MarkATH10W

thank you for your reply. i forwarded the same question to the mechanic, as P3000 is very generic. I can't justify replacing the entire battery without some more information if it doesn't actually fix it. I found these posts informative: https://www.torquenews.com/8113/toyota-prius-p3000-check-replacing-your-hv-battery https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/3383-hybrid-battery-condition-application/#comment-14043

Any ODB2 reader error codes you can share? Any mechanics you can recommend on the island or in BC? Cheers, Mark

Thank you for your reply: I am getting ready for the scenarios, if it can be properly diagnosed. 1) dead battery: (will techstream seems to be be able to see dead banks/cells of batteries according to threads in this forum? Dr prius app is not compatible according to threads in this forum). options: a) replacement from 3rd party battery manfuactoring is likely the way to go. b) cell level diagnosis and repair from specialty hybrid shop c) parts pull from japan... not going this route unless im desperate d) new battery from japan: $$$$$$ 2) dead inverter: a) purchase used from japan https://autoparts.beforward.jp/detail/Cooling-Components/Other-A-C-Parts/PA83949062/

Vehicle broke down on the side of the road a month ago without any engine management lights. Now it won't start. Dash lights looks OK, and ready light is on, but won't turn over. 2 shops have looked at the vehicle and they can't tell me what is wrong; auxiliary battery replaced. Im not sure that they are equipped to make precise diagnosis of the hybrid systems. They state that a P3000 code is coming up now. 1) Have any of you experienced the same issue? Where the ready light is on, but it appears that the vehicle won't attempt to start? 2) Beyond ODBII, is there a hybrid specific computer that needs to be scanned and read? 3) Im looking for some help as to what I should be looking at for a diagnosis? Cheers, Mark

Hi all. Hoping to find some answers? What are the symptoms of a total inverter failure? (will the vehicle start / run?) What are the related codes on the ODBII? Will replacing the inverter fix the problem? or is system complex and has many points of failure outside of the inverter box? Cheers, Mark

Gavins, my shuddering issue was caused by a extremely dirty MAF sensor. problem prevalent especially in hilly situations. CEL would turn on most times though. I thought it might have been a bad CVT, and did a drain and fill of the fluid. ANSEL JP700 code reader gave fuel system related warning (i have a long post on this forum). replaced MAF and issue went away.

Hi all, my van broke down on a freeway going up hill at high speed and under load and now won't start. Looking for help as to what the issue could be if you have had similar experiences. Over a 10 second period the following happened: -going up major hill at high speed, i felt a slight loss of power - I let off the gas pedal and re-engaged... no power response and engine mechanical sounds got much louder, then sound of a belt squeal, then a clunk that i felt in the drivetrain - car engine stops, but continues rolling and hybrid electric system is active and tries to compensate. Power steering is still on, brakes still work. - I pull over. Car wont start. I notice that my electrical system is wonky, I can't power slide the door shut, mirrors, etc. I believe my auxiliary battery is low. Hazard lights work for a while. - prior to the breakdown, no issues with the vehicle, no Check Engine Light, no warning lights that I can think of. Key Points: After the breakdown, my immediate thought is that my engine seized. After being towed, all fluids good, no belts that I can see have snapped. The nearly dead auxiliary battery is suspicious. Can this be related? Boosting the vehicle has no effect; the ready light flashes and stays flashing. I believe I can hear the vehicle attempting to start, but it sounds very weak I have no time to fully charge the aux battery. Vehicle was towed to a nearby random mechanic in a small town while I took my kids home, several hundred kilometers away. Looking for some expertise or experience regarding such issues?

All. Thanks for your responses. To clean/replace Do the sensors pop out from the front? If not, can i reach from behind without taking plastic bumper cover off? or does it require disassembly? Cheers, Mark

Hi all. I am trying to determine if my parking sensors require replacement: 1) front corner sensors seem to not beep until im very close to an object, and japanese lady starts talking... not really useful for helping me judge distances 2) rear corner parking sensors have never come on 3) rear center parking sensor have never come on 4) no errors indicated in the visual display upon turning the vehicle on... Is this a settings issues? or is this because they are fried?

Sounds like my alphard hybrid... but I have a CVT. I thought the transmisison was shot. culprit was the MAF sensor, but it threw a code on mine.

Correct. when going up inclines or accelerating at speed, it felt like a misshift in the CVT. but it turns out that it was caused by the MAF sensor. lean fuel error was thrown. Upon inspection of the MAF sensor, it looked very dirty. I replaced mine, but common practice is to clean first with MAF cleaner. The location of the MAF sensor is a pain compared to other toyotas and I didn't have time to experiment. Taking out the front fuse/battery terminal box will facilitate access (ull see what i mean once u attempt the job).

