Rojie

Hi Gary, Welcome to the Forum. You probably have a 2.4L engine. Regarding your battery. If you have power sliding doors, power tail gate, and power most other things; go for the largest that will fit in the engine bay. If your Alphie has the original Japanese battery, you may need different sized terminals as well. However, there is a thread on here, somewhere, where members have suggested batteries for us all to consider. Good Luck. Happy Alpharding.

Hi Starrider, and fellow members, If you are considering buying McGard locking wheel nuts for your beloved Alphie this will be of interest to you. I have solved the mystery of why my mechanic could not fit the locking wheel nuts ! With my first set one of the washers would not pass over the new security nut, I returned them, as agreed with the vendor, and await my refund. The second set, sourced direct from Germany, could not, initially, be fitted either ! Why ? If you refer to the photo above, the original nut (on the left) has a captive washer, the new security nut does not. The lateral play on the original washer is almost zero. The lateral play on the security nut is probably about a sixteenth of an inch. When fitting the new nut, there is a distinct tendency for the washer to fall from the nut and drop onto the thread of the wheel bolt. In such a position, it is impossible to tighten the new security nut ! You may be lucky as this does not happen every time, but when it does .... So, while resting on your hands and knees you have to manually lift the washer (while the nut is in the way) and hold it in the correct position while you hand tighten the new nut. NOT particularly easy. So, just imagine you have a flat tyre, on the offside, in the pouring rain, on a windy day, on a very busy A road, in the dark (holding a torch) !!! Even one of the rescue services will not find the task easy !. So, as Starider says, you MUST keep at least one of the original nuts which will fit perfectly, without hassle. When safe, the original nut can be replaced with the security nut. I suggest the security key and one original nut are kept in a very accessible place. So, whilst I feel the product is actually quite good, I cannot recommend it as fitting it in an emergency situation could be very difficult. In an emergency, I suppose, you could run to safety with only four wheel nuts. I wouldn't, and I don't think my insurance company would be too pleased either.

Hi Arthur, Serves you right for converting that Bentley Bentayga ! Seriously, if you do have a conversion try Scenic, part of LV; but they do have a maximum insured value (and your Bentley is sure to exceed it).

Hello Starider, good morning. No I haven't. My policy, with all my vehicles, is leave well alone. If any need attention, I get a professional to do the job; otherwise things tend to get worse !

https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/mnh10w/130283/electric/8202/#5 https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/mnh10w/130283/electric/8202/#6 Hi Starider, This shows the wiring loom (for a Gen facelift); a pity there is no 'sister' wiring diagram. You may find it helpful. I hope so. Hopefully you can deduce, at least, something from it ! Hopefully better than nothing ! Good Luck. Have you asked your friendly converter, quite close by, for help ?

Silly really, as the 7 and 8 seaters are extremely similar; especially all key dimensions ! ps. They never got back to me when I called them.

Hello Blimp, Welcome to the Forum. Do you have a heated windscreen ? I ask as the wire mesh can lessen, or null, the performance of the aerial. Many aerials are quite directional too, which doesn't help !

I suggest, apart from the language (which doesn't make life easy) you determine why you want to change the unit. It can be done, for sure; but the head units are pretty good; especially if you have the HDD unit. You can use Google to translate both the head unit, and the manual. Not easy, but worth it, imho.

Hi Stuart, You need to tell us all what head unit you have. But, I fear, you will not able to change the language. Hopefully, another member will prove me wrong.

Hi Picasso. I am trying to edit your post as, somehow, lots and lots of blank lines have been included !

https://www.toyota-global.com/company/history_of_toyota/75years/vehicle_lineage/car/id60000198/index.html and click on Catalog

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Alphard Is some info posted by ColinH some time ago (but not what I was thinking of !). There is a comprehensive options list. I'll keep looking !

