Gamith

I think you mean Denis 🙂

My fuse box that holds the radio fuse is in the passenger foot-well, but the layout is different from yours though. I plan on putting a load of these (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084VLKNSV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) into the fuseboard to feed the different additions* as the current draw on the audio line is too much and the fuse keeps blowing. My bodging has the radio coming on but the touchscreen doesn't work - a new fuse allows it to work for a while but then it blows and it stops again. * HUD speedometer Dashcam 2x double USB sockets 2nd 'Cigarette lighter' socket A mirror auto-retraction module (which has tipped it over the line 😞 ) This is in addition to the mods that have happened to it over the years and have left the wiring behind the dash somewhat haphazard.

Update - having fed the wire down to the bumper area and fitting the new LED reflectors into place I now have some quite bright fog lights. They are still fed from a simple push switch on the dashboard, which is connected to ACC rather than the headlight switch - so I am hopefully Ok for the MoT, however I would like to get a 'normal' fog light action if I can. So if I get: Replacement indicator stalk 84140-42080 and Relay 90987-02027 Would they work with a 10 facelift? Can I just plug in the relay, replace the steering wheel indicator stalk and then find the feed in the bumper area? A quick look in the bumper area doesn't show a nice big connector such as Simbads. Thoughts please? 1) I did wire the red and white feeds to be extra bright, they are red, but the phone camera shows them more white than red. 2) I know it needs a clean 3) I know the nearside boot light is out - annoyingly it comes back on when I have the boot apart and then doesn't come on when it's all put back again.

Cheers @starider - I will put the additive in and give the MAF a good clean and see whether the P0171 code stops appearing. If not then those numbers will come in handy.

Looking at this: The conclusion seemed to be that 'As far as I’m aware, this light indicates the engine immobiliser is active. Just a security thing.' is it normally supposed to flash, but there was an issue and clearing the error via the OBD has caused it to work again? I will be putting a bottle of 'Wynns Catalytic Converter & Lambda Cleaner' in the tank tomorrow and then cleaning the MAF sensor with 'Halfords Electrical Contact Cleaner 500ml' to see if either help - it shouldn't hurt at least. I am also hoping to install a couple of these 'https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265653102036' which I am amazed to find come with bright LEDs already fitted! I reckon they sent me these instead https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265450629110?itmmeta=01JHTYPQRZ7ZGVG4AQ9QE2Z02C&hash=item3dce1727f6:g:ROEAAOSwtCthtzo5. Not that I will be complaining.

Ours used to behave itself but now continues to flash unless the key is in the ignition.

'click in head goes off' This morning when I was checking the codes (as the check engine light had come on) and I first saw the P0171 code, there was also a 'B2799 Engine Immobiliser System' code. So clearing the P0171 code is an obvious issue as it has returned. As the B2799 code had not returned I assumed it must have happened when the new keys were being programmed and promptly forgot about it. I was obviously a little hasty in that - if this light is the immobiliser system then obviously something is wrong with it. The strange thing is that there is no error code for it now. Hmm curiouser and more curious.

PM sent, thank you

Good afternoon all, Has anyone seen this icon before? its started flashing and I had to grab a video to see what it actually is. It still flashes when the car is locked up. I have checked the doors and they all close. The Alphard locks up Ok so I don't think it's that. I have recently had two extra keys made and programmed up but they have been working fine for around a week but that's the only key-related activity I can think of. I need to sort out the power though as there have been quite a few modifications to it and at least one fuse blows on a regular basis and takes out the touchscreen on the head unit and also makes the sonar beep a lot - though of course this might just be other issues popping up. 🙄 The flashing light goes off when I put the key in the ignition but comes back on again after I remove it. The ODB reader only shows a 'P0171 Syetem too lean (Bank 1)' error which I have cleared once - it's come back so I will have to look at that but I doubt it's got anything to do with this. Maybe it is telling me the battery in the key 'fob' is low? Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Cheers Paul

Thank you - that shows me what to expect for my fog light experience (my one had a fog light switch on the dash but it fed a wire that ended up coiled up in the boot lid!) which so far ends in a add-on light hanging under the bumper. It looks as though I should be able to unscrew the reflectors from underneath - though taking the whole bumper off is also pretty easy.

