Rojie

Hi Ian, If you mean delay time, there is another thread just started. Please switch to that one.

Hello Chamaco, Welcome to the Forum. Nice van. Enjoy.

Ask them for a copy of the Auction sheet. Very informative when you learn how to decode them.

Have you bought it at auction, or from a dealer ?

My chip was fitted by the seller near Heathrow. Send me a personal message for the contact. I don't see why he couldn't help you.

For a Gen 1 facelift. £15 for the correct key, £80 to programme it. As your vehicle is a grey import, Toyota dealers won't do it. I would go Japanese, assuming the key will be OEM.

The odometer will be digital, you need the correct chip to reduce the increments as you travel. The 'stick on' speedo dial is just a 'card'. It is a passive device. When I drove in Europe, not in an Alphie, I used a simple conversion sticker in the top right of the windscreen. About £5 from Halfords ! Depends where you van while spend most of its time. If there is a chip for Gen 2, and I can't believe there isn't, it is a very professional approach.

I believe that is the link, or something very similar. For the epc you will need the model number which is normally on the nearside B pillar. It will look like ANH20, or similar. The 'plate' should also have your VIN number. For some search engines the VIN is helpful; some not. There are only two sources for struts, that I know of. Toyota and Aliexpress.

Hello Lukey, Welcome to the Forum. I have not come across this before. I can't remember every reading that you can change that setting. Hopefully, I am wrong.

Interesting, magnetic strip worked for Starider, as above. Pop top will be fibreglass, I doubt very much that the roof is ! Maybe a stronger magnetic strip was needed. Great that the Velcro worked though.

Hi Jenny, After recently researching buying replacement struts thoroughly, and still getting it wrong..... I have applied WD40 to the hinges, carefully and sparingly, to reduce the friction. That action made a big difference. Having read Chris.ac post above, I decided to lightly oil the piston rods with thin oil. Slowly, slowly with multiple manual openings and closing of the tailgate between applications. It has improved things enormously; almost no judder now. I had been concerned about the electric mechanism, but Chris.ac reassured me it was unlikely to be that. I have a rear conversion, which limits access severely, but decided to very carefully apply some WD40 to the pivoting mechanism. I also 'lubricated the stay bar from the motor lever arm to tailgate. This had previously been tightened as it was rather loose. I'll probably need to lubricate this again, but it is easier, and much cheaper, that replacing the struts with OEM ones. If this method doesn't work I'll go OEM. Make sure you keep the lubricants well away from your interior trim ! This is an alternate method, not a tried and tested long term solution ! If you go OEM, there should be a large letter on the lower end of the strut body. That is the type ID of the correct fitted part.

Struts, yes, good suggestion especially if you are tall ! If buying struts, be careful. As I discovered, there are several. On my Gen 1 facelift, there is a large letter on the strut. That is the type you need. Read the ToyotaAlphardEPC carefully (and fully). Good Luck

Hi Mr Secretive, Welcome to the Forum. Try Cuttothechase on Youtube. Or Ldrego on here. I believe he did a video on this problem. It involves disconnecting the main battery.

