This socket connect to canbus box and HU. Original for other car. 2) I change the connection point to 13&14 follow the diagram 3) then I bought canbus Toyota from raise. 4) after that setting the HU You can get information like - parking trajectory - door information - parking radar - outdoor temperature - millage odometer - average consumption

I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for you mate! Yes I'm with you both, no logic to my reason just old fashioned gut feeling. Turn it over with the crank pully nut a couple of times, maybe spark plugs out if its too tough. Then start it up and get it up to full temperature, with the heater on full heat, whilst checking on coolant levels and for any little weeps. Then drop out that oil into a clean pan so you can check it!

>change at 5 min or 1 month? I am not an expert but personally I would: 1) Start by turning the engine over a few times, on a manual you could have it in gear, jack up a wheel and turn it but not sure how to approach that on an automatic. 2) As long as it turns freely start the engine and leave it to run for at least 10 mins until the oil is warm. 3) drain the oil and change the filter at that point - my guess is that whatever is likely to have been caught would have been caught by then. 4) obviously secure sump plug and refill with the proper oil 5) should be good to go - check for leaks would be the only advice, but I'm sure you would be doing that.

My reading of it says Yes - 360 UKP. Its classified as 'PLG (Private/Light Goods)' rather than Light Goods, no sign of Euro there either so those tables can be ruled out, as can motorcycles and tricycles, and I suspect that arguing that it's a car won't go very far so the only table that fits is the one you have there for the next tax year. What makes me chuckle a little is that our other car, a Hyundai Kona Electric, is currently at 0 UKP (for one more day - so I have just renewed that) but next year will be 10 UKP - though it will be increasing after that. I believe I am bringing some balance to the universe by being at opposite ends of the road tax spectrum (I can't afford a Veyron etc. so I am being realistic about the width of the spectrum). 2025-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf 2024-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf

Funny enough I was talking to a Mazda MX5 owner earlier today and told him about amayama.com and he was rather shocked that a part he had been looking for was around a third of the price on amayama. A good source it must be said.

Please update us all when you are satisfied it all goes together well and works flawlessly.

I got a 'J1332091' from Autodoc - this one I think: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/herthbuss-jakoparts/1376214 it seemed to match the original that I got out - though I suspect that the previous one was also a clone of some sort as I couldn't find any sign of a manufacturer on it.

Just insured our Vellfire for the first time. Quote from NFU Mutual over £1900 and the help desk less than helpful. Insurance subsequently arranged by Adrian Flux. All in just a smidgen over £600. Service was first class and extremely helpful. Happy customer.

For less than £40 , you can get a vci adaptor and copy of techstream, and program a blank key yourself

Thank you all, the key fob is now kept in the top door pocket. so far so good, it’s a steep learning curve, enjoying the bus and enjoying forum. thanks again

No respray it's just a rare colour for an Alphard, same colour code on some other Toyota's (RAV4 etc)

Hi crazymac680 , brilliant job I must say unfortunately I am going to have to tackle the same job on my daughters alpha 2.4l 2006, I have worked on cars alot and feel confident on the job a bit concerned on the amount of siezed bolts you had to deal with on you job. I am just wondering if you have managed to get a workshop manual as I find it difficult to find one mainly for all the torque settings. Kind regards, Bob.

Thanks - new Bosch ordered. Boosted it (which I don’t want to do too often) and it worked fine. No idea on age tbh, there’s a label on it but it’s very faded and VERY Japanese !

Toyota 26041 drop down screen operation for Alphard and Vellfire https://youtu.be/7MfcFsOkzBo

Hi I fitted this usb/12v socket/ battery display (ebay) which works perfectly for us. As in the above post we have a separate power source when engine isn't running. You do have to cut holes in the cubby lid and tidy up wiring underneath but there are easy access live and earth wires to splice off. Just make sure you fit an online fuse. Passengers love having the usbs! Just for info for anyone else and at the risk of hijacking the the thread, the red & white phono plugs below have a usb c at the other end which allows me to play Spotifyfrom my android phone through the video function on the head unit..sounds great too!

I am not sure about the Gen 1, but very confident that Theatre System was available on the Gen 1 facelift. It was an option though, so not all vehicles have it.

Joseph, at Topsham Car Sales, has been in the importation business for many years.

Would help us to know what headunit you have. As standard, the 2013 had a cd slot behind the screen. You push the eject/open screen button to reveal it. Should be obvious, unless you don't have an original headunit installed.

What age is it and does it have the theatre sound system? I have 10 series wiring diagrams

I suspect your toolkit will expand somewhat with Alphard ownership 🙂 - one of the items I have found really useful is a set of trim removers - small plastic levers that you use to remove trim, very useful for saving wear and tear on paint and the like. As for your supposed ignorance, don't worry about it, we are all in the same boat to one degree or another.

Hello jack sorry it’s a whole headlamp as the unit is sealed

Hello Simon I help lots of members on here with part no. S and ideas where to purchase pm me your reg no.

Hello Simon, Welcome to the Forum.

Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

Out of interest, Just got a quote from Adrian Flux. £621.93 (with £750 excess). Alphard 2013 240S petrol We are both retired, (I’m in my 70’s). Full NCB.

