MarkATH10W

Follow up. My engine is blown. metal shards in oil. game over.

If you read my threads, I suffered an engine failure and no start. Japanese mechanic found evidence of blown engine. This occurred up a steep incline @ highway speeds while stressing the engine. Good luck. I roughly had my vehicle for 2 months. It is now being shipped off to the wreckers with approx 110 thousand km. I will not be buying another ATH10W; nothing to support their repairs in north america.

old thread, but just wanted to point out that the original OEM is an AGM battery as well. Its completely sealed which is what i consider the main benefit as our batteries are inside the cabin. I've seen a lot of regular unsealed batteries leak,vent, etc...

Picasso, thank you for your reply. Appologies, no offense intended. I appreciate any help/sourcing/info that you provide. The documentation I have states that my vehicle identification is ATH10-0003548. Is that the number you are looking for? The vehicle is at the mechanics currently. I am awaiting battery diagnostics/reconditioning. I am trying to source cells in event that I have bad cells. So far, these are my leads: 1) I have heard that gen 1 prius cells may be compatable with our ATH10 Alphard hybrids; I have not cross referenced the Part numbers yet. 2) I may be able to buy a complete gen 1 rebuilt AHR10 estima hybrid battery pack; I do not know if this unit is useful, again I have not been able to cross reference any part numbers yet. I am open to any suggestions for any solutions that you provide. Cheers, Mark

0003548 Why do you ask?

If theres a scenario where we need to replace individual cells rather than an entire battery for the sake of cost savings, I've heard Gen1 Prius has hybrid battery cells. Im wondering if the Estima Hybrid has compatiable battery cells as well. Has anyone already performed such homework?

Thank you for the Replies. Were you able to pull any specific codes that hinted at what part of the hybrid system was failing? In my case, I don't get any dash lights. My ready light is on. Cheers, Mark

Our Alphard Hybrids have a belt based transmission, unlike 99% of the other toyotas which use a planetary gearbox. Perhaps the nissan mechanic can help you, as their CVT transmissions are notoriously bad...

Thank you. I need more information. I just purchased a "washinglee" brand ODB2 lead to work with tech stream Verion 14.30.023 PaulE shows that it can grab full codes about the hybrid battery system in this thread here:

That sounds super sketchy. Is it charging the battery the whole time as you descend to the bottom of the tunnel? What is the battery level according to the display on your the hybrid information system on your display? I wonder if it is cutting out to prevent overcharge; something to do with that?

Can you tell me which version of techstream you use? It is good news that you found a version of techstream that has full readings for the Alphard hybrid. It might be visible under the menu: Help > About *EDIT* I see that you are using version Ver 14.30.023 - 21084 from your screenshots. I am going to purchase the same washinglee lead. Cheers, Mark

thank you for your reply. i forwarded the same question to the mechanic, as P3000 is very generic. I can't justify replacing the entire battery without some more information if it doesn't actually fix it. I found these posts informative: https://www.torquenews.com/8113/toyota-prius-p3000-check-replacing-your-hv-battery https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/3383-hybrid-battery-condition-application/#comment-14043

Any ODB2 reader error codes you can share? Any mechanics you can recommend on the island or in BC? Cheers, Mark

Thank you for your reply: I am getting ready for the scenarios, if it can be properly diagnosed. 1) dead battery: (will techstream seems to be be able to see dead banks/cells of batteries according to threads in this forum? Dr prius app is not compatible according to threads in this forum). options: a) replacement from 3rd party battery manfuactoring is likely the way to go. b) cell level diagnosis and repair from specialty hybrid shop c) parts pull from japan... not going this route unless im desperate d) new battery from japan: $$$$$$ 2) dead inverter: a) purchase used from japan https://autoparts.beforward.jp/detail/Cooling-Components/Other-A-C-Parts/PA83949062/

Vehicle broke down on the side of the road a month ago without any engine management lights. Now it won't start. Dash lights looks OK, and ready light is on, but won't turn over. 2 shops have looked at the vehicle and they can't tell me what is wrong; auxiliary battery replaced. Im not sure that they are equipped to make precise diagnosis of the hybrid systems. They state that a P3000 code is coming up now. 1) Have any of you experienced the same issue? Where the ready light is on, but it appears that the vehicle won't attempt to start? 2) Beyond ODBII, is there a hybrid specific computer that needs to be scanned and read? 3) Im looking for some help as to what I should be looking at for a diagnosis? Cheers, Mark

