PaulE

If it is the rear motor then it may not have anything to do with the cooling system as this to my knowledge just cools the inverter. I don't have any knowledge about the electric motors but hopefully it was a one off. Perhaps other members might be able to advise. Back to the inverter cooling pump they do have a finite life and it seems it is common to change them on all Toyota hybrids. I haven't found a video on changing the pump on the Alphard but may be worth changing before it fails if there is the budget to do it and keep the old one as a spare. A genuine Toyota one is about £250 but after market ones are available. I have attached the instructions (pdf) my supplier gave me and which I gave to my local garage- I accept no responsibility for them but the garage worked it out ok. I also attach a Youtube showing the coolant cap at 0.43. Hybrid coolant pump.pdf

Did you check the hybrid coolant level which is the cap on the RH side of the radiator (as you look at it) as the inverter cooling uses a separate part of the radiator (the bottom part- see diagram) to the engine side. I put this on a previous post. "You can usually check if the inverter pump is working visually. Put the bonnet up-wait until the engine is cool, start it and carefully remove the hybrid coolant filler cap which is to the right of the radiator as you look at it (opposite side to the expansion tank). You should see movement in the coolant, sometimes it bubbles up and down a little. If no movement then it might be the pump assuming the system is full. Don't run this for more than it takes to view and refix the cap. A diagnosis with something like Toyota Techstream would confirm. I had to change mine last year and had a code DTC P3130 Inverter cooling system."

It would be interesting to see how many Forum members have a hybrid especially series1 and how many have had issues with the hybrid system and at what mileage. A hybrid battery should last 200,00 miles but not without some attention within that time and getting to find someone who is capable and willing to repair/ service them correctly is a big issue ( I suspect it is an issue with all EV cars new and old). My battery needed repair at about 67000 miles and I was lucky to get Mark at Hybrid repairs Torquay to do it and the vehicle was down for 3 months it also needed a new inverter pump shortly after but that might be the interval when servicing is needed. Since then the vehicle has been very good except having to recently change the V belt tensioner which took a while to get. I would consider a 2.4 petrol version if you are put off the hybrid as these are more likely to be repaired by most garages and give good mileage.

I have ordered a new primary release motor from ebay which might do it but I notice that the door will open via the button on the dash suggesting this might not be the fault. The door will also not open from the inside using the handle- does anyone have any ideas please.

My passenger slide door black button has been a bit temperamental for a while but doesn't work at all now. Power door is fine by pulling the handle. The 12v battery has started draining overnight since the button went fully faulty. If I turn the power doors off at the dash switch then the 12v battery has been fine. I assume the drain might be due to the power being always on if the dash switch is left on. Can members advise what I need to repair or replace the button mechanism (inc. part no. if possible) and how do I remove the door trim to get to it? Just a thought- have always had an issue with 12v battery drain if van not used for a few days especially in winter. Wondering if the power doors have always been the issue?

You can usually check if the inverter pump is working visually. Put the bonnet up-wait until the engine is cool, start it and carefully remove the hybrid coolant filler cap which is to the right of the radiator as you look at it (opposite side to the expansion tank). You should see movement in the coolant, sometimes it bubbles up and down a little. If no movement then it might be the pump assuming the system is full. Don't run this for more than it takes to view and refix the cap. A diagnosis with something like Toyota Techstream would confirm. I had to change mine last year and had a code DTC P3130 Inverter cooling system.

My coolant is full (Toyota Pink) but I always have to turn it up to 27 to get any heat. Perhaps this is normal. Good job you looked at the coolant level though.

Mark at Hybrid Services in Torquay is a very helpful and knowledgeable man who repaired my HV battery last year. It's worth asking his advice. I do know he has been ill this last week so be patient for a reply. email@hybridrepairservice.co.uk

I have a Nextbase dashcam I originally plugged into the 12v lighter socket but later "hardwired" it to the 12v socket positive connection using Wago style connectors incorporating an inline fuse I bought off ebay (I removed the centre console panel to get to it- make sure you put tape over the gear lock button to stop it falling out). I think I had to solder a short lead from the lighter socket red lead as it is very short. The cable can be pushed behind the headlining where it meets the windscreen and then behind the grab handle covering and then down behind the pillar- it is easy to prise the covering and push the cable behind. Under the dash below the steering wheel I found a nut for the neg connection and then ran the red pos connection to the lighter socket- I think I extended the red lead to do this - the cable will go through a small gap from the footwell to the centre console but is a bit of a phaff. It is an easier connection than trying to get to the fuse boxes on the hybrid but the dashcam is only on when the ignition is on. If you want "always on" recording another member might suggest something. Cheers

This download was 139mb and was checked by my virus scanner ok- haven't looked closely yet but seems very detailed -1375 pages.

