Gamith

My hydraulic Citroens (GS(A)s and BXs) had virtually no brake pedal travel - as soon as they were touched they came on, in the case of the rear brakes it would depend on the load in the back as to how much pressure was sent to the brakes. Took some getting used to and needed good tyres.

I know nothing about the 20 series but have you tried moving the tab to one side and lowering the catches? Failing that the middle lever that is pointing up may be part of the system. I have converted ours into a sort of camper van with an 18mm thick floor on top of the carpet. I left the runners and cut out slots around them instead, putting some rubmatting down over the top. Recently I have added a false floor for bedding etc to stay.

There are quite a few posts on this. I am not familiar with the ggh20 as i have a 2005 facelift model but mine came with a dashboard switch that was connected to a wire that ended up coiled up in the boot lid. I ended up getting these '2x Red Rear Bumper Reflector Brake Light For Toyota Avensis Alphard RAV4 Estima' - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265653102036 and using the wire from the dashboard - they reflect and give a very bright light. However different lights are used across the ranges so you will need to make sure you have the correct ones - though at that price you can try them and see.

I have found these which may help - obviously not Alphard-specific but then the codes shouldn't be: https://carmodnerd.com/p1835/ https://carmodnerd.com/p1301/ (not sure about any in between these) https://carmodnerd.com/p1548/ https://carmodnerd.com/c1310/ Hopefully these help.

'that radio so do NOT throw it away .' surely?

Those codes could be old - have you cleared the codes and see which ones come back?

The two main things are to get to a steady speed, say 40mph and to stay at that for a few seconds at least. Then push the button in to start the cruise control (green light) and press the stalk downwards for a couple of seconds to set the car to keep the current speed. Then take your foot off the accelerator. You can increase the cruise speed (up to 71 or 72) by flicking the stalk up, or holding it up. You can reduce the cruise speed by flicking it down. It will cut off if you press the brakes, pull the stalk towards you or press the button to turn it off. If you want to resume a previous set speed, and you haven't turned it off you can do so by pressing the stalk up. It does take some practise as it seems to need a few seconds to register the command. Try it on a quiet bit of road.

That sounds like everything - so when the engine is on and you push the end of the cruise control stalk in (towards the steering column) does the green light on the dashboard come on. You can read more on this thread to check everything:

I took mine to a locksmith and they read it when the buttons were being pressed.

I got a load of random fixings from Aliexpress (I think) and just play with them to get one that does the job.

I suspect that the more rapid movement towards the empty end could be a matter of accuracy. When more than half-full the accuracy doesn't need to be that good, but as you approach zero it would be better to get a more accurate indicator. Of course it could be something else entirely - you would have to ask Mr. Toyota.

Looks like its the sonar computer, so it depends on whether you want the parking sensors to work i would say.

mpg rather than mph I suspect. 🙂

The OBD should let you clear old codes, so I assume you have done that.

Hmm i would suspect the alternator doesn't work (which could just be a fuse, but considering the age could be a range of things from a bad earth connection, loose belt, worn out commutators or something else entirely) and the seller knew that and replaced it just to sell it. If you can get an auto-electrician to come out for a diagnosis that would be an excellent first step. A zero / one star review would be the very first step 🙂

The passenger side fuses are worse than the the drivers side. Taking the glove box out may help but I usually end up either upside down with my head where the passengers feet would be or with a flexible mirror. Whichever way you get access to them a pair of Bent Nose Pliers will help. Something like this - mine aren't 90 degrees but about 45.

Hi - welcome to the forum. I have no experience with the welcab or hoist but I was wondering whether a ramp might be suitable? - it might be a more flexible option, especially if the wheelchair is powered. Otherwise it looks like a great example. I would suggest: check oil and gearbox levels check water levels check for any leaks underneath (put a clean cloth under and leave it for a bit) you can get a CarVX check done to confirm export mileage (though it will be in kilometers) and condition at the time of export look up MoT history to see what has been identified, and hopefully fixed, over the years On the whole the 2.4ls are robust minivans.

I guess the first question is does the entire door need replacing as most parts are available: (courtesy of amayama.com)

Mine seems to be in permanent zoomed in mode so not really handy for getting an idea of where things are, so I could well be looking at this soon. I would start by taking the boot lid liner off and looking at the connections, which I am assuming there are - it could be a single fixed lead that goes all the way to the head unit. Take a picture of the connector for reference and then dismount the camera and take a picture of that also. If it's the original part then amayama.com would help in finding the correct part number for an original replacement, or if it isn't original you should now have what you need to find a matching or suitable alternative.

As the description only says "Imported 2024, 8 seats, petrol/hybrid, good condition, starts and drives brilliant Vehicle registered: 01/03/2024" there isn't much to go on. It does look like a 2005 model but it has been imported in 2024? that strikes me as a little strange as my 2005 was imported in 2018 so I would have expected this to be the same. That could be because it has been sitting in someones garage doing nothing for 10 years or maybe it was first exported to another country and then imported here? Either way the CarVX would give some useful info such as when it was auctioned etc. Mine is not a hybrid so I am also not sure whether the tail gate light arrangement and the central console are typical hybrid features or not. Check that the fog lights work (looks to have been fitted as original) and I see the cruise control is fitted so it looks like it has got quite a few of the extras fitted. On the face of it the price is reasonable - though it's still a 20 year old vehicle of course. You may want to see about changing the heads unit (or learn Japanese) but that's it's own minefield if you want to keep all the functionality - for instance I see the button on the steering-wheel for the front cameras has been replaced with one for 360 degree view - at least that is what it looks like, and it seems that getting all the functionality is difficult. I would wait for someone to comment on the low mileage / hybrid side of things as I can't help there I'm afraid.

This will provide you with all the answers:

Having disconnected and reconnected my battery on several occasions it's only the windows that need attention. I sit in the drivers seat and lower the drivers window first, pause for 5 seconds and then raise it again. Then repeat for each of the other windows. By all means check other components; sunroof, head unit etc. but I would be surprised that changing the battery would have affected them.

Assuming that the head unit itself is behaving itself I would say it's safe to assume it's the camera, you could try unplugging it from the head unit and plugging it back in to see if that makes a difference, but to start planning to replace it. Check Amayama.com to get the correct part number and description and see whether you can get the same part elsewhere. For mine it's a 'CAMERA ASSY, TELEVISION (8679058011)' and would cost 400 Ukp, but looking on ebay I can get a used part for under 100 Ukp. I would recommend taking a look at the current camera (i.e. take the lining of the boot lid off and check the connections there) - it's always possible that something has moved and you can take the opportunity to check the connectors are what you expect.

It looks to be like one of these: https://www.tyreconsumables.co.uk/shop/tyres/valves-and-hardware/tubeless-tyre-valves/flush-fit-bolt-in-tyre-valves/ I assume you have had a look around for the adaptor - though it might be more straightforward to find the item on aliexpress and buy a fresh set just for the adaptor.

Same here - that looks to be the same one I have tried to fit (several times), but I don't think I have the right connections as it doesn't want to work 😞 My mirrors will go in and out on the press of the button, but not on engine / ACC power on.