I think the car is down on hybrid power until I can do a battery rebuild, so I wouldn't like to comment on the umph until that's sorted The Gen2 Alphard has 110kW of electric power while the Gen1 has only 13kW. I believe the Gen2 Alphard's hybrid system is basically the same as the 2006-19 Estima, as that has the same battery configuration (double decker battery between the front seats). They aren't 18650 cells, they're NiMH blades in both 8 and 12 cell versions (9.6V and 14.4V nominal), totalling 244.8V. There are 15 voltage taps readable from Techstream; the 8 cell batteries are doubled up so the voltage is of a 16S configuration (19.2V nominal). The Gen1 Alphard Hybrid shares the same battery configuration as the Prius - 6 cell blades making 201.6V - under the front seats (indeed a popular swap is with a modern Gen3 or Gen4 Prius battery). Aside from the battery, from what I've seen so far the way the hybrid system is organised looks similar to the Gen3 Prius (and relatives, eg 2013-20 Yaris Hybrid which has the same 3rd gen hybrid system as the Prius C), however the ABS looks more similar to the Gen2 Prius setup.

Hi, I had an estima before my alpy and love the Alphard but it's a 3l V6. More umph. 😁 I believe the alphard hybrid cells are 18650 batteries or I might be wrong.

Hi My neighbour ex Royal Navy Electrical Engineer volunteered to have a look at it whilst I went on holiday and found a fuse had blown in the small fuse box by the steering wheel under the dash..replaced and hey presto all working again!! I have looked at all sorts of issues but now has full power steering and all issues resolved. Thanks for you comments. I am one happy chappy

Hi All, Thank you so much for all your ideas and feedback. Gemini was a peach in helping diagnose the problem. Some guys in Birmingham that I spoke to also pointed me in the same direction. The answer was a failing solid state relay. So the passenger side assembly relay ( the box with the fuses underneath it) was the culprit. At one point I thought it was impossible to unplug the original unit and almost gave up. The system was registering key fob signal, however wasn't doing anything. The dead drivers door unlock switch was a sign of the unlock system issue rather than a dead motor in the actuator. One door that is separate from the rest is the tailgate. That would unlock if tried opening the door. Symptoms of the issue are intermittent unlock issues. That means the relay is starting to stick and will fail. Mine was showing symptoms for a few months before complete fail. Like an ostrich, I buried my head in the sand and hoped it will just go away. But before I bought the assembly relay, I did change the actuator motor in the driver's side door. I also learned that I won't take anything like that apart again without something filming the process. So much swearing... If budget allows just buy a whole unit. It's not designed to be decompiled. Anyways, passed my MOT for another year. The Alphard continues to ferry our family of 6 with it's sleeper 3.5L Love the roar, love tyre squeal. Love that car.

Gamith has covered what I'd do. First give it an OBD scan and note fault codes. It is likely to be screaming lots of codes as so much isn't working. Any OBD tool should be able to read the codes, it doesn't need to be fancy. Then, based on any clues given by the scan, work through the fuseboxes checking all the fuses. Also look for any signs of corrosion. Next, pull the relays and check they operate correctly when 12v is applied to the coil: you can find out the coil with a multimeter because it typically is a pair of pins with a resistance of tens or hundreds of ohms, while the contacts read as either 0 ohms or off the scale. Also don't forget grounding. The fuses control power flow from the positive side of the battery, but the negative side of all your auxiliaries are all connected together, often via the chassis. If lots of auxiliaries share a ground then a bad or corroded connection can affect them all. It's worth taking a thorough look for anything that might be corrosion near wiring. I don't have a wiring diagram for the non hybrid, but perhaps someone has one?

It looks like the setup is that it's a 'man in the middle' of the resistive touch panel. Resistive touch uses 4 wires (X+, X-, Y+, Y-) and it seems like this unit has two sets of 4 wires, one in from the display and one out to the native head unit. That means it can intercept touches when it's showing Android and forward them on when showing a screen from the native head unit. When both are combined on one connector you get 8 wires into the Android unit. I can't quite work out the wiring from the pictures as to where the 2x4 to 8 combiner is going (is it the small board with top/bottom/left connectors, or the yellow board?) but the empty connector on the yellow board has a different shape, so maybe it's used with a different model of Android unit with different connectors. Often this kind of thing is like a kit of Lego that you build for different vehicles - the bits can often be found on AliExpress as generic adapter boards. Often they include various connectors of different sizes in parallel and you just connect the one you have. (That was a long way of saying I don't know, but could probably work it out with some clearer pictures. Anyhow, I don't think it's important)