Rojie

Hello Richard, Welcome to the Forum

Hello Adam, Welcome to the Forum.

I am just trying to figure out the fuses you have highlighted. The 7.5A appears to be Ignition. The 10A appears to be Engine Computer, SRS. I am assuming your schematic illustration is the fuse box in the passenger side footwell. I have used the JPNZ Owners Manual for reference. I would recommend you obtain a copy. There is no fuse specifically assigned to the starter relay. Chris.ac is the Ace at wiring, and schematic diagrams. Perhaps a personal message to him would be helpful.

Hi Jordan, Welcome to the Forum. Are you located in Alberta ?

No. I'm not. What I am suggesting is worse. Firstly, I am not an expert on battery charge depletion. However, if you deplete the (maximum) charge held in your leisure battery by, say, more than 50%, it will need recharging otherwise it may be damaged permanently. If you have a 230A/hr battery it is logical to assume it will deliver 230A for an hour, or 1 A for 230 hours. Not no. Will you be running only 12 volt appliances from the leisure battery ? Or some mains invertor powered by the leisure battery. You may be surprised to learn just how much current some 12v appliances will take ! Will your leisure battery be monitorable with a voltmeter and a ammeter ? So you can be aware of just how much power an appliance, or several, will be drawing. Clearly, the more concurrent charge (power, i.e. voltage multiplied by current) you remove from a battery, the sooner the battery will approach its functional limit. Have a read of the article below, selected at random, to raise your awareness of Lithium Batteries (in this case). https://saft.com/energizing-iot/lithium-ion-batteries-use-5-more-tips-longer-lifespan A ps to my last offering. Buying privately does not attract VAT, thereby, potentially offering a 'like for like' cost avoidance. VAT is not recoverable unless your vehicle will be for business use. Buying privately does not provide the legal protection, or warranty, available directly, or indirectly, from a business seller. All I am really suggesting is that, perhaps, before parting with £40k, to any vendor, you do more research on your power needs. Should you have no intention of wild camping in the colder months, your power requirements will be much lower. As a footnote, I do not wild camp, but with a mains EHU I can run various kettles, induction hobs, heaters, dehumidifiers, TVs, PCs, etc. but not all concurrently !

Is your vehicle a AH10 or AH20 ? 2008 was the crossover year between Gen1 and Gen 2 machines.

Thanks for the update on the specification. I don't pretend to be knowledgeable regarding values. You do seem to have specified the vehicle very highly. I hope that someone with a similar specifications from the same vendor will offer comment. Pop-tops are not cheap. There is a lot of labour needed for a professional conversion. Unfortunately, of course, there is also the dreaded VAT which will be a large 'chunk' of the sales price. 230A/hr is quite a lot for a leisure battery, but it's suitability depends on the demand drawn from it. Using a battery beyond 50% of its rated value is not a good plan. I would produce a detailed summary of your electrical needs to support your assorted 'domestic' stuff; especially heating in the cold winter off grid sessions, and compare that with the concurrent ability of the 'electrics' to support those needs. Did you consider an EHU, although of no use with wild camping or is that how you intend to use the Victron ? Good luck, and make sure you know who will repair and service the Hybrid system BEFORE you purchase from anyone.

Insist on a copy of the auction certificate. 40k seems high (to me and my pocket), but you don't detail anything about the specification of the conversion.

Nice machine but rather too young for most of us Brits to be able to help you with advice.

Send a Personal Message to Picasso

I believe, on the early 2.4 litre vehicles there is enough room in the engine bay for a leisure battery. I recall it was covered within the forum quite a long time ago.

You may need to bleed air out of the cooling system. There is a method buried somewhere in this forum. Or possibly the heater flap valve is faulty, again covered n the forum. Is your thermostat stuck open ?

Well done that dealer.

Hello Tim, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Jon, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Ben, Welcome to the Forum.

It is not uncommon for convertors to leave the rails in place, and cover with some medical grade flooring. If you have a seven seater, each middle seat is secured by 4 bolts to the sliders (beneath plastic covers) and are easy to remove. I don't know, but expect the rear seats are the same. I believe you will need to remove the carpet and some insulation to access the rails to remove them and slide out the sliders / seat carriers. Then replace them, or not, as you need. Good luck

Interesting. As Japanese winters tend to be colder that UK ones, especially in the southern UK, I would expect Japanese antifreeze to be more than capable of coping with UK winters. However, of course, you will not know whether, and/or by how much, the antifreeze has been diluted. Any decent garage should be able to measure your coolant mixture and assess its suitability / effectivity for an UK winter.

Hello Richard, Welcome to the Forum. Have you checked the section in the forum on recommended garages yet ?

It is quite common, but that doesn't necessarily mean easy. Are you planning a fixed bed in the rear, or a rock & roll bed with a side conversion. Just the rear seats ? Not the middle ones ? You should be able to fold all the seats almost flat and put an airbed on top to level out for comfort. There are simple conversions, and complex ones ! I believe to remove the seat rails from the seat runners you need to (at least partially) lift the seat rails to slide out the runners. That involves removing carpets, insulation, etc. At least the nuts on the underside of the floor should be captive ! This topic is covered somewhere on the forum. You can search with the search box on your home page.

I agree. Your van seems to be lacking undersealing. Especially if you live near the coast.

Are you planning on driving an unregistered vehicle on the road? Don't. You will need an MOT at least to get the van registered, and you must have Insurance before you drive it. Some insurers will not meet a claim if the vehicle does not have a valid MOT.

Hi Mate, Welcome to the Forum. Are you aware the rear seats can be folded upright against the rear quarters and held there (almost) out of the way ? May meet your needs if your load isn't too big.

Hello Tony, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Marcus, Welcome to the Forum.