Rojie

10 hours ago, Alasdair said:

I'd it possible to get slightly longer rods for the tailgate to open up a little bit higher.....away from head height

I doubt it. Most Japanese are quite short; so there was never a need.

You may just need to renew the ones you have.

The large letter is important, as that determines the 'load' the pneumatic rods can 'cope' with.

They do get tired.

They do come in different sizes.

I know because I bought some from AliExpress, and they were incorrect. It was my mistake. I took a risk.

Surprisingly, my local Toyota dealer was able to supply the correct type but at nearly 400 pounds the pair.

I did find a UK company that offered to re-gas mine; but they had never done an Alphard before.

They asked so many questions, I didn't proceed as I deemed it to risky.

Good Luck with your search.

5 hours ago, Jordan Doust said:

Hi Folks,

 

I've managed to lose my key and now my alphie is stuck away from home, luckily under cameras and two seconds away from a police station. 

 

Does anyone know who I can call to get a new key programmed to the car near the central belt of Scotland?

 

Thank you,

Jordan

Do you have a key ?

I think you will need one for a mechanical copy to be made.

Ideally, it should be a Master.

However, I am assuming you now have no key at all.

I would be looking for an Auto Locksmith, and hope that they can help you.

Good Luck, I have a feeling you'll need it.

4 hours ago, Thom said:

Hi All. 

Has anyone got the brackets for the roof rack roof mounts for a roof rack or roof bars which are off an Alphard 2005.

I have found an engineer in my local area who "Can Make anything" He specialises in all things roof rack and can replicate the original and make them to fit standard Thule roof bars for £10 each which is £40 for the lot!

Does anyone have a set which can be photographed and measured - Length / Width / Showing any bends etc.

Could be an inexpensive way to get a roof rack should you so desire one.

Your help would be invaluable.

Kind Regards

Thom

Hello Thom,

Welcome to the Forum

1 hour ago, Al F said:

Hello - I'm new here and actually don't yet have an Alphard. But I want to get one and I am hoping for some advice on who I can trust re buying and maintaining a Campervan Conversion. I'm not a mechanic or a petrol head.   I don't want to be ripped off! 

 

What do I know?

• To ask for import certificate to see what grade it was on import (4B etc) and photos if possible  -  If BIMTA / Import cert not available buy one from VX ( I have set up account)
• To make sure lightweight ply has been used for conversion (not MDF)  - if buying used then ask which company did the conversion
• I need a side conversion (not rear) - with RnR bed
• I want 240v hook up
• It's just for me to tour UK / Europe - off grid where possible - want Pop Top with Solar Panel, Fridge (accessible when bed down), Cooker / Microwave, Potti
• As new a model as poss - post 2006 so ULEZ compliant??
• Low mileage - c 40 to 50k seems reasonable  - or should I not worry about this?
• I'd like a modern Head Unit for Sat Nav / DAB etc

 

What I need help with...

• Which dealers are trustworthy in the SOUTH WEST (Somerset/ Devon/ Dorset etc) - I've heard some horrid tales! 
• Which conversions are really good - not necessarily the most expensive!
• A trustworthy mechanic for servicing within 50 miles of Taunton, Somerset
• if Hybrids are worth considering (just sold a Mitsubishi PHEV) - or is LPG option better?
• Which models have cam belts?  When should they be changed?
• Do I have to worry about Cat Converters? (e.g. like Nissan Elgrand?)
• What type of Head Unit should I get (I'm an Apple user)

 

Any other wisdom and advice is warmly welcomed.

 

Thank you

Al F

 

 

Hello Alan,

Welcome to the Forum.

Dealers ? Some are good, some are not.

There are several dealers mentioned in this Forum for their 'quality and service'.

Lots of reading to do !

The best conversion is the one that meets your needs and is within budget.

The choices are very personal. There is a company in, or near, Barnstaple.

You could start your search there.

Funky Ram is a trade member of the Forum.

The Gen 1 V6 has has a cam belt. However, it is a non-interference engine (which means the valves won't hit the pistons if only the cam belt fails).

Other (common) engines use chains.

Good luck in your search.

9 hours ago, Dame said:

Key disables the immobiliser indicated on the dash as normal.

 

 

If the 140amp fuse was blown; something serious happened !

Probably reverse polarity of jump leads ! If not, something else failed big time.

I'm afraid I think you need a visit by a very competent mobile auto electrician; or a flat bed to your garage.

You probably know this, but, you should never tow an automatic transmission.

15 hours ago, Hard Lightning said:

Good evening all,

This is our first post, we are in the process of purchasing a Vellfire 2.4L day camper and as part of the insurance quotation the brokers have requested the vehicle has a tracker and immobiliser fitted  …is this a common request as it has been implied that this is a requirement from most insurers?

 

Any insight would be appreciated as the pool of insures appears limited for Japanese imports of this type converted to a camper.

 

Any feedback gratefully received.

Hello Stephen,

Welcome to the Forum.

No it isn't normal for insurers to insist on a tracker.

I think most Alphies/Vellfires have immobilisers fitted as standard; mine certainly does.

