Please could I get some advice.....

2007 2.4 AH10

So you've replaced your alternator twice, changed the 140amp fuse, checked every fuse and earth and changed the battery, tested multiple wires and connections with a multi meter and your charging system is still not working.....🤬

Then you notice that the battery dash light, indicators and reverse lights don't work, and you start researching if a faulty battery light will stop the alternator charging. You take apart the instrument cluster to find that the led's are all part of the circuit board and wonder if a 2nd hand board might work....

Can a faulty battery light stop the alternator circuit from charging?

Should I just try and get an auto electrician to try and solve the issue?

I don't want to sell my Alphie but I am getting very frustrated with not being able to drive it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!

It sounds as though you have done all the stuff that would be able to find the issue

Personally I would, at this stage, call in an auto-electrician, otherwise you could be chasing your tail for ages and changing everything under the sun.

I assume that the belt is tight, doesn't slip and that the alternator turns.

Assuming that the replacement alternators weren't old we can discount, for example, worn brushes or other item-specific issues.

With the engine running there should be an input voltage to the alternator (12v) and, obviously, an output voltage (14v).

I would redo the earth connections 'just in case' and take a record of the voltages at various points.

Disconnecting the alternator, with the engine off, would allow you to take measurements across the feeds, then turn on the ignition on and see if the measurements change at all.

I have found this picture that goes through the connections on a 2008 - I don't know how relevant that might be to yours though. I'm sure there are better diagrams around.

Good luck

Have you had it long?

What were the symptoms leading up to this point?

Just a simple test

With the engine off, measure the voltage across the battery terminals.

Ought to be about 12.2v (ish)

If 10.6v you have a dead cell, new battery required.

Start engine, measure battery voltage, should be around 14v. Alternate delivering voltage, if not current.

I think you have already done this.

Kwik Fit will probably be able to do a battery test (under load) and an alternator test for free.

I now have a smart charger which does these tests; not cheap but worth it.

I have found, on my MZ, a lower battery charge is likely to cause various gremlins, not least of which will be false warning lights showing.

Standard practice is also to check, clean, tighten all leads on alternator and battery. BE CAREFUL.

It may help to get a clamp meter to measure DC current and measure the current flow at various points. Is there current flowing from the alternator, is it flowing into the battery? Is it going into the dash, the indicators, etc?

Check both sides positive and negative. If you find current is not flowing, then measure the voltage along various bits of wiring. eg if there's a wire that goes from the battery to the ignition, put one multimeter probe on the battery terminal and another where the wire meets the ignition. A good wire should have a low voltage difference along it (substantially below 1V), but a bad (high resistance) wire will have a much greater voltage. The same would happen if something is interrupting the wire, for example a blown fuse. When a high current is flowing, there's more voltage drop along a wire and you should see that in your voltage measurement. That's why the lights dim when the starter is running.

This is the sort of thing an auto electrician will do to try to narrow down the fault. My stab in the dark might be to suspect a grounding fault - it's easy to check a positive wire that's obviously there, but if the return current relies on the component having a good chassis connection then that could get corroded and be overlooked.

Is the original poster still here / interested?

Or have you sorted it?