Geralt

I doubt it but you could try removing the radio fuses temporarily. They are fuses 6 and 9 as shown in the post below. Normally, the unit should recover when the battery voltage is high enough, i.e. when the engine is running. It is more likely that it is faulty or there is a loose earth somewhere.

Does what exactly?

Here's one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255281417490

My view would be that when you have ignition on all the ECUs are consuming power and much of it is wasted as heat hence a fan will come on consuming even more energy. OK, next to actually travelling it's not very much. Nonetheless, that consumed energy will need to be replaced by a higher charging current when your engine is running. So it simply costs you fuel that you might otherwise not burn. I don't have a hybrid but I imagine when you move off you are just using the traction motor. I cannot imagine that what you are doing is reducing stress on the motor and therefore extending its life.

Have you checked that the main switch above the rear view mirror is set to 'DOOR'?

Sounds like the shift lock solenoid might be stuck. You could just try and replace but I would try to diagnose it first by applying a voltage across it to see if it actuates. On second thoughts, probably not having read the post again.

Thanks for letting us know the outcome.

I think you're right to be cautious. Ditto everybody else and those A/C buttons look more worn that I'd expect for 60,000 miles.

I don't have your generation vehicle but in my owner's manual, there are some instructions for bulb removal. If you don't already have the owner's manual, then it's worth your while to get one for all the other questions you may have. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toyota-Vellfire-Hybrid-Petrol-2011/dp/1869765125/ref=pd_vtp_h_pd_vtp_h_sccl_3/261-6625444-0842654?pd_rd_w=pGS6q&content-id=amzn1.sym.0024c6b5-da90-4821-b6c0-667e7c129058&pf_rd_p=0024c6b5-da90-4821-b6c0-667e7c129058&pf_rd_r=S4QQNXJPRQ84Q6EHW94R&pd_rd_wg=bnaO6&pd_rd_r=45efb97e-28fa-4b4f-9772-b1d0e8563e12&pd_rd_i=1869765125&psc=1

Michael, When you say "engine off", do you mean ignition off as opposed to combustion engine off?

Could be the window needs programming. Just hold the switch up for a few seconds after it hits the top. Should be automatic after that.

I could be wrong but think the model is too early to use Techstream to change body control functions. Is it possible they've just disconnected the motor that drives the door?

Many thanks for letting us know what the solution was.

The first step is the part number. Put your VIN into PartSouq. Here's the front bumper: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=TOYOTA00&ssd=%24*KwHe6vuSnr67p9Wpg9jhyIaSsrWr2tXY2cvk15-Zqr6ipqSn4vXZs52Znay6o7L06ePe16unvKWruvGb77qThKuXz57Kj5n9zsHIiM7X2ZXLzs6IrZHJj4SOyo-Ii86Lg4_O18jdh46VzsHIgoLP0MqAiZbc39OizpCUntzf55fPiYjO18rKgoqS3dzaycDNyIHBmZ3Mz7qqvqynypmbhYGOyNHMz6u8_YqXu8C6rbSqqMqZm4WajsjRzM_Y3YLshcDNyI2FicjSlYraAAAAAMZ2lH8%3D%24&vid=0&cid=3&uid=364863&q= Part number 5211958080C0. Available here: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/5211958080c0

Thanks but that's how I started the topic: V18 with Win 10. The VM was just an experiment. In my latest post, I explain that my laptop and cable works with a 2004 hybrid so most likely it's the specific 2002/2003 2.4L ECM software that's at fault.

That's correct. MOT emissions test doesn't measure carbon dioxide (CO2) only the more immediately toxic emissions: Hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO).

I haven't noticed the same on mine. - Does it fluctuate while idling? - Is your coolant level OK? - Does the needle move so quickly that you can see it move?

@kev1839 described a button on the driver's door. It locks/unlocks all the doors. Here's a pic:

Get hold of a JOBD reader (e.g. Ancel JP700). Use it to clear DTCs then see if the fault re-appears.

I happened to use Techstream v17 (same laptop, same MVCI cable) on a 2004 hybrid and it worked without an issue. This problem must be confined to my model year (2002) or my vehicle. Again, I'd appreciate if anybody who has got Techstream to work with a 2002 or 2003 model to confirm please.

Is there a reason you can't post their details publicly?

Perhaps give these guys a call? https://www.autodc.co.uk/home/ecu-test-and-repairs.html

I think you need a more methodical approach rather just changing parts. Use a multimeter to check the voltages are correct at the correct points when you try to crank. We have access to the wiring diagrams albeit with Japanese annotations.

@lucasmcspucas is right. The Japanese do YY-MM-DD. You should select the first option. However, the level of Techstream diagnostics on the Gen 1 pre-facelift is very limited. You can talk to ABS, Airbag and Engine ECU and that's about it. Fingers crossed that's all you need.

You mean it gave you the fault code but didn't expand on their meanings? If so, then the Ancel JP700 is unlikely to tell you more. You probably need Techstream instead: