Gamith

Do you have a 2002 to 2008 or a 2013? Either way there are cleaning, polishing and sealing kits available if you are Ok with a bit of manual effort.

If it's a factory fitted unit have you tried amayama.com? Postage takes a while but if you put in your vehicle details it will tell you which part numbers you need.

I can't help with the Vellfire wide of things, and the fuseboard is a different layout to mine. However my front fogs are a 15A feed, so I would assume it's that one which isn't working. But that's not a factory-fitted addition :-) It is also a non-standard way of adding feeds. It looks like one side of the fuse has been cut away and a cable soldered to the end. I would like to think that both soldered ends are on the fuse-protected side (i.e. that should the fuse blow the original and the extra feed will stop) but I would have thought they would be on the same physical side for that to be the case. It will definitely be worthwhile finding out where they go, I would hope they are power feeds for two different bits of kit, at least the blue for 15A and red for 10A makes sense. Good luck. Oh and for (possibly useless) info my 15A feeds (2005 Alphard) in the passenger side fuseboard are: Front Fog Lights Eng Computer Cig Lighter Acc Socket and the 10A feeds are: Rear Fog Lights Rear Tail Lights Switch, Aircon illum ABS, Powerslide Door, Cruise Rear Wiper Aircon, Audio Seat Heater Eng Computer, SRS Airbag Shift lock, Door Mirror, Audio

One that is JOBD compatible - so that it can recognise the japanese codes.

I usually suggest amayama.com - put in your details to get the appropriate parts.

I'm sure you guys know this already but I thought I would add a pic of Toyota dealers near Glasgow, just in case it helps: (from: Toyotas website)

I remember talking to someone many years ago who had bought a Hillman Imp (I think) new, took it home and drilled a hole in each side pillar (and quite likely various other spots) and filled it with waxoyl - decades later the car was still in great condition.

Oh well - you have the answer at least. I have a Lanoguard kit waiting for time and the right weather, so I guess that's a no :-)

It should be, fitting a fog-light, possibly changing the speedometer from KpH to MpH and giving it an under-seal would be expected actions, together with the paperwork side of things. I'm not an importer though so your mileage may vary. Is there any paperwork showing who the importer is? it may be worthwhile getting a CarVX (https://carvx.jp/) report.

They don't use / need salt on the roads so that it the why. How long has it been in the UK? When it was imported it should have been treated, so you could ask the previous owner, and / or the importer. Have you taken a look underneath? does any of it look treated? As for places in London I can't suggest any so I would do an internet search for ones in your area.

The Bedford one (The Bowl, 1 Ampthill Rd, Houghton Conquest, Bedford, MK45 3JP) is closest to me at 45 mins so, yeah it would depend on attendance, and my availability of course.

Good - now you need to label that switch :-) I assume it must be an isolator switch so the connection isn't live all the time and can be enabled when needed.

I'm afraid not - but doing a search for the tent itself gets quite a few results showing other vehicles. there is this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsAocwwzWoM or this one: https://nimblecamper.com/arpenaz-base-m/

If it's of any interest I have replaced my battery terminal connectors with ones that will take UK type posts - the post is here: https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/9271-battery-connector-replacement/

Is it just the clips you are after? if so there are sort of multi-packs that should cover most purposes, like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388610925420?_skw=car+clip+sets&itmmeta=01KE2C6P64FJCBAT18VW42XWYZ&hash=item5a7b04236c:g:aqcAAOSwOSxnRZbi&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1chgT4Ru%2FnIFawxrDsgUp%2BIHjM4q3C9xBjvvrsR0k9AW%2F6C5CHWZBIvaacK02H3QEflPKe0UQT5K3xQpXsp4K8ciKUieWzmcnuGpxcbdYzsuXNut1MIcHJGJhPoSxcnkc1U7K7mBFNzrDL%2FwCFfPdcRNeFZ0V8kH16AKEB1mxne57Isidd2SBovOZGBs%2F9C0E8pacWcOpQuvgj3kMeL1feHTS33IUpiwMXq0M8Gj0173zYJkkv%2F2epdvN%2BRg7J4WB8%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7LjmszwZg For any replacement parts you could try amayama.com (https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/36377/body/5252 - this is my 2005 model so make sure you put in your vehicle details to get the correct parts) - it all depends on what you need. Alternatively you could contact a local bodyshop / repair place and see what they say.