This thread is intended for information only. It is not intended for discussion. The list was supplied by pcous regarding work done on his Alphard. Motorhome Habitation Annual Service Schedule UNDERBODY Body to chassis mountings - check security Cab to body junction - check Underbody tanks & auxiliaries - check Spare wheel retainer - check operation & lubricate Corner steadies & folding steps (where applicable) - Check operation & lubricate Chassis - lubricate axel tube (AL-KO) & Inspect non-original suspension components 12V ELECTRICS 12n & 12 plugs/cables (where applicable) - Check condition & test Road lights & reflectors - check condition & operation Fridge - check operation Interior lighting & equipment - check operation Habitation battery (where fitted) - Check condition, security, electrolyte level & lubricate terminals Wiring, earth's & fuses - inspect condition & correct fuse ratings Awning light & outside pump socket - check condition & operation Fan maste – test VENTILATION Ventilation openings - check for obstructions & free flow of air Adjustable ventilators - check for function Roof lights - check to ensure free of obstruction GAS (FRIDGE NOT SERVICED UNLESS REQUESTED) Regulator - check performance Carry out gas leak test Appliances (including water heater, cooker, heating & fridge) - check operation Pipe work - check condition & replace flexible hose & clips when necessary Flame failure device - check operation Cylinder - check security Gas dispersal holes - check for blockage MAINS ELECTRICS Inlet plug, hook up cable (when available) earth bonding & RCD operation - check Outlets & permanent connections - carry out visual & functional check WATER SYSTEM Water pump, pressure switch & heater - check operation & clean grit filter Taps, micro switch, valves, pipes & tank (If fitted) - check condition & operation Water filter & housing - check for leaks & replace filter if necessary Waste system - check for leaks Toilet - check seats, flush & blade operation FIRE SAFETY DIY additions - check operation & safety Security & smoke alarms - check operation Extinguisher (if fitted) - Check correct type fitted & expiry date Fire blanket (if fitted) - check location & fixing BODYWORK Body panels - check & report on any damage & sealant condition Door locks & hinges - check operation & lubricate Body attachments - check security (including ladders, cycle racks, lockers, aerials, satellite dishes etc) Floor - check for delamination Cab seat - check operation (swivel type or bed configuration only) Furniture - check condition & operation (incl. hinges, stays etc) Windows seals & blinds - check operation & condition Rising roofs - check operation (where applicable. I respectfully submit this as an example only. Thanks again to pcous for disclosing this list. The cost ? £75, plus VAT.

Hello Fraser, Thank you for asking for clarity on the issue of business users. The Forum does not allow commercial posts (touting for business) unless the author registers for a Trade Account. The reason for this is to spare our members from spamming. To apply for a Trade Account please contact Alphard Club. Please send specific business details through the personal message system. However, if John chooses to provide a recommendation, that is generally acceptable.

Hello Wilma, Welcome to the Forum. Seat and arm covers are available on ebay; or if you need to replace the entire arm rest try the salvage companies. Good Luck.

On the Gen 1 vehicles there is a chip that converts your (digital) odometer to miles. As the vehicle doesn't know, or care, what speed it is doing (in mph or km) there is a 'simple' fix of adding a mph dial over, or instead of, the kph one. There is a thread on here, I feel sure, (or maybe YouTube) on how to do this.

Hello ScottE, Welcome to the Forum. This topic is well covered in this Forum. Search for Radio Replacement in the search box.

160mm is not low to the ground. But.. Many Alphards are wearing big wheels and low profile tyres. That tends to lower the car considerably. Depending on the rear valance fitted, the rear clearance can be much more. As the cats are resold for quite large sums, a jack would do the trick !

I'm not sure, but I think you need it insured before you can tax it. Don't forget the undersealing this summer.

With a 4 speed auto it should be (about) 9.4km / litre; according to the Owners Manual.

UV should penetrate tinted glass; but the level of UV will be reduced with increasing level of tint. Unfortunately, not much UV should pass through a windscreen; especially the laminated ones, as the plastic laminate is a UV blocker !

Hi pcous, Thanks for your answer. It was a general enquiry intended for the informational benefit of all our members. Very thorough, and not an unreasonable price imho. Most Caravan suppliers will also be able to provide a Habitation Check service. Thanks again

Hello Liz, Are we talking leisure battery here ? Or do you have a Hybrid ? Presumably you have ordered the same capacity, Amp per Hour (Ah); that the battery is the same physical size; and that the terminals are in the correct configuration. The main battery will be under the bonnet in the engine bay. If you are changing your Hybrid, there are some threads on here. But I expect a member will be able to advise when they read your topic. If you are changing your main battery is is quite easy, but they are heavy. Let us know and we can tell you the correct order for disconnection and reconnection Whichever battery you are changing; make sure you have all the correct spanners before you start !

Hi Malheg, Welcome to the Forum. Nice machine.