Getting Insurance can be hit and miss but this thread has loads of feedback.

Getting insurance for converted vans is more tricky; some insurers won't touch them.

Lots of reading for you to do !

Good Luck.

15 hours ago, Chris Stringer said:

Hi there,

Has anyone else had issues with the keyless lock/unlock on their Alphard. My wife and I have just been to Devon for a week, and at times we had to resort to using the mechanical key to lock/unlock the vehicle. We changed the battery in both keys, but even after that we still intermittently encountered difficulties using the keyless lock/unlock system.

Thanks 

Chris

Fit a new battery to the smart fob perhaps ?

33 minutes ago, ijk said:

I wonder if it's possible to retroactively add active cruise to an Alphard? 🤔

I doubt the radar unit will be cheap, even if all the wiring is there !

51 minutes ago, Dame said:

Hello everyone,

I had a bad battery, and after jumping it, car would not start.

Changed the battery, and also the (blown) 140a fuse.

Engine will turn over now, but not ignite.

Any ideas?

Hello Dame,

Welcome to the Forum.

16 minutes ago, Norman Gossip said:

Unable to find one anywhere 

Hi Norman,

Welcome to the Forum.

14 minutes ago, Norman Gossip said:

Unable to find one anywhere 

Try Snows in Plymouth, or Toyota Direct (you'll need the part number first).

Toyota/Alphard/epc.com or Picasso (who will need you VIN.

1 hour ago, Gavins said:

Hi all, I have 2008 alphard and looking to upgrade my driveaway awning and want to connect a piping rail on the vehicle, any experience with the best options

Hi Gavin,

Welcome to the Forum.

Search Awnings in the Forum.

It's a popular topic.

The search box is top right hand side of your home page.

I am sure you will find members experience, and ingenuity, very interesting.

1 hour ago, Tylersm90 said:

I’m using the battery charger to give the readings.  I just bought one of the Avon 8v electronic smart rechargers (AC1280IC). 
 

My little volt meter doesn’t have long enough leads to go round the front drivers seat - under which is the battery!  I did try checking +ve to earth but that gave a much lower reading 11.7v

 

The battery is dated 2021. And 85Ah but suspect it should be rated 75Ah. According to BBLBatteries where I initially had its voltage checked. 

 

I’ve always tested without removing anything so it’s always been under load I guess. 
 

The fridge is a Vitrifrigo compressor model F39 I OCN. code F130702FOS 12/24v drawing 2.68/1.29A. I think it’s part of their Ocean-Runner range. 
 

I have a control panel that shows roughly the draw on the battery. As it’s a dial with a red zone, an orange zone and a green zone with a pointer indicating the status.   The dial has only been in the yellow zone once or twice and I removed the offending device (a tv) from the power as soon as I noticed the status. The status always went back to the green zone after the TV was removed. 
 

sorry to go on but thanks for your help so far. 

Normally, testing a battery 'under load' involves disconnecting the battery from the vehicle and attaching a shunt across the battery terminals.

The shunt places a 'heavy load' on the battery for a short time.

The longer the battery can maintain an acceptable voltage, the healthier it is.

Did BBL Batteries do this test ? They probably had the equipment to.

If so, I guess your battery is OK.

11.7V is low, indeed, it indicates your battery is down to about  25 percent charge.

But, unless your voltmeter is across the battery terminals, any current flowing through any wiring will cause an inaccurate reading.

Do you leave the fridge on ?

An 85 amp/hr battery will supply your fridge for, in theory, 31 hours.

Not that long if left on overnight. (Depends how often the compressor runs).

BUT, and it's a big but. That would result in a totally flat battery.

Batteries should not be discharged beyond 50 percent, if that.

Having 85A/hr, rather than 75A/hr, capacity is helpful.

So, what would I do ?

I am unfamiliar with your new battery charger, I have a CTEK, but I would disconnect your leisure battery and charge it for a week with your smart charger.

Check that your battery charger is suitable for your leisure battery technology first.

Most batteries will hold their voltage (more correctly, charge) if not supplying current !

14.7v is a very 'healthy' voltage but, if you are measuring that whilst the charger is connected and on, you are measuring the output of the charger, not the battery.

My charger can read both, hopefully yours can too.

For what is worth my leisure battery is 110A/hr, physically larger, but not located under a seat.

It may also help if your battery and main load, the fridge, are closer physically and electrically together.

The longer the wire run, the more chunky the wiring needs to be.

Where is your split charger located ? Near the battery, or in the engine bay presumably.

I doubt I can be any more help, that is assuming any of this is helpful at all..

Hopefully other members with off grid experience will offer suggestions.

20 minutes ago, Babs said:

Picking up my converted Alphie this weekend. I’m nervous but really excited, and can’t wait to get out and about exploring in it, after months of research and planning. 
Tried out the toilet/utility tent yesterday and was impressed how easy it was to put up, but can’t get the flaming thing down now! Lol 
I predict there’ll be a few frustrations ahead as I learn more about campervan life,  but hopefully lots of fun too.
Hope to meet up with some group members in the months ahead. 😁

Hello Babs,

Welcome to the Forum.

