Chris.ac

Relay needs installing in the factory socket, passenger side footwell. Fuse is usually fitted, drivers side footwell. You can use the existing socket located on the sonar sensor loom on the driver's side ( photos of all this is available on previous posts) You can add two pins to the existing socket ( the side that attachs to the fog lamp, both the male and female sides were present on 3 alphards i have done, so just add two pins from summer other cheap connector from eBay) I agree, the oem rear fog looks naff, but I'm sure it's actually the entire quarter panel that attaches to the rest bumper, so it's cost will be greater than valenti. Edit. I was wrong about the quarter panel it seems, maybe I'm mixing it up with 10 series winter kit fog

Yes. You can buy a retrofit kit from AliExpress, includes new mirror glass with BSM led, and a panel switch that looks like original Toyota.

I remember this from a few years ago. It should work. I have some reflectors for the door using this method.

The best way to deactivate the airbag is by using an airbag srs defeat resistor ( they use them on rally cars, for obvious reasons) They cost around £15, but you'll need to get to the socket to disconnect the airbag and insert the resistor. They are literally just a regular resistor, so if you know someone that has used a soldering iron and is technically minded, they could do it for less than £5. This is basically the technique. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/140137-diy-airbag-bypass-for-iq/ You could of course just disconnect it, but without the resistor tricking the system, your airbag light on dash will stay on. For ETC. You need to disconnect the plug at the back of the ETC card reader

Just to add. https://www.quotezone.co.uk/car-insurance/average-car-insurance-premium-by-region I think people have an unrealistic view of what they should be paying. I think it depends from the idea that insurance should get cheaper as your no claims increases, whereas the no claims discount is applied after taking into consideration the average insurance increases. Even the month you renew has an effect on price!

Yep, i think we messaged each other on Facebook about the pivot system back when i found it. The hard speed limit, it's not that much of a problem, i don't tend to do over 112mph anyway, lol. The pivot system seems to be the least hassle, and of course you can easily disconnect the whole thing if changing vehicle or selling.

Did the new bushes come with new bolts, or did you reuse?

Ok. I think i have an idea. The long roof lights. There is a connector junction block that seems to loop back. If we break this loopback and fit a separate on off switch, we can manually defeat the logic that activates the mood lighting completely. The following images show the circuit, the connector and it's location. You can see the circuit literally shorts pins 9 and 10, and pins 20 and 21 together. If we access the socket, expose the wiring and cut, fit a DPDT switch, we can manually override the operation of the auto mood lights.

Gotta keep reminding myself, finally got laptop working again.

It's actually pretty amazing, that in the several years of owning the alphard, I've still not found anyone that has managed to remove the cruise or speed limiter. That's across all the 2gr-fe vehicles. I've looked in Russian and Japanese.

You forget to mention, the pivot system also has various throttle mapping, so you get a smoother Eco or more aggressive throttle response. Have you used these settings and can say if they make any difference?

Please try Mark Richards, unless you already did.

Same as before, you need to know if you have the 18, 11 or 8 sis speaker system first. You also have choice of a 'Tesla' style unit, a retrofit 30 series style, a retrofit 40 series style, or standard 8" style. You can spend from £180 to £1000. Some come with the entire surround including the section where the gear select lever is. Some replace the climate control with a touch screen. Some include physical volume and selection buttons etc etc etc.

I had the same, lower window, clean the felt rubber seals, i used an old toothbrush to agitate any dirt . Started working as intended immediately afterwards.

I'll try and get around to looking at the wiring schematic, see if there is a clue, may just need one wire snipped with a switch fitted.

Xtrons do many screens, with some having digital TV, aux in and usb storage options. These can be bought for less than £200.

It depends on what your roof looks like after conversion and where you want to mount it. Many DIY kits have a frame, so it's usually a matter cutting a bit of the lining, fitting the frame and running some wires. If you get a standalone unit, you won't need to rely on the headunit, they can even come with speakers built in. You need to give a bit more info for the answers to be helpful. 1. So you want it to operate independently of the front headunit 2. Do you want it to be a dvd/digital tv player, or do you want it to connect to your phone or usb to play media. 3. Where do you want to mount it. 4. Do you have an existing drop down monitor?

It means you have a 20 series, the ambient rear lighting has a control module behind the rear climate controls. I've not looked into it, but it should be possible to add a switch to kill power to the rear lights, i imagine you could intercept the live from the b pillar, not I've not bothered to locate the actual wire. You could check the wiring diagram available online.

They're should be a GPS cable, it is also grey, i think it comes from the right side of the console. Depending on your headunit, there were digital tv antennas fitted, not sure of the frequency they were tuned to. They are actually installed in the spoiler! If you remove the plastic sitting at the top of the window in the boot, you can see the modulators.

They are part of the telematics system. I doubt many alphards had this more expensive option fitted

Your vin is also under the small removable plastic cover on the floor just in front of drivers seat.

You won't find a fuse, because they are not directly connected to independent power. The cameras are either powered via the headunit, or the intelligent park assist module (ipa) The sonar also connect via the ipa. It's more likely you have corrosion on the camera itself and it is no longer functional.

Aftermarket. Could be anything. Do you have any additional driving lamps, lighting inside? Dashcam or cameras in general? Usb posts somewhere?

Long press will turn them fully off. There are aftermarket modules you can fit that add a memory function, so the lights remember how you left them when switching off ignition. The bad news is, i lost my browser bookmarks when i updated phone, and my backup was not up to date. I had a few websites, in Japanese, that has dozens of upgrades, things like follow me home lighting module, under sliding door kick sensor to open/close when your hands were holding shopping, the interior light memory function etc. I've been searching for ages to find these sites again

Something must be transferring from headunit screen presses, to the ipa, but I've not looked into off it is via the gvif or the canbus. I attach wiring diagram, you will see both can and gvif connections, there are also lin connections for the sonar IPA-2.pdf