The link didn't work for me I'm afraid, but I found a video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKN2isuA7Gc) which goes into a lot of detail of how these things work. Looking at that I would suggest taking a look at the glow plug as if the battery is weak, or it doesn't work, all you will get is the fan.

Do you have any pictures of it, brand and model? I assume that you have covered the basics - has it got fuel, is there a setting or button on it for 'heat', maybe there is a fuel cut-off?

Are these the right parts?: If so then Amayama.com (https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/36377/body/5853) might be worth a look.

I can't say anything about awnings I'm afraid, but for cheap and simple camping I am looking to get a Arpenaz Base M tent (https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/6-man-camping-living-area-arpenaz-base-m/157674/c98c241m8648391) which can go on the side or the back of the alphard with the respective door open.

In case you don't already know - this is what the graphic looks like (on my 2005 dashboard). Taken when I had removed the dashboard to look for blow bulbs, only to find out they are all soldered LEDs (doh!)

Hi Gordon, I am pleased with them so far - though I need to straighten the lugs on the existing connection ends to get them to connect smoothly, or take the ends off entirely and get some new connectors like these: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/battery-power-cable-terminals.html so all the cables can be connected properly. The tightness can be easily adjusted. I have them set up quite tight so I can't imagine them coming loose - though I guess a tie-wrap around the end of the lever is a possible solution should that ever happen. A side effect of this is to take connectors up to UK size it would be possible to swap the battery out for a normal battery - which might come in handy. Cheers. Paul

Having found that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery is not made simple I decided to look into ways to make it a little easier. from the river-based people I purchased a 'URAQT 12V 4-Way Positive Negative Quick-Release Pure Brass Battery Terminal Connector' https://m.media-amazon.com/images/G/02/apparel/rcxgs/tile._CB483369956_.gif and a set of '8pcs Car Battery Post Terminal Shims with Washers' https://m.media-amazon.com/images/G/02/apparel/rcxgs/tile._CB483369956_.gif The result was successful (as in the engine starts and charges the battery), though not especially pretty. At least the connections are nice and tight: I stopped as I was getting too cold :-). I plan to see if the cables can be re-routed / re-positioned so that the metal ends are upside down, which would make for a better connection or, failing that, strip the ends of the cables and terminate them properly so they are connected as intended, which is with the main connection being clamped in the middle and additional connections using either of the side bolts. I also want to tidy up the various additions that have left a number of loose cables. Things to note: 1) undoing the cable ends is best done first, before disconnecting the original connectors as they are very tightly done up. 2) the terminal posts are different sizes so different shims are needed. 3) as usual the windows and clock need to be reset after reconnecting 4) the + terminal does have a cover, I pulled it back for the photo. 5) the more interesting bit is that with these fitted you can now get a non-jap terminal battery, which is a nice option to have. I hope this may be of interest to people. Paul

This (from: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/36377/electric/8502) is for my 2005 facelift version but doesn't show anything more than a nut holding it on. You could try a ball-joint splitter - tension it up and give the arm a sharp tap or two (after a dose of WD40 or penetrating oil) and it should come off.

Make sure you have a good run, 15mins at least, before taking it there - the two catalytic converters will take a little time to warm up and the emission readings won't be realistic. I would also, as you say, make sure they know where the rear foglight switch/ button is, as well as the odometer being in KM.

When you select reverse what happens - do the reversing lights come on? Is the fault the same as the reason you changed the camera? if so the problem lies elsewhere. Hopefully you have a 12v tester - a Fluke multimeter or similar As the camera should only come on when the reverse gear is selected it could be the wire isn't going live when reverse is selected - does this come from the head unit or another source? If the camera is being fed power when reverse is selected it could be the feed isn't working, so checking that cable would be another area. Lastly is the head unit itself may be the issue - check the connections are Ok and is there any menu functions that enable or disable the reverse camera?