Hi all. Hoping to find some answers? What are the symptoms of a total inverter failure? (will the vehicle start / run?) What are the related codes on the ODBII? Will replacing the inverter fix the problem? or is system complex and has many points of failure outside of the inverter box? Cheers, Mark

Gavins, my shuddering issue was caused by a extremely dirty MAF sensor. problem prevalent especially in hilly situations. CEL would turn on most times though. I thought it might have been a bad CVT, and did a drain and fill of the fluid. ANSEL JP700 code reader gave fuel system related warning (i have a long post on this forum). replaced MAF and issue went away.

Hi all, my van broke down on a freeway going up hill at high speed and under load and now won't start. Looking for help as to what the issue could be if you have had similar experiences. Over a 10 second period the following happened: -going up major hill at high speed, i felt a slight loss of power - I let off the gas pedal and re-engaged... no power response and engine mechanical sounds got much louder, then sound of a belt squeal, then a clunk that i felt in the drivetrain - car engine stops, but continues rolling and hybrid electric system is active and tries to compensate. Power steering is still on, brakes still work. - I pull over. Car wont start. I notice that my electrical system is wonky, I can't power slide the door shut, mirrors, etc. I believe my auxiliary battery is low. Hazard lights work for a while. - prior to the breakdown, no issues with the vehicle, no Check Engine Light, no warning lights that I can think of. Key Points: After the breakdown, my immediate thought is that my engine seized. After being towed, all fluids good, no belts that I can see have snapped. The nearly dead auxiliary battery is suspicious. Can this be related? Boosting the vehicle has no effect; the ready light flashes and stays flashing. I believe I can hear the vehicle attempting to start, but it sounds very weak I have no time to fully charge the aux battery. Vehicle was towed to a nearby random mechanic in a small town while I took my kids home, several hundred kilometers away. Looking for some expertise or experience regarding such issues?

All. Thanks for your responses. To clean/replace Do the sensors pop out from the front? If not, can i reach from behind without taking plastic bumper cover off? or does it require disassembly? Cheers, Mark

Hi all. I am trying to determine if my parking sensors require replacement: 1) front corner sensors seem to not beep until im very close to an object, and japanese lady starts talking... not really useful for helping me judge distances 2) rear corner parking sensors have never come on 3) rear center parking sensor have never come on 4) no errors indicated in the visual display upon turning the vehicle on... Is this a settings issues? or is this because they are fried?

Sounds like my alphard hybrid... but I have a CVT. I thought the transmisison was shot. culprit was the MAF sensor, but it threw a code on mine.

Correct. when going up inclines or accelerating at speed, it felt like a misshift in the CVT. but it turns out that it was caused by the MAF sensor. lean fuel error was thrown. Upon inspection of the MAF sensor, it looked very dirty. I replaced mine, but common practice is to clean first with MAF cleaner. The location of the MAF sensor is a pain compared to other toyotas and I didn't have time to experiment. Taking out the front fuse/battery terminal box will facilitate access (ull see what i mean once u attempt the job).

Just got it and tested and it works great, better than expect. 1) It works seemlessly everytime I turn on my vehicle and auto connects; i don't need to do anything to start or shut down 2) Sound quality is honestly amazing, on your phone's bluetooth profile for the device you can even turn on the LDAC / atpX HD setting for higher bitrate / sound quality... so make sure you do this. normal audio bluetooth sounds flat compared to this, and honestly blows the bluetooth to radio option out of the water, especially when the volume must be cranked up on the bluetooth to radio option... Im really happy with this device and my theather sound system on my alphard.

Thanks Info. I may just not go this route as I do not have the time to research. Bluetooth audio is the goal. Bluetooth to radio option doesn't work for me; quality is noticably worse. I have invested in an bluetooth to RCA Component box that automatically turns on and pairs with power and i hope that will work seamlessly with normal usage of my van, it is the 1Mii B06 Plus Bluetooth Receiver, HiFi Wireless Audio Adapter, Bluetooth 5.1 Receiver