Hi All.

I noticed that when temperatures are approaching freezing and when the engine is cold such as having been off overnight it consistantly results in a hard start / longer start process:

It always starts and no issues after starting.

It requires key turn to ignition position for up to 3 seconds longer than would be expected from an instant start.

It cranks strong and likely not related to battery issue?

water remover and fuel injector cleaner added to fuel without improving the issue.

this is a new issue this winter, no issue last winter.

Anyone experience this issue and has resolved it?

Cheers,

Mark

Hi Mark!

As an experiment, before going for crank, turn the key to the ON position for a couple of seconds, twice, so the fuel pump fully pressurises the lines, then go for the start up.

See if it helps at all!

Cheers, Nev

Thank you for the response Neville, I will try and report back.

Try cleaning the MAF sensor, see if that improves it

18 hours ago, BigNev said:

Hi Mark!

As an experiment, before going for crank, turn the key to the ON position for a couple of seconds, twice, so the fuel pump fully pressurises the lines, then go for the start up.

See if it helps at all!

Cheers, Nev

No effect. SO I guess that means its less likely to do with fuel delivery? (fuel filter, pump, can i rule out injectors?)

7 hours ago, dezufo said:

Try cleaning the MAF sensor, see if that improves it

I will inspect and try that next. I am hoping it is easily accessible.

Can you tell me the theory behind MAF sensor's impact on a car starting? Thank you.

Dirty sensor does not read the true air flow. It is in the air intake of the manifold you can get spray cleaner off eBay or Amazon do not try wiping it as you might break it

Hi Mark!

Whilst not totally conclusive, on top of what you've done by using some injector cleaner, it's probably, not definitely, not fuel realted.

Guessing at bits now, but how old are the plugs?

And as it's the 2.4 litre, 4 cylinder, if in any doubt it's easy to put some new ones in there!

I don't know what yours takes, mine were Denso, I went originals, nowadays cars can be very fussy on electronics!

Cheers, Nev

A thought - could it be a low-quality petrol that doesn't ignite easily?

As it runs Ok otherwise I would assume it's not fuel starvation.

3 hours ago, BigNev said:

Hi Mark!

Whilst not totally conclusive, on top of what you've done by using some injector cleaner, it's probably, not definitely, not fuel realted.

Guessing at bits now, but how old are the plugs?

And as it's the 2.4 litre, 4 cylinder, if in any doubt it's easy to put some new ones in there!

I don't know what yours takes, mine were Denso, I went originals, nowadays cars can be very fussy on electronics!

Cheers, Nev

Vehicle is the V6 unfortunately. plugs are hard to reach according to my mechanic.

2 hours ago, Gamith said:

A thought - could it be a low-quality petrol that doesn't ignite easily?

As it runs Ok otherwise I would assume it's not fuel starvation.

half way thru a full tank of premium fuel.

4 hours ago, dezufo said:

Dirty sensor does not read the true air flow. It is in the air intake of the manifold you can get spray cleaner off eBay or Amazon do not try wiping it as you might break it

Cleaned by dunking MAF in cup with 70%+ alcohol for a while, swirling it. I resorted to compressed air and wipes to get gunk off exposed resin bulb.

What I observed:

pre cleaning:

resin/glass bulb was covered in black coating/dust on one side (no i do not use a rechargable air filter).

I did not inspect the 2 filiments inside the wind baffles.

post cleaning:

bulb is dark amber, but appears totally clean. I cant remember original colour of the resin bulb.

2 filiments protected by wind baffles appeared to be clean and in good shape.

1) Excited to see if I wrecked the thing and am unable to drive home from work

2) Excited to see if I fixed it tommorow morning on a totally cold engine.

Thank you for all of your continued support.

Update on 1) . tried to start car at work. It started, but my cleaning has seemingly made it worse, too additional time with ignition in on position for car to start.

2) Ill see how it works out tommorow morning. I will be ordering a MAF sensor if it is worse than before. Hopefully that is the root cause.

hi your profile says yours is a 2.4 hybrid then you mention yours a 3.0v6 your going to get the wrong help from members is it a 2.4 or a 3.0v6

Indeed!! My point on plugs as an example!

But, yes the V6 is far more difficult to change plugs, but I did mine myself in a couple of leisurely hours. Depends on what year yours is now!

11 hours ago, Picasso said:

hi your profile says yours is a 2.4 hybrid then you mention yours a 3.0v6 your going to get the wrong help from members is it a 2.4 or a 3.0v6

Hi. I previously owned the 2.4 4 cylinder hybrid as per my profile. I am asking for help for my 3.0 V6.

Update on 2) Startup in the morning didn't seem to get better or worse. I took my time to clean the MAF without damaging it, but the alcholic solution may have had additives which affects performance.

As a last ditch effort, I may get official MAF sensor cleaner. and then decide if its worth a shot to replace the MAF sensor itself.

Or could it be something else, such as spark plugs?

A more general question: why would my MAF function differently when my engine is cold?

Hi if I was you change your profile to the 3.0 v6 if you no longer have the 2.4 regarding the maf sensor it would make no difference to starting 99% time if problem with maf sensor would be bringing engine light on I if you don’t know the service history when plugs was changed I would change them

6 hours ago, Picasso said:

Hi if I was you change your profile to the 3.0 v6 if you no longer have the 2.4 regarding the maf sensor it would make no difference to starting 99% time if problem with maf sensor would be bringing engine light on I if you don’t know the service history when plugs was changed I would change them

I think Mark has two Alphards - a 2.4 and a 3.0. I guess he could always create a second account for discussions on the 3.0?

I'm wondering what else it could be:

could the petrol be taking it's time to get to the engine? maybe there is something like a non-return valve that is not working or missing. That could happen after any long time of not being used, not just when it's cold though.

weak coils or spark plugs would surely show up when running.

a loose earth would show other symptoms

blocked air filter would be worse when running I would imagine

Are there any codes showing on an OBD? If you don't have one then it would be a good move to get one - they needn't be expensive but you will need one that is JOBD compatible.

I would say plugs also worth checking battery is good as you need a good battery to start the 3.0v6 mark has not mentioned what the weather like in Canada as I know it can be cold so good battery ideal also grade of oil can make a difference to starting engine

On 2/27/2026 at 9:00 AM, Picasso said:

I would say plugs also worth checking battery is good as you need a good battery to start the 3.0v6 mark has not mentioned what the weather like in Canada as I know it can be cold so good battery ideal also grade of oil can make a difference to starting engine

Weather currently just below freezing with a few days down to -10c, generally damp.

oil is 5w30 vavoline restore and protect.

I have the ability to recondition my battery, so ill do that tonight.

Adequate spark is what I am going after... plugs and coil.

Thank you for everyones thoughts.