Djakninn

Finally got time to look into my broken mid hinge on my sliding offside door. I have a new hinge and new rear door stop/moulding in hand. I thought once i had the moulding off that the middle hinge had enough space there to simply slide the broken unit out. As with anything with these Alphards, it doesn't seem to be the case. How is the mid hinge removed?

So do you mean pull the moulding towards the rear of the car while trying to rotate it down at the same time?

Having to replace the rear door middle door rail hinge as the pin snapped on it. It's been a sample enough job so far, but how is the Rear slide rail moulding removed. Looking at the parts catalogue it looks like it snaps into place. I gave it a gentle go but i get a little movement and nothing else. Obviously i don't want to break anything, so is there a knack to removing the moulding?

Ok, i was cleaning the Alphard after working away for 2 months. One of the rear seats was in the upwards position so that the wife could get shopping in and the other was in the normal position. I wanted to move the seat (NS) to the upwards position so i could clean the carpet, however, the seat would not slide forwards or backwards. I then lowered the seat on the other side (OS), clicked it into place and raised the back rest, and that seat will also not slide? Anyone ideas as to what the problem could be. The seats were working fine before i left. The only thing i know that happened when i was away, was that the wife ran the battery down. I didn't think that the locking mechanisms were electric, but mentioning just in case

Any update on this? With the new battery installed does the key fob still operate the doors correctly?

I got mine working, but it was ages ago and shortly after the picture died. It turned out that it was the flip down screen at fault, so i chucked it and replaced it with an alpine unit, which in truth turned out better as the kids can change the dvd themselves and also with Alpines IR headsets we don't have to suffer the sound of what they are watching.

See this thread : It's not so much the HU thats the problem, it's the connectors and harnesses required if you want it all to work correctly. I bought all my stuff through CarAudioExpress.co.uk and picked up a Pioneer HU through EBAY. It's not cheap to do it correctly, you will be looking at a fair layout excluding the HU - depends if you want everything working factory like i suppose.

Thanks again Alex : )

Apart from the strainer itself, the strainer gasket and oil, are there any other gaskets or that required to complete this job. Was having a look at the schematics and nothing was jumping out at me - but want to be certain.

Did you ever manage to get this sorted out David?

Thanks Alex - Yeah, what a chew to get a headlight out! I can pop one of the Volvo ones out in seconds. Is there any official diagrams showing all the bolt positions?

I use Pace Ward which look to be a bit cheaper than Mark Richards, for me at least. Although it's not just the price, PW have a very good rep should there be an accident, and as long as you declare a mod, they will replace it like for like should there be an accident. They're very popular with the Evo lads!

Alex, i'll be tackling this soon, do the wheel arch liners need to be removed to get the bumper off?

This is what i posted that works. I put this up for a fellow forum member and it worked for them too. I don't know though if these steps work for non-toyota transponders, hence why i bought Toyota FObs off the bloke on Ebay, anyways, you could give this a try (This is for the FOBS, not the KEY): Follow this to the 'T' and it should work no problem with the smart fobs to open and close the doors (It looks convoluted, but worked for me on 1st attempt) Before starting make sure you have no mobile phone in your possession/close by. 1. Sit in the drivers seat - Driver door open, key out of ignition 2. Within 5 seconds, place key in ignition and take it out x 2 (Do not turn key) 3. Within 40 Seconds, close the drivers door and open x 2 4. Put key back in ignition (Do not turn key) and take it out 5. Within 40 Seconds, close the drivers door and open x 2 6. Key back in ignition and leave it in 7. Close drivers door 8. Turn key in ignition (Without starting car) 9. Turn key back and take key out of the ignition (The door locks should automatically do a cycle - If nothing happens, you've done something wrong and will have to restart the re-programming again from the start) Once the door locks have did their cycle : 10. Within 40 seconds press lock and unlock buttons on fob together for 2 secoonds 11. Then press lock button on fob for 2 seconds (The door locks should do a cycle again, if they do not complete a cycle, repeat step 10 and 11 again. If the door locks cycle twice, it also means that the re-programming has failed so repeat steps 10 and 11 again)

You could just use the key and a separate remote : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-alphard-noah-estima-SMART-LOCK-fob-2005-to-2008-key/282849166668?hash=item41db1fc54c:g:zngAAOSwAhVahT4Z I bought one from this bloke and programmed it no problem. I think a key from Toyota is mega bucks unfortunately.

I have not - but i saved the following link as a favourite, if i decide to change the alloys on mine at some point. The guys blog has sizes from 18" up to 20" and offsets that work : http://alphardlandjohor.blogspot.com/2008/11/alphard-tyre-info.html

Must be true then on the hybrids. KM'S TO mph isn't a difficult calc. Even my wife could manage that all the years we ran unconverted Evo's 😜

Did you source a bike rack? That's something i would be interested in getting, though haven't really searched in depth yet!

I would speak to another garage, JM Inports is close by, i reckon they would know. Speedo convertion is as straight forward as any other car as far as i know on the non-hybrids, i can't see the hybrids being any different, though to be honest, i just used to run my previous imports in km's to keep the numbers correct. The only reason mine is in mph now as the importer changed it when doing the foglight and service.

Unfortunately, water has managed to get in somewhere, which is the top seal i reckon. But i really need to get it out so i can dry it out and sort it properly unfortunately. Is there any diagrams Alex of the bolts required to be removed for the bumper removal and how long does it approximately take? Why do you have the front end of yours BTW?

many bolts are there Alex, I counted 3 on the top. I then removed the grill. Is there another bolt near the wing side that requires the bumper to be removed? Any headlights I've removed in the past takes all of a few minutes - this seems mental having to remove a full bumper!

I've removed plenty headlights in my time, but i'm a bit stumped as how to remove the one on the Alphard. I printed off a parts diagram which shows the 2 x 10mm headed screws on the top. I also removed the scuttle panel bolt too. Now, the diagram shows a 3rd bolt situated down in the bottom corner???? I can't see this bolt for love nor money - Anyone give me any pointers to where this elusive 3rd bolt is? and is it a simple push out job once all the bolts are removed?

Nice - Really like that!

Mine came with Bridgestone Playz Japanese Market tires, and TBH i was thinking the worst when i saw them, as i've had to change the tires immediately on imports in the past, but they have been great in all conditions so far. Just organised to get a set of the new Vredestein Wintrac Pro's on next week. The Subaru was great with the Wintrac Extreme S on them, so hopefully these new updated ones should be great!

I usually use Camskill for tyres. At a quick glance the winter tyres i'm looking at are about £10 a corner cheaper than Tyreleader, but may not have the same selection unfortunately. I think it's a bit of hit and miss asking for tyre recommendations as everyone wants different things from a tyre and unless you're paying top dollar (eg Michelin PS2) there will be a trade off in one area or another. My commuting car, i swear by Uniroyal Rainsport 3 as their damp/wet grip performance is great (Up here in the NE of Scotland it's like that 75% of the time) - trade off is, they wear a bit faster and not awe inspiring in the dry - to put that into context though, that would be high speed hard braking on B roads. I put Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta's on the Subaru after a friend with an RS6 recommended them - one of the best tyres i used, but now discontinued - i think the Ultrac Satins are similar, i'll probably give them a try when i need a change.