Gamith

I was getting P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)" also and cleaning the MAF didn't help - the error would come back. What fixed it for me was changing the front Lambda sensor which, on mine, was a struggle as the previous mechanic had forced the sensor into place and had damaged the thread. An M18 x 1.5 tap and die cleaned up both the thread on the exhaust and the new sensor which I purchased - I would warn to be on the lookout for ones with the correct plug on the end as the cheap ones come with bare wires that need to be housed in the original socket (as the supplied ones don't stand a chance of fitting) and are bound to cause issues. I ended up getting this one: https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-anh15-24-front-fuel-ratio-sensor-34437-p.asp Which is rather expensive but arrived quickly and was a straight plug in. I also changed the fuel filter (see below) and the air filter - which may have helped but less so that the sensor I would say. Suffice to say that the emissions that it failed its MoT test on it now passes. Out of interest what are you using to grab your figures as per your screenshot?

>change at 5 min or 1 month? I am not an expert but personally I would: 1) Start by turning the engine over a few times, on a manual you could have it in gear, jack up a wheel and turn it but not sure how to approach that on an automatic. 2) As long as it turns freely start the engine and leave it to run for at least 10 mins until the oil is warm. 3) drain the oil and change the filter at that point - my guess is that whatever is likely to have been caught would have been caught by then. 4) obviously secure sump plug and refill with the proper oil 5) should be good to go - check for leaks would be the only advice, but I'm sure you would be doing that.

My reading of it says Yes - 360 UKP. Its classified as 'PLG (Private/Light Goods)' rather than Light Goods, no sign of Euro there either so those tables can be ruled out, as can motorcycles and tricycles, and I suspect that arguing that it's a car won't go very far so the only table that fits is the one you have there for the next tax year. What makes me chuckle a little is that our other car, a Hyundai Kona Electric, is currently at 0 UKP (for one more day - so I have just renewed that) but next year will be 10 UKP - though it will be increasing after that. I believe I am bringing some balance to the universe by being at opposite ends of the road tax spectrum (I can't afford a Veyron etc. so I am being realistic about the width of the spectrum). 2025-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf 2024-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf

Funny enough I was talking to a Mazda MX5 owner earlier today and told him about amayama.com and he was rather shocked that a part he had been looking for was around a third of the price on amayama. A good source it must be said.

Yey - the emissions test passed! It's booked in for the full test on Tuesday. I have changed both the offside tyres which were showing signs of wear on the inside. The new tyres are on the front and the front nearside is now on the O/S rear. The tyre people did an alignment check and found everything was within spec, though both the offsides were right at the limit of the manufacturers spec. I am rather pleased that the emissions look to be so clear cut - I don't know what the 'before' figures were but a CO and HC of 0 must be good. I'm not sure what Lambda is measuring but that is within spec also. Oh we also found that one side light (far offside) doesn't work, and one brake light (nearside tailgate) doesn't work - both are dual filament bulbs, or at least they are different brightnesses for side and braking. I have put in some LED brake light 'bulbs' which do the same job, but are quite a bit brighter. It will be interesting to see whether the MoT tester says anything - or is it just LED headlight bulbs that are an issue? Roll on Tuesday.

I will take it to the MoT place tomorrow and hopefully get them to run a quick test to see - if it's still too high I suspect I will book it into the Toyota Garage in Letchworth who do not seem to be averse to working on Alphards (maybe mine is the first one) to see what they can do. If it's Ok then I will book it in for a proper test - after that it could do with a couple of tyres being replaced (advisories). We will see.

For anyone who is interested / in need I have found that for my 5/2005 2.4lts Alphards front Lambda sensor a M18 x1.5 tap is what you want. I cleared the exhaust hole, while the same die (M18 x1.5) cleaned up the threads on the Lambda sensor - all went together though I only tightened it up a bit as I didn't want to strip it 🙂 I have since taken it for a blast up the motorway and back, plus some driving around, and it behaved itself and there was no engine warning light - which is a relief (for this time at least). Now I need to get an emissions test to see whether it has actually helped.

I have just done this and can confirm that the flashers do blink three times before turning off - either by flicking the stalk or by turning it on and off. I didn't try the hazards but I'm sure they will work also. Thank you for the heads up on this @smurf Oh yes, and mine also started at a very fast rate and needed turning down - well worth a test before going on the road 🙂

There is a very good video that goes through it all, but I just took pics. 🙂 Ah, found it.

I got a 'J1332091' from Autodoc - this one I think: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/herthbuss-jakoparts/1376214 it seemed to match the original that I got out - though I suspect that the previous one was also a clone of some sort as I couldn't find any sign of a manufacturer on it.

After that, as the saying goes, fitting is the reverse of removal. Line up the holes in the cover and do them all loosely until they can all be tightened connect the fuel line, and put the yellow clip back to secure it re-connect the electrical plug in the socket turn the engine on to test - expect 5 to 10 seconds of turnover before it fires - you should also hear the motor working (I couldn't as I have removed the front lambda sensor so it sounds like a tank at the moment 🙂 )

The coarse filter doesn't actually seem to filter anything but it would be worth a look just in case.