Hello everyone, I recently (July 2024) bought a 2005 (19 years old, it will be having it's 20th birthday in May) Alphard - it came with a full remote key and an unlock key (no 'fob') which we have since managed to lose. I have been trying to get extra keys for it. The guys at ARC Locksmiths in Stevenage sorted me out. I visited them to find out the the frequency of the current key and then searched on Ebay for matching blanks to end up getting 2 of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386967938897 (Which have 'J636 314Mhz +67 2005-2009 printed on the packet 🙂 if that is of any help to anyone) After that the ARC guys cut the two blanks to match the current key (though they said that the blank metal was likely to be particularly tough so they hoped their machine was able to cope, but it was fine) and tested the locking / unlocking, opening / closing of the doors which all went well. It was then a matter of the programming and after some delays and too-ing and fro-ing they found they needed a cross-over box to re-wire the OBD output for their kit to read it properly. After that it was quite a 'simple' (for them - not for me 🙂 ) task to copy the settings onto the the new blanks and jobs a good'un - done in about 5 mins at the end. I got them to cut a couple of house keys while I was there. So if you are in the area and need some keys cutting / programming they know what to do for a 2005 (facelift) Alphard at least and I would recommend them. They are on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=arc locksmiths

Hopefully one of these will help:

I am thinking of modding the reflectors to add LED/COB strips - is it possible to remove them from a 2005 rear bumper by getting access from underneath or am I looking at dropping the bumper. I already have a dashboard switch and cable in place - currently it's feeding a light on a hanger under the bumper, which doesn't work too well and looks rather naff also.

I have also been struggling with the names of the different types of fuses as I was confusing 'Micro' with what looks to be 'Low Profile Mini': I am assuming that the two types of Mini aren't interchangeable - that would make things too easy.

Well done in getting so far - it sounds as though the whole engine needs to be soaked in light oil before you even start - lots of stuck bolts. I assume you have come across broken stud extractor sets such as: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365271455086?_skw=bolt+extractor&itmmeta=01JGTSSAR4EK59KY5H0ADGDSTX&hash=item550be0156e:g:UbYAAOSw2mFlUZIp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkG6EKa5tVjRTqx5ve1SwAImdGHm98p%2BIA%2FgADz36B35L%2Bn2rtY5nbnJ%2Fh3rIr3OCmbsCYbk394w3uwfRDDLcBW0FU6MGkO1Lw2XquVJkKDgm9MM1dneyA%2BDdx7nAGqyg9SjqjfYYfAL3I35bxzHhzu9FKuKZ7V84zOzNBqfn%2BilIc4PqBolvLUoTOv5gGt%2BdgxYLVwKxmkl0GvpkOUvHJZUR7mLRamnDJ%2FejnUpMxcebIeldZ5cAC1WTgsmi9brss%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR56s5dmGZQ Good luck getting those stuck ones out.

I have also found these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364658290292?_skw=Micro+Blade+Fuse+Adapter&itmmeta=01JGTP24G53WV6KM9H2VQ0BK6H&hash=item54e753ee74:g:oSMAAOSwV5BllNCw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmxdoLQ0oMo4WJzuUWlOzgoK9fSfS4Y5b%2BwFfUl%2BTKKkulMP6XMTBwnupb8yHtMPz1Kn05MmsGsMMon%2BZZeTCAIVnP4sI4Kk8JELrKe6xi9fW33D%2BZNgK%2Bk%2FpSktSA4hsrkO4zRIAMNBz6UpWqahNU0cTv4uqgFMyWWQTUml1PbsATksCfTQn2N60RlWtnv4Bt%2FxK9TY36WxgJtiFeMJKYDY4t0Iq5nOmJUPXNpYvIy5FmB19XUpN%2FyRfL6mxfessj4%2FB3hW643uhwpTKbsr6%2BlCODV%2F42cleZ33BD3bMJC%2Bg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMmMiI1oZl which looks to be a good way of getting a fused 10A feed from any of the fuse boxes to whatever toys you want to fit. As my current setup is a rats-nest of extra cables clipped / spliced onto existing cables this would be a better way of doing things. The only downside (aside from a lot of work) is that you can't easily fit them back-to-back, though flipping one through 180 degrees would work you can only do that for two feeds next to each other. It would make extracting a fuse simpler though. The only thing lacking is a way of labelling the feeds.

