Geralt

Thanks but not sure the solution to a problem is to forget about the problem. My tent was once burgled while I was in it. Difficult to forget about that. Anyway, during this weekend's trip I realised that I could just remove the driver's headrest and leave it in the footwell. Reaching the door lock button then becomes much easier.

I'm in the rear of my 2003 camper settled in for the night but want to lock all the doors and rear hatch. I click the central locking button on the key fob and all is good until I get up for a trip to the toilets at 3AM. I unlock a side door with the lock lever and open the door. Suddenly I've woken the entire campsite due alarm going off...and I've done this more than once. Of course what I should have done is use door lock switch in the driver's door but getting to it from the rear of the van is a bit of a struggle. Have I missed a trick? Is there a way to lock all the doors from the rear compartment comfortably without setting the alarm? Thank you.

You reported on your other post that ABS AND Check Engine Light were on. The two are not interdependent so coincidentally you must have (had?) an engine emissions failure. So is your check engine light (MIL) still on? I would be surprised if it wasn't because my hunch is the MOT limits are more relaxed that the car's on board diagnosis. If so, the code(s) putting on the MIL can be read by JOBD reader. I have the same vehicle as you and the Ancel JP700 works fine. I'm guessing you probably have a MAF sensor problem. If it can't measure air flow correctly then fuel delivery will be out of whack.

Probably, but why not replace just the one that's broken? Contact these people with your VIN and they'll tell you the right one to buy. https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/estima-hybrid-2.4i-bank1-oxygen-sensor

Very useful. Thank you very much.

As promised, I hear a click too coming from a similar area in my van. Whatever the click is (probably a relay), it is normal operation and is not the cause of your problem.

Why do you think it's the problem? I'm not following your logic here given the problem you face. If you can rotate the ignition barrel and start the car, then there's probably nothing wrong with it. Are you just wanting to replace a part that happens to click? A click is usually a good sign: A relay actuating or a solenoid moving. If the problem really is the shifft lock solenoid (TBD), then this is the part 85431-58010: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8543158010 Not surpisingly it's attached to the gear shift lever, not the steering column.

I'll check tomorrow what I hear in my van.

Then just the P/N switch, solenoid or something mechanical remains the issue. Since you hear a click with ignition on and foot on brake, it could be the solenoid and P/N switch are OK but something mechanical is broken. If I were you I would remove the fascia and try to reach and examine it visually.

The next easiest thing to check is the brake light switch. Are your brake lights coming on?

Does it exit Park with the shift lock release button pressed?

I believe it is intended to be plugged in contnuously. I think these devices only work with OBD data. The list of PIDs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs) does not include economy in mpg. It does however have a fuel rate in litres per hour and odometer reading. Assuming your vehicle supports these PIDs, it will be the app receiving this data that will make a fuel economy calculation for you if it even has that as an option, I'm not sure. Are you looking to monitor and adjust your driving style to minimise fuel consumption? You could just look at L/hr in that case.

Possibly. Depends if the AFS control module is connected to the diagnostic system. My 2003 van for example will only talk to ECM and ABS via K-Line. However your later model might have most of the modules available over CAN. If so, it should have a logged DTC which will help you diagnose the problem.

Which is here: https://xtrons.co.uk/usb-to-rca-output-adapter-usbrca

That model doesn't have video out but the website says you can buy an adapter: https://xtrons.co.uk/universal-double-din-android-12-octa-core-2gb-ddr4-ram-32gb-rom-te124

Medium. Here's the RAV4 manual says about it: https://www.trav4.net/radiator-545.html I think at the very least you need some hose clamp pliers.

There doesn't seem to be any video out on the label. Can you tell me the XTRONS model so I can find the manual?

Any spare GND on any connector on the head unit will do.

2 is ILLumination DETection. i.e. This input triggers the illumination of your head unit when you've switched on your vehicle lights. Not 100% sure but 4 is an output to an active antenna amplifier. Just checking. The XTRONS label you posted is the new HU you're installing, right? When you asked the question originally, I thought you didn't have the pin out information but since you do you can just ignore my picture.

@smurf is right. You've got to connect SWG (Green) to GND. Any spare GND on any connector on the head unit will do. Then don't forget to program the switches in head unit settings.

I'm not so sure now. @Voodoo101 thinks that volume etc comes over CAN. I don't think I'm helping here so think I'll bail. You need to find someone with Gen 2 experience. Sorry.

I tried lookin for Gen 2 wiring diagrams but could not find them. I can only advise what I found out for my Gen 1 in the hope that it might be the same/similar on yours. The SWC button resistor ladder is connected like this: Where for you SWC1 = KEY-1 etc.....probably. So I would look for Yellow/Black, Brown/Yellow and Red/Yellow wires coming from the right hand side of the centre console. The J10 connector looked like this: If you can get the wiring diagrams, you can identify the wire colours.

No, they don't. The early Gen 1 Alphard doesn't. Your 2012 van does of course.

Sorry, that's garbage. I do have guidelines but they don't move for reasons mentioned above. My older van doesn't have CAN anyway.

I don't have any guidelines on my HU camera.