Geralt

If it's anything like my 2.4L, H is behind the headlight close to the bonnet and L is also behind but below the headlight and about 6" towards the radiator.

I thought you had the barrel replaced already?

You're welcome. Glad to hear it was useful and you're back on the road.

Can't say I have. Sounds like something isn't quite right with the suspension. I have removed the side skirts on mine because I found that I couldn't engage the scissor jack if I needed to change a tyre!

Do you mean strange as in suspicious? I think that if you're going to the trouble of importing a vehicle, then it makes sense to import lower mileage examples with higher resale values.

I don't know the grouping but as a guideline I am a 50+ male in Birmingham and keep my 2003 2.4L camper on the drive. I pay less than £400 for my insurance. The company is Safeguard. https://www.safeguarduk.co.uk/ A true measure of an insurance company is when you need to claim but I haven't needed to yet.

Thanks for your advice on this @Rojie My foam is indeed wedge shaped and I got it custom cut online but like I say, it's bulky. It's the only thing that annoys me about my rear kitchen set-up. I might look into the frame you mention. I have standard velour seats with leatherette aftermarket covers so I think I could try this with low risk.

For those of us with rear kitchen conversions and beds using middle seats, just curious, do you sleep with your head at the engine end or the boot end? Also, how do you get on with the dips in the middle seats? Do you fill them with foam or something similar please? I have to carry around foam blocks to fill the dips. It gives a good night's sleep but are very bulky to carry around.

Ah, I see, you mean the wheel nut torque settings? I wonder if Danny is referring to the torque required for the various lock nuts after adjusting the suspension components for wheel alignment. I guess Kwik Fit don't want to be liable if a problem happens after just guessing at the torque.

Having said that, my actual cap says 108kPa on it.

Looks like the thermostat had several changes for the Gen 1 which might explain the multiple part numbers: Your 2007 therefore most likely uses 909160316. Not sure why there's no third gasket part listed. For the avoidance of doubt, put your VIN into Partsouq: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Toyota then click this picture: As to fitting, I am a DIY mechanic. With that in mind, I would drain and keep the coolant by temporarily removing the lower radiator hose. Then remove the hose attached to the thermostat housing, then remove the two bolts of the housing. Replace the thermostat and gasket and reassemble and refill coolant. Go for a spin to remove air from the system and top up.

I could not find wheel alignment specs in my copy of the JPNZ owner's manual. What page are you looking at please?

Get Stroud to ring Kwik Fit Kings Heath to find out how to access the right database.

Good video. It shows that the "doors open" light remains on when you attempt to crank. That probably means your battery is fine. The OBD reader not being powered could be the OBD fuse gone. That's fuse 10 in the box by the driver's seat.

While this is a good thing to have, this is only of relevance if the check engine light is illuminated while the engine is on. It might not tell you why it doesn't crank.

Yep. That's the one I have.

Thompson's uPVC Restorer. It's available at £7 from B&Q but these results are from my ten year old bottle. The formula may have changed since then. The job cost me about 15 mins for both lights plus 2 J cloths. Here's my before and after picture:

You need to hold the windows up rather than down. From the manual: 1. Ignition on. 2. Half open the window. 3. Pull switch to fully close and keep pulled for about a second after closing. I did not know this myself but apparently there is a light on the window switch which flashes when the window is not initialised. It stops flahsing and stays on when initialised.

I finally got around to getting the wheel alignment done on my Alphard and turns out not all Kwik-Fits can/will do it. I made an appointment at Kwik-Fit Cotteridge. They saw my van and expressed doubt they had the specs but I told them I'd seen the specs with my own eyes, they just needed to choose the Japanese database. They tried but failed so I left unaligned. I then showed up at Kwik-Fit Kings Heath unannounced. They seem to be able to find the Alphard Gen 1 model range no problem. I just need to confirm the model number, e.g. ANH10W. It was done in less than 30mins. So if Kwik Fit say they can't do it, they just need to phone the Kings Heath branch to find out how.

No need to worry. That engine has a chain.

https://deflectors.eu/en/product/wind-deflectors-external-fit-for-toyota-alphard-2002-2008г-5-doors-4-pcs-front-and-rear/

Thanks for the tip. Have just bought the standard cover. https://fuellagoon.co.uk/products/toyota-alphard-screen-cover-plain

You’re welcome.

Does the transmission lock when you put it in P? If so then I would have said the neutral start switch is at fault. Unfortunately this looks like it's part of a larger (expensive) assembly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284380915797 I would attempt to check the output of the switch before ordering parts though. Pin 1 is Park output and Pin 2 is Reverse. Looks like you just need to check for 12V. The following is for sonar connections so it only shows pins 1, 2 and 3 in the diagram: I wouldn't use WD40 to clean electrical connectors. It's a lubricant, not a contact cleaner as far I know.

I inferred from the question that the regular garages don't have the data to do the alignment but I was pleasantly surprised to find that Kwikfit do indeed have the Alphards on their systems if anybody was wondering. Bizarrely though they don't have torque settings for the wheel nuts so after they'd changed a tyre for me they were then unable, legally speaking, to put the wheel back on! They offered me the trolley jack and air gun for me to do it myself which I suppose shows willing.