Hi J, Welcome to the Forum. 2) I bought a vehicle, then had it converted. VAT is chargeable from most dealers on the purchase, and convertors on the conversion. Buying ready converted can be expensive; but finding a convertor, to meet your needs, locality, budget, quality and timescale can be challenging. The main advantage of buying converted is "WISIWIG". No decision other than to Buy or Not to Buy; and the transaction / acquisition is (almost) instant. Getting a conversion can be lengthy. Survey the market. Make decision, Buy vehicle, Place order / deposit and wait (for what can be a lengthy) leadtime. Transition between Gen 1 and Gen 1 facelift was 2005. Referring to the 3L, the facelift came with a 5 speed auto gearbox 1) There is an excellent info sheet, somewhere, (I forget where) that explains all (or most) of the options. However..... It really depends on your budget. If you are expecting to buy a 2005 to 2008, Gen1 facelift model, these are not rare, or unaffordable. Your choices are: Ready converted, or base vehicle. If you go for base vehicle you have much more choice, imho, and you can get the conversion to meet your requirements. A pop top, alone, is likely to cost at least £3000. Back to your question. There is a document / website that lists all the options. Shame I cannot remember it !!!. Somewhere on the vast Toyota website. I'll find it for you. In the meantime, get on Autotrader (you don't have to buy from there) and review what machines are available). Consider, engine size, colour of exterior, colour of interior, essential bells and whistles, etc. Many have rear cameras, they are very useful, but the screen resolution is quire low. Even the 'lower' 'specced' Alphies (especially for the year) are usually quite highly specified. I'll add a link to the Toyota data as soon as I can refind it ! Good Luck, and Happy Hunting. Ps. On the older vehicles (mine is 2006) consider an AA or RAC pre purchase report (£300).

This damage should be quite easy, and not too expensive, to fix in the UK. There are many companies that can do it. As it is on the driver side I would suggest you have it repaired before your MOT.

Hello EaglEye, Welcome to the Forum.

Initially the vendor was very helpful, and still is being, but things have slowed down somewhat. I am being requested to send photos, which I have now done. I had to buy a suitable torque wrench and a correctly sized socket (which is why I asked my mechanic to do the job) which have already cost as much as the wheels. I guess, arguably, I needed them anyway ! I am currently awaiting a response to the photos. Not urgent nut would have been if I were traveling.

Good to know as I intend to visit them to review their selection of compressor coolers.

I have just ordered some. Did you see my post on the security wheel nuts ?

Hi Tony I am a warm weather camper. Went to Gosport Grammar School (as it was then), down at Alverstoke beach. Small world. Safe Travels

The above are Thermal Blinds. Full set £150 ish

Hi Starider, The most coherent instructions on how to use the head unit (that you probably have) is to visit. Eightseaterblog.com If your hard disk has any space left, CDs (or MDs) will be copied to it. As ever, there is a knack to using these Japanese head units. I think you will find the DVD won't work if you are moving or the footbrake is released. It isn't the easiest of things to get used to. Try 8 seater, see how you get on. He has lots of other useful info there. Pairing a Bluetooth phone for example. And he does use photos too.

I know, it is very frustrating. I have a pair of rear seats, in full leather, that I am keeping for the leather. May be able to make some coordinating bits and pieces at a later date. Some dumps won't take them, they may need to be taken to a breakers yard.

Hi Paul, Welcome to the Alphard Club Forum. Alphards are not fitted with diesel engines, Both the larger and smaller engines in each Generation are petrol. Fuel economy is a matter of choice and depends greatly on the type of motoring you do; especially if commuting. But that applies to any vehicle. Many owners use them as daily drivers. The only thing to watch out for is that many Toyota Dealers will not work on Imports; so having a local garage that will if quite important. I would suggest an AA or RAC survey, to be sure. I had one that cost £300. It was very reassuring. Also make sure you get a copy of the auction sheet as they can be very informative. Good Luck with your search. Take your time and you won't be disappointed with your new limousine.

Hi Starider, I respectfully suggest you check one of your new wheel nuts. One the one hand you have the correct ones, unlike me. On the other, you may have incorrect ones as I have. Both your and mine have the same part number (except for the security code designation). The other alternative is that my (original) wheel nuts are incorrect, but they do fit correctly and conform, visually, to the EPC drawing. Just to be safe.

OK, so at the request of the seller, I have removed a wheel nut, It is definitely different to the new security ones supplied. Firstly the diameter of the security nut, where it passes through the wheel, is smaller; which explains why my mechanic said they were too loose ! It also has a tapered end, not flat as the new one does ! The new nut is quite a bit shorter than the original ! Which may not matter other than cosmetically. It could even be an advantage as it makes the security nut noticeably different to the others on each wheel. I am left wondering if the 'flat' reference is relevant to the shoulder of the nut, ie, where it presses the wheel to the wheel stud; or the end of the actual nut Confused, I have checked the Alphard EPC. The nut drawing definitely, imho, shows the end of the wheel nut to be tapered. It may not make any difference, but I AM concerned. I am sending photos off to the supplier and will post them here for awareness. (Photos will be added later). The leftmost nut is the original, the rightmost the new security nut.