Just got it and tested and it works great, better than expect. 1) It works seemlessly everytime I turn on my vehicle and auto connects; i don't need to do anything to start or shut down 2) Sound quality is honestly amazing, on your phone's bluetooth profile for the device you can even turn on the LDAC / atpX HD setting for higher bitrate / sound quality... so make sure you do this. normal audio bluetooth sounds flat compared to this, and honestly blows the bluetooth to radio option out of the water, especially when the volume must be cranked up on the bluetooth to radio option... Im really happy with this device and my theather sound system on my alphard.

Thanks Info. I may just not go this route as I do not have the time to research. Bluetooth audio is the goal. Bluetooth to radio option doesn't work for me; quality is noticably worse. I have invested in an bluetooth to RCA Component box that automatically turns on and pairs with power and i hope that will work seamlessly with normal usage of my van, it is the 1Mii B06 Plus Bluetooth Receiver, HiFi Wireless Audio Adapter, Bluetooth 5.1 Receiver

replying to my own thread. all issues resolved Ancel JP700 correctly read the codes which pointed to MAF sensor; I replaced that with a Denso MAF and now everything runs well. Cheers, Mark

1) I have heard that the later model year head units have full bluetooth / music over bluetooth capability, can anyone confirm? 2) Is it possible to simply swap in a 2007/2008 model year head unit into a 2003 alphard model year?

I bought this unit and it worked flawlessly with my 2003 hybrid. ANCEL JP700 https://www.amazon.ca/Ancel-Automotive-Japanese-Vehicles-Scanner/dp/B07B8FV26L/ref=sr_1_16?hvadid=600206609691&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001441&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13145785724962690394&hvtargid=kwd-337951665720&hydadcr=1320_13509211&keywords=ancel+obd2+scanner&qid=1684857021&sr=8-16

Any resolution to this issue?

Are Toyota vbelt CVT's repairable/rebuildable? or replace entire unit type of thing? I noticed that your newer alphard has a vbelt CVT as well. I thought all CVTs after the 2002-2007 alphards model year were planetary gear type, and not the vbelt type.

Paul, thanks for your reply. Regarding 2) I have additional information. By chance, I found a spare ELM327 that connected with the ECU with both Torque Pro and Car Scanner. Engine and sensor readouts seem to be populating, but neither app could find any error codes, even with a Check Engine Light on and CVT acting up. Any ideas? Could this be normal? Not sure how to interpret this other than the ODB2 reader isn't fully compliant. The customization string for Torque Pro seem that I provided earlier was not needed; possibly made things worse in my brief testing (reported a negative/incorrect coolant temperature).

I'll reply to my own message regarding 2) since I have found more information: More sucess from forum members with the 3.0 verison, less with 2.4 version, and only 1 post I could find regarding a 2.4 hybrid ATH10W. Based on what I read here, Success varies with ELM327 bluethooth adapters because it is suspected because cheaper/knockoff units do not have a required chip/function to read our JDM vehicles. In the case of using Torque Pro as the app with a fully functional ELM327 adapter, Some have reported a need to enter an additional string code. Others make no mention of a string code. In one thread, a poster stated the following string was used for a 2003 2.4 alphard (non hybrid) and worked: ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100 Others stated that they had success with using Car Scanner ELM OBD2 App by 0vZ with the ELM327. The following Profile was used: Toyota JOBD JDM CAN Multiple reports of success with the 2.4 Alphard (not sure if hybrid is included) and an off the shelf ANCEL JP700 JOBD OBD2 Japanese Car Scanner. No details as to if any customization or profiles used... or if it just works. Please add more information if you have it. Thank you.

Hi all. New owner of an ATH10W here, and I am experiencing problems right off the bat. I apologize if this is a reoccurring topic but I could not find anything to do with my issues on this subforum at all. Hoping for some advice and shared experiences regarding: 1) The CVT is slipping and surging under load. Seems to be worse when vehicle warms up. Very notificable surge/slip/stutter when going up hills when I reach 20mph, 40mph. Goes away when hill is gone and engine is not under load. CEL is triggered, but I am unable to read what code is triggered. Seems to lose power and vehicle wont accelerate very well. I am not sure it is related to the CEL, and if it triggers a "safe" mode to protect the vehicle. I did a CVT drain and refill on my way home from work today but not sure how much fluid was actually replaced (even though I had asked that they check for me). 2) What is the code reader of choice for our vehicles? I have an ELM327bluetooth+phone but connect to the ECU no matter what profile I use with the "Car Scanner ELM ODB2" app. Anyone have success with the ELM327 and another app combination? Hoping for some good news. Thank you all.