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Glad that helped. Just to add a couple of practical tips: on the Alphard 2.4 hybrid the coils are indeed beneath the air filter housing, you normally remove the engine cover if fitted, unclasp/unbolt the airbox, then you can access the coil packs and spark plugs. Work with the engine cold, disconnect the negative 12V battery terminal, label/unplug coils before removing so you don’t mix leads, and use a spark plug socket with an extension and a good ratchet to avoid dropping anything into the well. As it’s a hybrid, steer clear of any orange high-voltage wiring or components. If you want a bit more hand-holding, post a photo of the area (avoid showing any VIN/plates) and someone can point to the exact bolts/clips to undo. Let us know how it goes so others can benefit from your experience.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Before spending a lot on a big brake kit, make sure the basics are as good as they can be: check calipers for any sticking, give the system a proper fluid change and bleed, and try quality pads and discs first. Braided brake lines will usually sharpen pedal feel and consistency more than they will reduce ultimate stopping distance, so they are a sensible, relatively inexpensive upgrade to try alongside new pads and discs. If you do look at aftermarket big brake kits, the sites mentioned are useful places to start: RHDJapan, Blackhawk Japan, NeoTech in Korea, and sellers like GodSpeed who list Blitz and Endless options. Some kits I have seen include calipers, discs, pads, brackets and braided lines for around 1300 quid, but be careful about fitment. You will likely need specific disc sizes and carrier brackets, check wheel clearance and ABS sensor locations, and think about the extra unsprung weight and heat management. Good idea to get the service to report back on the calipers and lines tomorrow, and please let us know what they find and what you end up trying.

Nice setup, glad you are happy with it. Carpodgo T3 Pro can make Japanese head units feel a lot more modern with CarPlay. Folks here will often ask about whether you run it wired or wireless, which head unit model and firmware you have, and whether steering wheel controls, sound and reverse camera all work as expected. If you want to share a few details we can help further. Useful info is the head unit model and firmware, how you paired the T3 Pro, whether you updated the dongle firmware, and any niggles you have like dropouts or audio lag. Quick tips to try now: use a good quality USB cable for initial pairing, make sure the T3 Pro firmware and your iPhone iOS are up to date, and reboot the dongle if connection gets flaky. cheers

That matches what others have said. E Four is an electric AWD arrangement rather than a conventional part time 4WD system. The rear axle has its own motor that is used automatically for traction or efficiency, so you will not usually see a selectable 4WD switch or a driver operated locking differential. On some models a 4WD indicator only comes on to show a fault, and some trims show rear motor use in the hybrid display while others do not. Your plan to get a specialist mechanic or dealer to check it is sensible if you are unsure. Ask them to scan for hybrid drivetrain codes and to confirm the rear motor and control unit are functioning normally. If you can, post what they find so others can learn from it.