There are others out there - for instance 1:18 Toyota Alphard Alloy MPV Car Diecast Model (Toy, Sound, Light & Pull Back): Which would command a fair bit of shelf space 🙂

True - there are different types in the various fuse boxes, so yeah they wouldn't be useful in all locations. The passenger foot-well fuses are micro while the fuses in the engine bay are mini (which I have found here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296789301797?_skw=Circuit+Breaker+Manual+Reset+Blade+Fuse+mini&itmmeta=01JGSDS05ND72BPY1QBA1SC3JF&hash=item451a055a25:g:68cAAOSw7GJnIazb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABEHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKk9--Ax3tcGuTACybiuYm4inTmKZFaMLgO4s4oPpQjzs4QvDBsU%2BgoF%2FYw%2BWh4Xy0pzB4UBhDFji5rphRmwj1N%2FEF3%2FzT6L1UVt9y%2BcM6qVbP9doxHPkSC5xGnzTOSCERD5QIdTB9MyhmjDweX57Ic5vh7zfjYe6xc0TnfOVgkOAqk%2BEOBZq9JdXwpRtlz0uZGeG53o%2B2aGNvXRnIjVLxv0NdsdL%2BLacgv%2FQhyYqxsyTrwHmLodF0myp4G8sdHaaZQLdNm04M%2FKE4DUAiLOXQ5zhWowvx2pZQfKJ4t3PeugnsVLzYpE4ERCdBbKvbNTRUQhl6yC%2BNP8%2FwWIR5P3O67Z|tkp%3ABFBM-ILkrYZl) so they are useful for those at least. I can't find any micro versions though. I must admit that I am tempted to get a few and use them when an appropriate fuse goes.

Hi everyone, I don't know whether these are news to people but I have come across this today: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135474538300 which could mean that if a fuse blows it's a simple reset rather than finding where you have stored them from last time etc. What do people think?

I was able to fit a: CC stalk (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184954212553), a cover (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305765478269) and a replacement cable from a wiper stalk (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126400441233), the one with the white connector goes to the CC stalk, to give the CC stalk some power I suspect. It worked straight away on my 2005 facelift model so I'm sure you will be fine to fit the equivalents - which may well be the same items. Good luck.

I assume that there is nothing blocking the door from closing? I would open the door and try manually 'closing' the lock with a screwdriver or something similar and see whether the lock itself works as intended. If it doesn't then I would start by checking feeds and earth connection to the lock - then check the fuses (though I can't find a reference to a fuse for the rear door lock so that may be a pointless effort).

Hi Melly - congratulations and welcome to the club. Have a good read around for ideas and peoples experiences. Not personally but mine had been imported in 2018 so it must have been sorted out then. I suspect the thing to do will be to write to DVLA to explain but I hope someone will be along with a proven idea. Only a simple one behind the second row seats to seperate our 'sleeping area' from our 'store' area. Ours came with curtains already fitted to the rear and side windows, which I assumed were standard fixtures. I needed to find some means to cover the windscreen and first row sides and ended up with a sort of umbrella for the first and magnetic screens for the latter.

I am getting the fog light sorted out on mine today as, when I pressed the button on the dash, the switch would light up but no new light would show on the back. I traced the feed to a coil of wire in the top of the boot - it had never been connected to anything though it had been through several MoTs in the UK! Anyway, I have ended up feeding the wire into the bumper area - currently it's connected to one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B082VH312R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title - which is NOT an LED and also comes with no bulb or wiring, which I am currently hanging from one of the lower bumper supports as the 'strap' between it and the bumper has been broken off. I need to get the earth working but it will do the job of passing the MoT in April, and if I can get the LED reflectors sorted before then all the better, I can easily remove the hanging light. I just need to find out how to get the rear reflector strips off the bumper - it looks like I can either: 1) remove the bumper or 2) try and unscrew them from underneath Which will be easier / quicker? *** Update *** Well, that could have gone better. The fog light is working at least, so I moved onto trying to get the wing-mirror auto-retract module working but in the process I seem to have killed the sunroof, indicators and radio (at least). The whole lot is quite a tangle of extra wires accumulated over the 19 years of life it's had, as well as a very basic camper-van 'conversion' so trying to trace stuff is troublesome. If it wasn't so cold I would still be out there.

I don't like using the sill area as a jacking point and I found that putting a jack with a wood block under the sub-frame would lift the vehicle (a Citroen at the time) a treat - just being careful of pipes and not a part like the suspension arm that would move.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm pretty sure it's in the middle but I will check tomorrow. Equally I guess it's possible that the switch is in the middle but the signal that says so isn't getting through.