smurf

Send me a PM with your email address. I can help you with a link to the manual with wiring diagrams in English.

Perfect timing for me. I've got a clicking actuator and a donor unit sat on the shelf ready to use. Thanks 👍

This should cover it. Hazards and indicators.pdf

I presume you have looked at the account transfer requirements to get a signing up fee? I didn't transfer an account, just opened a new one. No direct debits and no money going in and out except £13 a month. I've only had it a few months and I've had no need to use any of the included perks, so I can't give a full recommendation. I haven't had a need to use vehicle breakdown cover since 1999, and long may it continue 🤞

I certainly think so 😁. I should also add that we don't actually use the current account, I just make sure there is £13 in it each month to cover the account fee. There is no requirement to use the account in any way.

That sounds correct, otherwise it would be a right PITA to tighten up as the cable would be spinning around. It will be a compression fitting that seals when tightened up, in the same way an olive does on a copper pipe.

I opened a Nationwide flex plus current account. It costs £13 a month and gives personal AA European breakdown cover with no vehicle age limit. I opened it as a joint account with my wife so we both get cover for no additional cost. You also get travel and gadget insurance as well.

Just wanted add my two penneth worth in regards value and what you get back. I've been insuring classic cars for longer than I care to think about, and a common feature of these policies is "agreed value". Basically, the total loss value of the vehicle is agreed at inception of the policy, and if anything happens then you know exactly what you will get paid out. Having spent a lot of money on a camper I wanted the same piece of mind, so I got an agreed value policy with Adrian Flux( who were the only camper van insurer I could find that offered it). I could have got equivalent insurance cover elsewhere for less, but without any guarantee of what would be paid out if I suffered a total loss. The value you state when getting quotes generally means nothing come claim time as the small print will say "market value" somewhere, and that can be very subjective and take a lot of researching to prove a higher value right when you probably just want the claim paid out as soon as possible.

I thought the Japanese lady was turned off via the stereo menus? There isn't much that can be customised via techstream for the Gen 1.

I don't have P3125-496 on the list of diagnostic codes I have. I have found THIS, which points to the problem being more complex than the coolant pump sadly. You'll need to use chrome to translate it from Russian.

There are uprated springs on ebay LINK Or, some people have had good results with these fitted LINK

I doubt the ECU learns your driving style, but it will do a forward looking calculation based upon the fuel consumption of the last "X" number of miles and the fuel left in the tank. That is how the range left number can go up as well as down on a journey, especially when the tank is nearer to full or empty as a small change in consumption can calculate out to large change in range at the extremes.

It's a 103Nm for the wheel nuts on a gen 1, so they want slackening off and redoing. If ever in doubt, just tighten them up with the wrench in the tool kit. It will have been designed to a length that allows the average person to sufficiently tighten the nuts up so that the wheels don't fall off. It also means you have a chance of getting them off with that wrench. If the torquing up of wheels nuts was as critical as people worry about they would supply a torque wrench in the kit, not a plain wrench, as the claims for damages when wheels came off would far outweigh the cost of a torque wrench in a tool kit. I can't imagine the tyre places are getting their torque wrenchs calibrated at regular intervals, either, so they could be torqued to anything. Every nut tight enough is what really matters.

Try this https://eightseaters.blogspot.com/?m=1

Could be a mini disc player.

To connect your iPhone you need a lead like THIS, or if you want to be able to charge your phone at the same time through the lightning port then THIS. You'd still need whatever ever is required to convert the RCA to 3.5mm socket. Alternatively, you could get a Bluetooth device that plugs into the RCA ports like THIS

It operates the parking brake on the rear wheels in the same way as a handbrake does. It is just the method of operation that is different.

The side doors have a soft close motor, regardless of whether they are power doors or manual only, so this might be the sound you are hearing? Basically, it is so you don't have to slam the doors to get them to close, you just gently pull them shut and the motor pulls it tight. There is also the same on the boot lid. As regards the engine rust, the vehicle is nearly 20 years and will have been through many heat cycles and wet weather. A bit of surface rust is to be expected on steel that has been subject to the elements over a long period and is nothing to be concerned about. Likewise, oxidation on on aluminium is no big deal.

I have a tow bar on a 2003 and it doesn't set the sonar detectors off. The detectors are so insensitive that they can barely detect a wall that is just a few short inches away 🤣

That looks like a something on or around a big end bearing has seized and then been rejected out via the sump. Nothing much can be done to avoid that other than ensuring regular oil and filter changes are done, and with these cars not always coming with any service history from Japan we are just hoping they were as well maintained as they appear to be from their general condition.

On the hybrid there is a 1500W inverter taking power from the hybrid battery for the 100V outlets. A US market kettle that is under 1500W should work fine. Everything else probably is just a matter of finding an adapter that works. If you are handy with electrics, or know someone that is, you could get a Japanese/US two pin plug and connect it to an appropriate UK socket with a short length of flex. Obviously you'd have to make sure that nobody comes along and thinks this is 240V outlet and starts plugging everything into it. Also, be aware you have no earth via this system. I note you have called your vehicle the Eco Pioneer, which suggests you have a vehicle from Campervanco? If so, why not just buy a stovetop kettle and use the induction hob instead?

I've replied to your PM 👍

I did originally intend to fit a rail that would be hidden by the pop top, and it would certainly have been cheaper and simpler to fit, but I liked the idea of being able to use the rail without the pop top being up.

I bought it from here. I searched high and low, and this was the only place I could find that was selling it in a single 3M length, and in black. Delivery is quite expensive at £18 because of the length. https://batteriesandsolar.co.uk/products/flexible-awning-track-black-3m-g512bk?fbclid=IwAR2yAVt2117vou5OC3n_MIH_rnSaIsyKCppsGMuwk4aspPWEgK0zRa1fis8

I recently fitted an awning rail by removing the gutter cover and fitting the rail in it's place. It is held in place with adhesive mostly, and a single self tapper on the leading edge.