You sir are a a legend. I stumbled upon this thread and if I hadn't I was going to spend up to $8k or even more on trying to fix the problem. I was even close to purchasing an amplifier part # 86280-58090 but couldn't find the specific amp and there was one place in nz that could order it for $4.5k. I'm so greatful for you awesome bunch and I pray that God blesses you all with your hearts needs. Ps I own a 2012 Toyota vellfire 3.5 v6 with the 18 speakers. Thankyou thankyou thankyou thankyou From fiji to the world! Oh io 20250108_181843.mp4

Look what I found! Quell embarrassment 🫢🫢🫢

Well - colour me surprised. I started up my Alphard on my drive (which slopes slightly) at dusk and was a little surprised to see two lights not just come on, but then move themselves up on the car parked opposite, they may then have moved down a bit. When I got back indoors I did a quick search and it looks like the Alphard has self-levelling headlights! who knew? I have been trying to fit the mirror auto open / close device and am almost there but I seem to have blown a fuse as the radio / display screen doesn't work, or the GPS HUD (and maybe some other stuff). Still tomorrow is another day, I wonder what surprises the Alphard has in store 🙂

Thanks to this group I secured insurance with Adrian Flux (van is still on the ship) via chassis number. I'll be able to drive the car myself to an MOT station and then home, as per their T&Cs. £470 for the premium itself, but then if you add all the fees and the fact I'm paying monthly, it'll be £680! Still ok for the first year I guess. I'll look around once my car is registered, etc.

Have you tried Mark Richards (Jap Cover) ? It will be a case of shopping around. Also, add a second driver like a spouse or sibling who has full licence and access to another car. I have seen massive drops in price by adding another driver.

Im trying to post the link but not allowed by the forum rules. Heres the screenshot.

Hey. Apologies, my wife is using the car these days and I've always forgotten of an evening. I did remember that this Youtube video shows the different layouts in the 7 seat AH20 really well, including the "bed mode". All the best.

I have an 8 seater Vellfire. The middle and back seats can be arranged into a bed, although they do not fold completely flat as you can see in the picture.

The manual states 6.1 L with a filter change, but there will always be some oil left in the engine even after you’ve drained it. I only got 5 L in.

Challenge is what's good in Japan and what's good here (given the relative climate differences) it's hard to say. 5w30 is just a bit heavier weight and you'll likely trade the tiniest bit of fuel economy for better high temp protection (I imagine a heavier weight oil probably lubricates better when cold too). What is important is to try to not mix grades, as they don't mix well together. So if it already has 0w20, use 0w20 to top up etc. Also if you put the Alphard (2az 2.4 engine at least) into Opie Oils every option that comes back is 5w30. Certainly it won't do any harm and again might offer a bit better protection for our climate for a slight trade off in MPG.

You might do already chap, but if not definitely give 99ron a go. Found my 2.4 drives quite a bit better on it, top end performance when revved is definitely improved too. Probably all the better on yours now!! 👍

Yeah quite a few places offer maps for them, even the 1st gen. I can only assume the factory mapping is quite tame, and being a relatively large capacity 4 cylinder there's a bit of room for improvement. I wouldn't be surprised if it involves increasing the factory 6250rpm rev limit and tuning it to make a few more ponies at the top end. This one reckons c. 179hp can be made.....given the engine is probably the same as the 2nd gen bar software it wouldn't surprise me TBH. https://puretuning.net/en/chiptuning-files/toyota/alphard/2-4i-160hp I think the 2.4 gets a bit of flack for being underpowered, but honestly even stock I'm rather impressed with how well it hauls a vehicle the size of an Alphard around. It's also noticeably more perky when run on high octane fuel. Certainly it's not as effortless or relaxed as the V6 (nor sounds as good) but if you rev it out and are prepared to use the manual gears (will let you hit the rev limit then) for a minivan they tear along quite nicely I think 👍 In the US there is a bit of a following for turbocharging these motors in Camry's, where they then easily make late 200 bhps on very modest boost. I did watch a video of some guys in Australia that also eBay turbo'd a cheap Camry they bought and with next to no playing around (I think it may have had a standalone ECU being the only thing....£££££) it made about 260 brake. I'll be honest, if someone in the UK put together a decent, reliable kit for it and I had the funds, I would probably consider it for a laugh!

You don't have to answer those. There is no EU compliant emissions testing, these are not Type approved vehicles. I just gave them supporting documentation for proof of age, being the export Japanese export certificate, and an MOT certificate which was done under the chassis number. Included a cheque for the registration fee and 12 months tax. And 2 weeks later a V5C came though the post! It was amazingly easy to be fair! This is how I filled out my form.... And I sent it with all these docs.... And I got a V5C back like this!

Hi, have you considered these vehicles were made to carry up to 8 people (8 x 180 = 1440lbs) plus luggage as well as the seating which is very heavy. Personally I don't think you'll need uprated springs.

Just contacted Toyota JP and GB with regards to the second airbag recall and the brake cylinder master/servo unit issues, as our brakes are getting worse

There are 2 email addresses you need to contact. ap-overseas@mail.toyota.co.jp cr@toyota.co.uk Make sure you add both emails by cc-ing one of them. No point contacting Toyota GB directly, these emails will work. This order needs to come from Toyota Japan which will hit Toyota Europe, Toyota Europe then instruct Toyota GB, who then instruct a dealer to contact you with an appointment. You will get a call by Toyota GB before it goes to the dealer though. The dealer needs to receive instructions booklet on how to change the airbag etc.