Happy Campharding.

Hi Jorge,

I can't take this any further with you, but I am absolutely sure you will get some helpful suggestions from other members.

Is your odometer reading Kilometres or Miles ?

2 hours ago, Jorge Velasco said:

Just got a 2012 2.4l hybrid and am averaging only 6 km/l on ECO mode. What could be wrong?

14 mpg !

What kind of motoring are you doing.

How do you know (think) your kml is so low ?

Is it your battery charger that is providing the voltage readings or a voltmeter ?

Do you know the leisure battery voltage without the charger connected ?

Under load, and off load ?

Do you know what fridge you have ? Make and model.

Which room light isn't working ?

6 minutes ago, John Harrison said:

I had this on an old Bedford Ambulance. It was the coil!!!

Fitted a new coil, no problems!!!

John Harrison (2008 Vellfire)

Hi John,

I suspect your Bedford had a distributor.

I think, only think, these Toyota engines have a coil for each cylinder.

9 hours ago, Michael Brown said:

I used to drive Mk2 Estima's, the first mk2 I bought had 65,000 miles on it give or take. A couple of years later whilst in the Toyota Estima Owners Club ( it stopped in 2018). So I bought my 1st mk2 in 2011 and in 2013 a lady said she did a BIMTA (British Independant Motor Trades Association) done and found her Estima had been clocked, wound back somewhat and mentioned a garage by name and I thought that sounded familiar. So I had a BIMTA check done on mine giving the VIN number. You could have a mileage check done for around a tenner or a full rundown around £40. I just had the mileage check done. I was shocked to find  79,000 miles had been wiped from the clock. Prices will have changed over the years. If you are worried get a BIMTA done  and good luck.

Sorry to keep on about an auction sheet.

If an imported vehicle has it's odometer altered to display miles, it will be 'clocked'.

That is, the km reading will be lowered to the comparative miles. Totally legitimate.

But, there is an opportunity to 'over reduce' the km reading; that would be clocking as we all know it, and illegal.

The kilometre reading, at auction, will be on the auction sheet.

Maybe that is why some dealers don't provide it.

As ever, it is a case of Buyer Beware.

Question. Would BIMTA detect an unregistered recent import that has been clocked ?

1 hour ago, PalePisces90 said:

Problem was it was steadily draining all the time!

Probably, as you said, because no washer was fitted.

At least you got it resolved without incident.

Thanks for sharing.

13 minutes ago, Tylersm90 said:

I fully charged my leisure battery Thursday / Friday and drove 300km to Liverpool.  Stayed one night off grid, fridge on and phone chargers in use.   No TV, no computers etc. Drove home 300km with 3 short stops. Plugged in the battery charger this morning and leisure battery read just under 13v. But came up to over 13v very quickly. On charge now as it reached 14.7v on Friday.
 

trip took 4.5 hours should my leisure battery have re-charged in that time?  The battery seems to hold its charge if no devices attached. 

What is the condition of your starter battery and alternator ?

Do you know the age of the leisure battery ?

What capacity is your leisure battery ?

What is the current draw from your fridge ?

2 hours ago, derek sullivan said:

all i am saying guys is be very careful because there are a lot of dodgy dealers and sellers out there, make sure you have the vehicle checked over by someone who knows these vehicles inside out, dont jump in with both feet when you purchase one of these vehicles, there are plenty of these vehicles around, do your homework FIRST before parting with your cash.

I wholeheartedly agree with this advice.

There are several excellent importers. Their names appear in these pages quite frequently.

There are lots of dealers, similar to any other marque.

Some are good, some are not.

Most sellers do not spend on their vehicles before auction.

That is why the auction sheet can be so valuable.

Most imported vehicles need work, to pass the MOT at least.

Rear axle bushes are an example.

Many dealers do not have workshop facilities ! So which 'company' deals with your issues, if you have any ?

A good Alphie is a delight to own, it's worth the patience.

Beware the seller who is selling 'privately' from a forecourt.

The Law is quite different for business sales versus private sales.

Good luck in your search.

7 hours ago, derek sullivan said:

make sure the vehicle you purchase has a vin number, i think there are 16 digits, check that the mileage is correct, you will be able to purchase any manuals from ebay or amazon, which will cover your year. the vin number is very important for getting the correct spares when needed. good luck with your purchase.

My VIN number has 7 digits.

1 hour ago, Pete S. said:

Thanks Derek, all noted. Should I get a CVX check done? I think I need the chassis number for that. 
I don’t imagine the seller would give me that before I complete the purchase. 
I will however give it a very thorough inspection before I accept it. 

The vin number will be on the auction sheet, as will the 'mileage'

It won't look anything like a European one !

Also it should be on the vehicle plate on the passenger side  B pillar.

Without a VIN, DVLA will not produce any documents for you

Why wouldn't the seller give you the VIN number ?

Hopefully, you have not yet paid a deposit ?

The more 'guarded' the seller, the quicker you should walk away.

Difficult, I know, but .....

I bought an AA Inspection. VERY thorough and was well worth it for piece of mind.