Once the filter has had a chance to drain (tuning it around helps) you can then remove the top and bottom caps. I used a set of trim removal tools and a screwdriver to move the cap retaining clips out of the way - not easily captured in pictures. Once the top cap is removed there is a connector to the pump to disconnect. The bottom cap holds a rubber cap to the bottom of the pump - this can fall off very easily There are then several items to swap over: top cap with fuel float bottom cap with coarse filter a silver regulator to the side of the bottom cap

Then it's the turn of the fuel connector - lever the yellow locking 'thing' out of the way an remove it - just pulling it back won't help you. Loosen and then remove the 8 6mm bolts holding the metal cover down Then it's a bit of a juggling act to: remove the fuel fuel connector and put your thumb (or finger) over the hole to stop it leaking too much lift the metal cover out of the way remove the fuel filter - this needs a little care as the coarse filter sticks out one way and the float sticks out another - I pushed the float arm in a little help Turn the filter upside down to let it drain and Let the fuel connector drain into the tank You can then see how much debris is in the tank

Once the panel is out of the way you can see the top of the fuel pump with an electrical connector and the fuel line. Remove the electrical connector first - the way it works is you squeeze the top of the clip and then wiggle it loose - the grey cap is to hold the wires in place.

Since there doesn't seem to be a topic for this I thought I would start one in case it helps anyone. Undo the flaps covering the four bolts holding the wide 'driver side' seat to it's runners, undo the bolts (I did the fronts first and then moved the seat forward to do the rears. Move the seat out of the way - it's quite heavy so either move it to the back or out of the van with help. Peel away the carpet layers - you are trying to get to the section between the sets of runners in the middle of the van. I have a top carpet, a normal carpet and then the underlay. I ended up cutting the under carpet and underlay in different locations to get it all out. Once you have the area clear there are 4 8mm bolts holding the panel down.

After struggling to get my front lambda sensor out it came out with less than a full turn all told. It's difficult to see but the thread on the old one is essentially stripped and the new sensor can't get started on the thread in the exhaust manifold. I am thinking of getting a tap to cut out a decent thread but I'm not sure what size to go for - though my micrometer says 18mm on the outside (which got me to thinking that maybe it's the same size as a spark plug) so i have ordered M14, M16 and M18 intermediate taps and see which fits. Does anyone know what tap size I would need to cut the correct thread? I will give it another go this morning after changing the fuel filter (fun!) and I might pick up an 18mm spark plug to see if they can at least make a start on the knackered thread I currently have in my exhaust manifold, a replacement of which would be £1000. Hopefully someone will have an idea.

Do you need to top up the radiator? On mine I could only make out the level looking from the offside, though my reservoir may well be muckier than yours. If it stands around a lot then condensation may be the issue.

Next question - how hard should it be to remove the front lambda sensor? I managed to unplug the socket and I have a lambda sensor removal tool to like this. It seemed to start undoing fairly easily - after the first bit to break the seal of what could be 19 years of being in the same place - but after about half a turn it started being really tough to turn any more. I haven't removed any of the exhaust surround or anything else - do I need to? I wanted to check other people experiences of changing the front sensor before going too much further. Cheers.

I was given the following list of parts for my 05/2005 Alphard 2.4l: If that helps at all.

That would make the most sense - they you would have to work out which sort you need as the passenger fusebox uses a different fuse from the drivers side (at least they are on my 2005 face-lift model), but that's only an issue if you aren't aware of that when ordering. Then it's a case of the termination - though that is more a matter of convenience than anything else, and how good you are with crimping tools 🙂

Depends on what you buy. They usually come with one fuse each and you use the original fuse in the main socket. Obviously you can put whatever fuses you like in but you don't want a higher fuse rating than the original, so pairs of the same or the spur being on a lower rated fuse would be best. When choosing which fuse socket to use you need to find out what it currently powers and / or do a test to find out whether its a permanent feed, comes one with the ignition or is only on when something happens, say headlights being on.

Do you mean these? I have used similar ones to ease the load on the mess of wires behind the central console as there were items being powered from previous taps and the like so I have used them to clean things up and to have each item running off a fuse. They work fine but I have found that, depending on the fuse box, they take up room and can block off the slot next to them so some locations are better than others. You also need to work on the connections and try and get the feed shrouded - as in the picture so that you don't have a live feed floating around. Oh - just mean to add that I haven't used them for LED lights but for; GPS speedo, dashcam, USB sockets, accessory (cigarette) socket and something I have forgotten 🙂

So they are the same number?

Good evening starider - is there any chance of finding those numbers please? My 2005 failed it's pre-MoT on: Exhaust carbon monoxide content at idle exceeds manufacturers specified limits [8.2.1.2(b)] Exhaust lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits [8.2.1.2(c)] Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits [8.2.1.2(b)] I have cleaned the MAF and put come cleaner in the fuel but have yet to locate the lambda sensors. I will also be changing the fuel pump filter - are there any recommendations or ones to avoid? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/fuel-filter-10361/toyota/alphard/alphard-ath1-mnh1-anh1/25589-2-4-anh10w shows quite a few but none are Denso. Advisories which I am less fussed about: Two tyres are close to needing replacement and one of my 5 brake lights isn't working (this is the one I know that works when I take the tailgate apart and then stops after I put it all back together again)