Geralt

Hi Sorin, The two 2SW wires you mention, can you confirm which pin numbers they go to and what their colours are? The photo is not clear enough for me.

Did the SWC work with the old unit?

Looks like it could be this pin out:

I don't know anything about Civics sorry. You're better off Googling for some pics or videos.

There's possibly no plug and play solution but if your handy with electrics you could start with one of these but be prepared to cut and solder where needed: https://uk.vicedeal.com/products/16-pin-for-toyota-iso-wiring-harness-car-radio-adaptor-connector-wire-plug-kit

Don't turn ignition off. Read the code while the light is illuminated. Sounds odd but in this case it doesn't matter. The P code meaning is the same for any brand. The important things is that you've got the code. I guess you need to remove the EGR valve, clean it and check again. If the code comes back you probably need to replace the valve.

You live and learn! Thank you for the info.

If the EML comes on there must be a DTC when it is illuminated. Can you stop the car when it comes on then connect your scanner without switching off ignition?

My local Toyota dealer said they would service my 03 Alphard it but not repair it.

I think the DOT spec means you don't need to use Toyota brand you can use any DOT3. I would certainly not devaite, however, from the DOT3 specified.

Unless you're a taxi driver or chauffeur, my advice is to turn off the power doors. The soft close still works in this state which is ideal when you don't want to wake your camping neighbours returning from the pub/3AM trip to the toilet block.

Thank you. That's not far off the gross weight for any of the variants. Sounds like the exchange of seats for the conversion is an equal swap weight wise.

I see what you mean now. This is called regenerative braking. If you have ever got a small (Scalextric type) motor and connected the terminals together then the motor becomes hard to turn with your fingers when otherwise it would spin freely. The motor has been reversed into a generator. This effect is used when you hit the brake pedal while moving. The kinetic energy of the car is turned into electrical energy and the car slows down (braked) in the process. The electrical energy is used to recharge the battery where normally the kinetic energy is lost as heat in the brake disc. However you would need to do a lot of braking to recoup the energy lost from starting the engine by this method in isolation. Your battery will recharge just fine from the driving part via the alternator.

If you start it with jump leads you should drive for about half an hour to recharge your battery. This assumes your battery is in otherwise good condition. Not sure what you mean about pressing the brake pedal to recharge.

After removing four heavy seats for the conversion, I'd be surprised if there's a significant increase. Would be interesting to know for sure of course.

Yes, we'll done indeed. Thanks for reporting back the rather more positive outcome. I'm sure it will empower a few other owners who might find themselves in a similar position in future.

What did happen?

Which one did you buy? Didn't it come with adapter cables?

The Ancel only does legislated, engine management codes as far as I know. An ABS failure won't impact emissions control. It's not really clear how you got a code but if the system is saying it is the rear right sensor then it probably is the rear right sensor. As Picasso mentioned, you can get better info using Techstream. You need a laptop and a £20 MVCI cable. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

Welcome! Brace yourself, you might get a load of questions now that you're our contact in South East Asia for parts and know-how!

Hi Catweazle, That's great, thank you! Likewise, let me know if you need anything. In case you don't have it, I have Techstream working if you need any diagnosis.

Thought I'd try to reach out to fellow Alphard owners in south Birmingham and surrouding areas: Solihull, Redditch etc. I have a 2003 2.4L camper rear conversion from New Dawn. Would be great to have a few contacts within driving distance in case a face to face meet up would be beneficial. There's no substitute for seeing vehicles in the flesh for diagnosis, comparing modifications, checking functions and so on.

Looks like the cost of replacement would be around 7k. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202309111807599?sort=relevance&advertising-location=at_cars&fuel-type=Petrol&make=Toyota&maximum-mileage=90000&model=Alphard&year-from=2002&year-to=2003&fromsra 4k is taking the p*ss.

I sympathise. I don't get it though. OK it's 7.5K worth of damage but if your insurance company is successful in recouping the costs from the other driver, I wouldn't have thought that it matters how much it is. Is it too late to take up the offer of direct settlement with the oher driver now you know how much to ask for? One thing I've learned though is perhaps I/we should get an "agreed value" policy next time it's up for renewal.

Sounds like the A/C panel connectors are not fully home into the fascia.