Geralt

I don't imagine there's a replacement with such a display but prepared to be proved wrong. Most likely the display will just be animation based on the states of some CAN signals that are monitored. I guess the key question is whether you control the hybrid system in any way through the head unit? If not, my hunch is that you're free to change it. You could always remove the existing unit before investing in a new one and go for a test drive. If it feels like it drives normally then, again, you should be good to go.

In my view, this unit is not 100% mechanically compatible with my Gen 1 Alphard even though it was described as being applicable to my vehicle. The fascia aperture is perfect but using the original brackets the HU sticks out too much and at the wrong angle so that the fascia cannot be replaced. Compare the HU’s below: both have several pairs of M5 screw holes for fitting to different models but the original has a pair of holes much closer to the front and higher up where the bracket was attached in my Alphard. It seems this front pair of screw holes is missing in the ERISIN so I’ve kept the brackets but ditched the screws and wedged the radio in. Once the fascia is in place the unit is adequately secured against the lower plastic prong shown at the end of the yellow arrow. I suppose it's a small price to pay for an otherwise good, value for money unit. ERISIN ORIGINAL HEAD UNIT

Sounds great and looking forward to your photos! I can't wait to get back out there. We have a couple of festivals booked already and keeping a close eye on the weekend weather forecast now spring is in the air.

Ours is a camper conversion and I like to have music on while I'm cooking, drinking and being beaten at Scrabble by my wife. The switch and diode D1 allows me to have the head unit operating without the keys in the ignition and switching on any other functions powered on by ACC. Ideally the switch should be installed in the rear of the vehicle somewhere but it will do for now.

Good point. Here you go. Override switch:

Unit now fully installed albeit with some mechanical difficulties which I'll report on later when the suppliers have got back to me. I went for a 30 minute test drive around south Birmingham. Offline Sat nav works smoothly with Sygic. Route re-calculation pretty swift when wrong turn taken. Key pushes respond in good time. DAB reception was flawless although I was just driving around Birmingham. Rural areas are a different prospect of course. Music sound reproduction is good with pleasant bass and oomph. So far, so good.

Updated diagram with all items connected. D1 and override switch is to enable the radio whilst we're in the back of the van, i.e. without keys in ignition. The red wiring is allow running the radio from the leisure battery although I haven't done that part yet.

Here's my draft wiring diagram. E&OE.

You might want to follow my thread here. Have posted link to SWC adapter and other info. Am doing most of the wiring this weekend.

In the SWC settings it tells you to press a button on the steering wheel then asks you to pick from a long list of possible functions to assign it for short and long presses. You can choose what you like for any button so + does not have to be volume up although I can't think why you would choose anything else unless you want to be mischievous.

I'm guessing that accepting emissions measurement evidence from a garage is open to fraud and probably not worth the admin for a handful of vehicles, relatively speaking. However, it is possible to provide alternative evidence for ULEZ exemption from the manufacturer in the form of a homologation certificate. Unfortunately I don't know if that is available for early Alphards of which mine is one.

This unit works with the left hand Alphard switches (<>,+-,MODE) directly (electrically speaking) but the existing SWC connector in the vehicle does not plug straight into the unit so, if you prefer, you can use an adapter connector or you can just wire it in directly with connector block or soldering. I happen to have a mating connector left over from the XTRONS installation. Here's a pic of my situation: I found the connector available here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334552676958 BTW, you have to program the steering switch functions but you can program short AND long presses for a single swicth to be different functions thereby effectively doubling the number of steering wheel switches.

Hello All, I'm installing this head unit from Audio Tech Direct: https://www.erisin.co.uk/products/erisin-es8112c-8-core-android-100-car-stereo-dab-gps-satnav-for-toyota-hilux-rav-4-corolla-vios-4g-wifi-bluetooth-carplay-dsp Thought I'd log anything others might find useful as I go along. Operation seems fairly quick compared to an XTRONS unit I had installed before which was the main reason for replacement. The XTRONS was infuriating to use. One problem with the new HU is that my Google Pixel 6a will pair but not connect by Bluetooth. Other phones do connect to the HU (i.e. Samsung S22, Sony Xperia XZ1) and the Pixel 6a connects to other devices including my car, the old XTRONS unit (typical!) and various audio devices in the home. Clearly there’s some kind of incompatibility for this device combination. The only time this would be a problem for me is streaming music while occupying the back of the van. My workaround at the moment, is to use an high quality (aptX) BT audio adapter located in the storage compartment below the radio and connect via the AUX input on the HU. The plus side is that this would be better quality audio (aptX) than the built in BT (A2DP). Whether this is a noticeable difference in a van environment, I'm not sure yet. Android Auto works via USB cable with my Pixel 6a but I won't be using it like this most of the time.

Agreed. Measured just above the line where the water jets are located.

Ok, will have a go at measurement on Friday if not before unless others can measure sooner. Mine is a 2003. Not sure if any face lifts changed the shape of the bonnet, so keep that in mind also.

The bonnet is convex (from memory) so do you want the chord line from one end of the bonnet to the other or do you want the length of a piece of string laid across the top?

It's also worth reading the post about how to do partial translation using Chrome.

The link is in the fourth post in this thread.

I had to miss October's event so looking forward to this one. Maybe Silverstone? Never been but they seem to have camping built in. https://www.silverstone.co.uk/visit-stay/camping

Hmm. And this only started happening after you replaced the battery? Does sound like a wiring fault but struggling to think why that would occur from just changing the battery.

That's the front fog light indicator, very weird that it comes on when you brake. Does this happen when stationary? When you say flash, you mean intentionally flashing by the instrument cluster or do you mean flickering? In the photo is the lamp permanently on or have you captured Do you know if the fogs come on when this occurs?

How about these: https://odysseycarpets.co.uk/products/Toyota-Alphard-Vellfire-Full-Mat-Set-Series-II-2008-2015-p400080093

Maybe a dodgy Idle Speed Control Valve or wiring. Try disconnecting it and see if the problem remains first off.

They all plug into the same J1962 (OBD) connector so no need to worry about that. As to spec, you need to check with the scanner supplier but generally look for JOBD.

I think only Toyota, DENSO or the part supplier can answer the question. Part numbers can change due to improved design or cost reduction. It does not necessarily mean they are incompatible but it's impossible to tell. Did you check you had replaced the correct sensor by disconnecting the other one?