I Found these on a Mexican website and downloaded the series 1 manual and it appears very detailed. 1375 pages via pdf and it only cost £17. There are other series also at low prices. I think these may be similar to the Russian manuals you see online as a few Russian words come up. The link is below and I have added a couple of screenshots to give you an idea. Regrettably no hybrid manuals. Search: 6 results found for "toyota alphard" – MANUAL TALLER

I purchased a rear wiper from ebay £6.99 fits and works fine. Rear Window Wiper Blade 16 Inch 400mm Exact Fit For Toyota Alphard 2003-Onwards | eBay

Found this company on ebay called "Million Parts". They have broken an Alphard hybrid for parts so if you are looking for anything they might be worth a try. They may have other Alphard bits also. alphard hybrid | eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/millionpartsltd

Just had the garage check it and you were correct- it is the belt tensioner- need a new belt also so if you can advise the part no. it would be appreciated. Garage say I can still use the vehicle which is a relief. Thank you for the help.

Yes please let me have part no. for belt- local garage checking it tomorrow, cheers.

Hi, thanks for the info- if it is the belt tensioner where is the best place to get one- I clicked the link but Partsouq showed "nothing found"- I searched on Toyota EPC and found the info attached- are there any other suppliers I could try?

Not sure what is needed, I assume if it is the alternator I would have to replace it but if anyone can advise me what is required and if anyone has had a similar issue.

Hello, the - what I think is the alternator or the area near it has suddenly become very noisy (see video) sounds like a bearing noise. If it is the alternator can it be fixed or is it a replacement. The belt appears to be in good condition but is it best to replace that also? If replacement where is the best place to buy one and can anyone supply me with a part no. please. Series 1 hybrid E4 - vin ATH10 0013973. many thanks 20240214_104856.mp4

I had the exact same symptoms about a year ago and it was down to 2x units in the HV battery failing. Mark rebuilt the HV battery and it is actually better than before- vehicle had done about 70k miles. 6 weeks later the Inverter pump failed and Mark supplied me one and my local garage fitted it. Might be worth having both done as inverter cooling pumps have a finite life and you need to protect the inverter. It is worth contacting Mark and I am sure he would give you the best advice.

We spent 2 years deciding what to buy and we found a lot of info looking at Jap car Finder Bradford as he puts his vehicles on Youtube. We haven't dealt with him so can't guarantee how good he is but he seems to have a good reputation and he imports a wide range of Jap vehicles. The main thing is you can learn a great deal from his in depth videos. Always check out a dealers reputation there are some bad ones. It's worth a look on Used Toyota Alphard Cars For Sale In Bradford West Yorkshire At JAP Car Finder Ltd (website) or (71) JAP CAR FINDER LTD - YouTube and you can see previous videos

The acknowledgement is much appreciated- good luck. Any more questions- please ask.

From my own experience with a series 1 Hybrid- in retrospect I would buy the series 1 petrol 2.4 as the hybrid only gives a marginal increase in fuel economy ( if the HV battery is on top line) and it would avoid any issues with the hybrid system which is expensive to fix and difficult to find anyone who will touch it. I had my HV battery rebuilt this year and was lucky to get a professional who knew the vehicle but it was off the road for 3 months (so far is working very well). The petrol only versions I believe are usually very reliable- I have had no issues with the petrol engine so far in 2 years. I don't know if the series 2 hybrids are more reliable. Try finding a reputable dealer- forum members have given recommendations if you look for them on the forum. I bought mine from Dave at Vine Place Motors in Durham and the vehicle was ( and still is) in top condition despite the issue I had with the hybrid which was 2 years down the line. It would be worth contacting a few dealers to see what is on offer and how they speak to you. Avoid any vehicles which have had jiggery-pokery done to the mileage- you don't have to have it converted- I have a HUD in mph on my windscreen and I never look at the speedometer and you just tell the garage the ODO is in km at MOT time.

I can advise you of my experiences over the last two winters. First one the 12v battery died over Xmas / New year as I hadn't kept using the vehicle- changed the 12v and car started but the headlight dash symbol was illuminated even though HL not switched on but removing key and starting again solved this- have had this a couple of times since after disconnecting the 12v and going through removing key and restarting solved it. Last winter we had covid and couldn't use the van for some weeks and the 12v was dead . Changed the 12v battery after the last experience but had the same errors as you. Turned out after checking with Techstream there was an issue with the HV battery- 2 units were down. Had to have the battery professionally fixed by Mark at Hybrid Services Torquay. He did suggest to check if the HV was an issue to run the engine (at idle) and see if it cycled normally between the petrol and the HV battery - in other words after so long the petrol would switch off and then switch on again when the HV needed boosting again. N.B. Don't have the aircon, heater or other electric drains on when you do this. You might also look at the hybrid display on the HD unit and see if the charging of the bars seemed ok or a bit odd. Mine would go to 4bars then to one. Another issue could be the hybrid inverter cooling pump- mine went faulty some weeks after having the HV repaired and gave the same dash errors- you can check by running the engine from cold and remove the Hybrid filler cap (to the right of the radiator) and see if the fluid is moving- if it isn't then may be the pump- if it is don't run the engine for any period of time as the inverter may overheat. Also disconnecting the neg terminal on the 12v for 20 mins will reset the faults but if there is an actual fault they will usually re appear after about 20 mins of running the engine. I am no expert- this is all through experience- still learning. Cheers.

A bad 12v battery will stop the hybrid system from working- happened to me and the correct replacement is not cheap. It is a good starting point.

Hi, If not the date I wonder if they are vin no. sequences-my Techstream doesn't recognise the actual vin but gives a list of short sequences to choose from.