Geralt

How about these: https://odysseycarpets.co.uk/products/Toyota-Alphard-Vellfire-Full-Mat-Set-Series-II-2008-2015-p400080093

Maybe a dodgy Idle Speed Control Valve or wiring. Try disconnecting it and see if the problem remains first off.

They all plug into the same J1962 (OBD) connector so no need to worry about that. As to spec, you need to check with the scanner supplier but generally look for JOBD.

I think only Toyota, DENSO or the part supplier can answer the question. Part numbers can change due to improved design or cost reduction. It does not necessarily mean they are incompatible but it's impossible to tell. Did you check you had replaced the correct sensor by disconnecting the other one?

Actually forget that. It seems to work now. Apologies...and thanks for finding the info again.

Hey @Chris.ac, I followed your example above but Chrome refuses to translate. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Do you have any suggestions please?

It's definitely fuse 8 in main engine compartment....but it's definitely not a fuse problem. You can see in the attached diagram that the sensor heaters share a fuse with a bunch of other stuff including the fuel pump. If the fuse had gone you wouldn't be able to start the engine.

There may not be a fuse just for the oxygen sensors but there's more than one Engine Computer fuse in the list here: Having read the list, there doesn't seem to be a fuse for each sensor so it's unlikely that is the cause is a fuse otherwise you would get two P-codes.

You probably have the right sensor but to make absolutely sure, disconnect the other sensor. You should get additional P-Code(s), possibly P0141, if you have identified the correct sensor. The P-code is saying the heater circuit is faulty so that potentially includes a high resistance anywhere from ECM circuit board or relay through the connectors and harness. Have you checked all the fuses? Check any harness connections all the way to the ECM connector. Examine for corrosion on the connector pins, clean with contact cleaner if looking dodgy. The resistance of the heater circuit should be less than 10 ohms or thereabouts, if it's much higher then there's a broken cable somewhere. Once you've checked all those then the only likely candidate is the ECM. I can see some on ebay but it is possibly complicated by immboliser codes and such so may not be plug and play. Maybe someone has replaced theirs on this forum.

What would be the thinking behind that?

Same P code?

Thanks for telling us the outcome. Good to know.

The URL is misleading. If you search for "Alphard Lambda" and click on the following... ...it takes you to the 2.4L part. We can infer then that the 2.4L lambda sensor (there's only one) is the same part number as the 3.0L rear sensor....or they might have made a mistake. Either way I think you need to check with them if you need front or rear.

I guess it could be either of these two: https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-mnh10-15-30-v6-petrol-2002-08-lambda-oxygen-02-sensor?search=alphard lambda&category_id=0 https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-24-petrol-2002-08-rear-lambda-oxygen-02-sensor?search=alphard lambda&category_id=0 I guess front and rear translate to Bank 1 or 2. In principle there should not be any difference between bank 1 and 2 so the difference could be harness length or the connectors might be different for poka-yoke. Maybe give them a call with the P-Code and they could advise which one to buy?

That I do not know sorry. I just used to work in engine management software but don't have any knowledge of the Alphard in particular. I'm confident someone here will know which part to get.

It's screwed into the exhaust, one of two, upstream of the cat converter. Should just require a spanner I imagine. But before you buy another sensor, clear the code and swap bank 1 with 2. Ensure the diagnosis moves to bank 2. If it doesn't it could be your ECM at fault. Note it may require two drive cycles to diagnose. I'm assuming that both sensor heaters use the same fuse.

I have found Audio Tech Direct very helpful. Tell them what you have and what you want and they will advise. sales@audiotechdirect.com https://audiotechdirect.com/ If you can do basic auto electrics, it's doable.

The effect of oxygen sensor *upstream of the cat converter is that the control the air-fuel ratio (lambda) becomes crude (open loop control). Emissions will exceed legal levels and ultimately you won't get an MOT. I think what you're asking is whether this will cause engine damage. You should be fine driving to a garage or car parts store and so on. Note there's two oxygen sensors: One upstream and one downstream of the cat converter. Be sure which one is faulty from the OBD P-CODE.

Totally agree. The driver moves the pedal to achieve a particular vehicle speed. This is turned into a torque demand calculation. Any engine ECU in the last 20 odd years modifies the injection time (among other parameters) to meet the torque output required for the demanded speed. In the case of a lower energy density fuel (e.g. E10) the injection time per stroke will simply be increased to achieve the same torque as a higher energy density fuel, all other things being equal. For the average driver, performance should be no different but it will consume more fuel per stroke and thus lower MPG. Rubber risk notwithstanding (if it even exists on these engines), the key metric when financially comparing the two fuels is pence per mile not MPG. Each individual can only calculate that for themselves.

Yep. Around 30 per year in the UK according to the Met Office. Granted they're not the monsters seen in the US!

Buy a JOBD tester and it should tell you which cylinder(s) has a misfire. I don't know if the V6 has stick coils or not but consider replacing the coil and plug on the identified cylinder. The ANCEL JP700 tester works on my 2003 2.4L.

Yes, I have the same but I took out the Toyota HU for some something in English but it doesn't connect to the old DVD box under the pass seat. The DVD player is just dead weight and waiting for me to remove it.

I think your speedo will over-read and the ABS calibration won't be optimal.

Looks like position 25, passenger side fuses.

On the assumption that's it's fallen to the floor, you could try to pull out the carpet from underneath the console. This might leave you a gap to fish it out.