Djakninn

If it hasn't been done already, i would also get it undersealed. I don't think the Japanese cars seem to have the same level of protection as cars supplied here in the UK. I've had my previous 2 x cars done with Dinitrol, but decided to try Bilt Hamber this time. The guys at the body shop are going to start using it, as they said it was a lot better to work with. I used the clear wax as well as the chassis rail cavity wax, so you can keep an eye out on anything untowards underneath the car.

Mostly because of the 'Shaken' - Japanese version of the MOT. When purchased new, the car is given a 3 year certificate, after which a test has to be renewed every 2 years i think at a cost of approx £1000. As the regulations are as strict, a lot of people offload their cars for a new one after this time, also, the manufacturers generally face-lift the cars pretty regular to make new car sales more attractive and in doing this along with some other factors causes massive depreciation. TBH, as long as you did your homework and bought from a reputable dealer/importer over here i wouldn't be too worried. That glass could easily have been on the bottom of someones shoe. Usually when the car's inspected, it should mention if panels have been replaced/repainted etc - Should be highlighted on the sheet as 'XX', see: http://www.jdmauctionwatch.com/auction-sheets/

Yeah, it is - fairly disappointing TBH, just keep posting and hopefully it encourages other to join in!

Follow this to the 'T' and it should work no problem with the smart fobs to open and close the doors (It looks convoluted, but worked for me on 1st attempt) Before starting make sure you have no mobile phone in your possession/close by. 1. Sit in the drivers seat - Driver door open, key out of ignition 2. Within 5 seconds, place key in ignition and take it out x 2 (Do not turn key) 3. Within 40 Seconds, close the drivers door and open x 2 4. Put key back in ignition (Do not turn key) and take it out 5. Within 40 Seconds, close the drivers door and open x 2 6. Key back in ignition and leave it in 7. Close drivers door 8. Turn key in ignition (Without starting car) 9. Turn key back and take key out of the ignition (The door locks should automatically do a cycle - If nothing happens, you've done something wrong and will have to restart the re-programming again from the start) Once the door locks have did their cycle : 10. Within 40 seconds press lock and unlock buttons on fob together for 2 secoonds 11. Then press lock button on fob for 2 seconds (The door locks should do a cycle again, if they do not complete a cycle, repeat step 10 and 11 again. If the door locks cycle twice, it also means that the re-programming has failed so repeat steps 10 and 11 again)

Adrian Flux £1890 with £3000 excess - Jeepers, that's crazy. I'm with Pace Ward who insured my Evo's and Subaru's - £400 fully comp. I'm 43 with full NCD - i don't think my insurance will ever go down, last few years all my quotes have been around that mark. Had a laugh with the lad on the phone at Direct Line - i think they quoted about £900. The bloke asked if i had 5 mins to spare for a wee experiment. Used the same details and put down the car as a Dodge Viper GTS - Came in at just under £700. Then put in for a Nissan GTR - Quote came back just a tad over £500!!!

Any chance you could PM me Ben Hau's contact details please - can't find anything here on the site or internet!

That's good you like the Helix. I get it at not a bad price and when you're used to chucking in Fucks Titan Pro S every 4000 odd miles into an Evo , it's cheap by comparison.

Sorry - of no help, but what braided lines are you fitting. I usually fit braided to all my cars, but couldn't see anything listed from HEL or Goodridge!

Thanks Trevor - and what intervals are you changing the oil at? I realise it's down to the type of driving, so a bit subjective, but does approx 5000 miles sound about right? I read somewhere Toyota states 7500 for the 1MZ-FE engine, but general consensus seemed to be around the 5000 mile mark. Also, was recommended Shell Helix Ultra ECT C3 Fully synthetic due to also having very good anti sludge properties : Shell Helix Ultra ECT 5W30 C3 benefits: + Shell’s advanced emissions-compatible technology for low- SAPS oil + Unsurpassed sludge protection + Low viscosity and low friction + Exceptional low-temperature performance + High resistance to mechanical stress + Low evaporation formulation + Shell’s ultimate active cleansing technology + Developed with special antioxidants Performance, Features & Benefits of Shell Helix Ultra ECT 5W30 C3 + Shell’s advanced emissions-compatible technology for low- SAPS oil Shell Helix Ultra ECT 5W30 C3 protects emission systems by helping to keep diesel particulate filters clean. + Unsurpassed sludge protection No other motor oil cleans your engine better than Shell Helix Ultra ECT 5W30 C3

As per title, what engine oil is everyone using? I see in the parts section Petronas Fully Synthetic 5w/30 ACEA A1/B1 is mentioned - Yet I can't find any Petronas 5w30 that has this spec??? So can anyone enlighten me to an alternative. Opie oils spits out a whole host of specs for the 1MZ-FE engine, all 5w/30, yet I see ACEA C2, C3, A5/B5, etc - can any of these be used? Also, what intervals are people changing at, I've read everything from 3k miles upwards.

Picked up the Alphard today and its great. It still has the Japanese head unit at the moment and have got it to play DVD's. However, how does the flip down monitor work? I assumed it would automatically show the picture as per the head unit just by flipping it down??? Is there something somewhere you need to press? For info it's a 2007 MS Premium Alacantra

CS3EP - Front and Rear camera adapter Thanks for that, was just on the Beat-Sonic site and saw the main kit mentioned to add CS-1, but couldn't find it, saw the CS3EP and was hazarding a guess that was the replacement 😃

What coolant is everyone using on here (Recommended manufacturer, etc) Couldn't find anything concrete while surfing!

How many cats are on the Alphard 3.0L? I believe the Elgrands have 4 and most owners remove the back 2 early on to stop problems that can affect the ones situated at the front - do the Alphards have a similar set up?

Hi, New to the forum and can't believe how little action there is! - Just away to get an Alphard so will start getting some new threads started for info on them.