Geralt

Try an engine rebuild specialist. https://crautoengineering.co.uk/about-us

There's a recommendation here.

Am confused. Who did you have in mind to change the engine then? If it helps, it's the same engine as Camry V6. If you get hold of a Haynes workshop manual that should be enough to persuade them to do the job.

Sounds like it is the head gasket. You don't need a new engine. You need the heads removing, check for warping and skimmed if so then reassembling. Any good garage would do that.

Thanks for coming back with the root cause and solution, good to know. I suppose that means Selky's problem is going to have a different cause becuse his tacho isn't working also.

Here's one in Derby: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255894296120 Try @Picasso He's local so may be able to help.

It's unlikely that the motors for both tacho and speedo have broken at the same time. It's a little more likely that there's some internal common motor drive power supply problem. Much more likely is that you have a dodgy connector disrupting the TAC+ and SI input signals as shown in this post: But, if so, you should also see a P0500, Vehicle Speed Sensor DTC which you should confirm with an OBD reader. @Wisey Was your tacho working when you had a similar problem? What was your fix in the end please?

Not much to go on Roger but sounds like the sort of thing installed here:

Or the switch. I'd pop out the switch and short circuit its wires to check if the window operated.

Are you an AA member? As far as I know they can handle the process for you at no extra charge. Just an idea.

The Ancel JP700 works. It will give you the DTC that is illuminating the MIL (check engine light). Beyond that you need Techstream running on a laptop with an MVCI cable. Certianly not the 2003MY as I know from my own experience. You can see my project notes here in case it helps but I don't have the complication of the theatre sound system.

You could do worse than to get an OBD reader which will tell you the reason why the check engine light is illuminated. They're very easy to use and means you'll be well informed when talking to garages about your problem. The Ancel JP700 device will work on your vehicle.

Congrats and thanks for letting us know the outcome. Where did you get the good alternator from please?

I think the part is 7321058010A0. Brace yourself, they aint cheap and I could not find one on eBay in the UK. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/7321058010a0

Try https://partsouq.com/ You should get something like this: If not, sounds like it's been written down wrong on the auction sheet.

No relay as far as I can see. If you PM me, I'll send you the charging circuit diagram.

I sympathise but there's a lot going on there. Given the intermittent nature of the problem and the fact that you've replaced both battery and alternator, it sounds like a dodgy connection or earth somewhere.

Well done! Glad it's working. I guess the installer didn't finsh the job.

You guess right. If all else fails one idea is to wire a resistor in parallel with the new LED bulb to increase the current. If the old bulb was, for example, 6W, that would be 0.5A at 12V. From P = I^2 x R R = P / I^2 R = 6W / 0.5A^2 = 24 Ohms. You need to calculate your current from your bulb power of course. So in this example, a 6W / 24 Ohm resistor is the target. With a power safety factor you could try these 10W parts. They do a 25 Ohm: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265460044257 The same principle is used here but these are 6 Ohms (25W) which would be 2A at 12V and is too much for an indicator: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/12v-led-load-resistor.html

ANCEL JP700 works on my 2003 2.4L. It does not work however on my 2011 BMW so I have separate OBD2 reader for that. I doubt you'll find one that does both cars.

No longer it seems. There's one avilable here: https://easymanuals.co.uk/product/toyota-alphard-ah20-workshop-and-wiring-manual-2008-to-2011/

Assuming you buy it, could you let us know what you think please?

LH: 6817258010 https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/anh10w/24294/body/6751/68172A/ RH: 6817158010 https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/anh10w/24294/body/6751/68171B/ I wonder if they've just become dislodged and need snapping back in?

Full Russian to English instructions given here:

Sounds like a plan. Just to be clear then: - They may need this connector: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334552676958 - The vehicle wire colours they are looking for are: SWC1 : Yellow & Black SWC2 : Red & Yellow GND: Brown & Yellow. Good luck!