Chris.ac

Oh, that's different to mine. Mine actually counts in Japanese and has a zero volume with two separate buttons for increase and decrease. Do you have original headunit? As that also has an etc mute setting.

That centre console contains the hybrid battery pack, and some of the electrics for the management and cooling are under the seats. You might not be able to do what you are trying to do without serious modification

It should work, as i think all the 20 series have the integrated etc with volume controls. If not i can share the disassembly instructions

turn off the notifications by using the volume controls on the etc itself. You can also just disconnect the wiring at the back - just undo the panel, starting with the panel under the dash - you could also then remove it, but what for? youll just end up with a gap in the small storage unit.

ODO.pdf Here is the wiring for the low spec headunit. Its like i said, there are a few connectors for different headunit specs, the fact it was not hidden away suggests a previous owner changed headunit, or was using it for some aftermarket purpose. A handy switched live wire?

Its for the low spec (4 speaker, no external amplifier) headunit. Red 12v is ignition on sense, black is actually speed signal (to adjust the volume when speed increases, u should see it change voltage if in motion) and you rightly state the other red and blue are reverse and parking brake The connector is referred to as F5 in the ODO wiring schematic. There would have been an additional 12v battery (for headunit memory/clock) and 12v supply from the radio fuse provided via a different connector

The are a few taped up connectors hidden in the dash, there were several headunit types, that's all.

Antennas. The 2 port is am/fm. The 4 port will be for TV

You can rewire so the speaker connections bypass the amp and connect directly to the new headunit with integrated amp. TC has a YouTube channel with lots of alphard maintenance and upgrades, as well as a video of him fitting headunit and bypassing amp https://youtu.be/Vk96sLaVA88?si=r6U7WFWHxVHWTBL_

It's also in the official Toyota others manual.

I agree with smurf. New cap is cheap. If it is not sealing, you are reducing the boiling point and losing coolant. Check by loosely wrapping a clean white cloth around the overflow and cap on the reservoir, then checking for pink/red after a drive. You could also have a hairline crack on the reservoir then expands when hot

E10 is fine. You can check similar engines in other Toyota models. JDM Toyotas are manufactured to be compatible with even higher E values. The RON rating is more important to prevent preignition in the more powerful engines.

Remote start antenna.

I'll PM you

Try this ewd file (electrical wiring diagram) message me for link It's in Japanese, but you can print it out and use Google translate

This also works on the 20 series, confirmed. I didn't bother removing the old relay, just the connector, so if it does fail, it's an easy swap back.

The rear middle position is not that bad for general use, just do a swap over on long journeys. It is a proper 3 point harness, the belt is stored in the roof and pulls down with two buckles that give a lap and shoulder belt. In that image, it looks like the rear has both sides set at different angles, hence the exaggerated gap between the fold down armrests. I will say that the centre position is more comfortable than sitting in the centre in the rear of a Mercedes or bmw; there is no centre hump for the drive shaft or exhaust on the floor so there is plenty of legroom.

Good job, yes, no need for later versions of techstream, they add no further function. Just continue to use the version that came with the adaptor - the firmware in the adaptor and the 'hacked' exe in v17 is designed to fool techstream into thinking you are using an official Toyota adaptor.

20 series. 65litres. I've run the tank down as far as I'm willing to risk it, but never managed to get more than. 54litres in before the pump shuts off. I dont know if the capacity is before they displace some space with the actual pump/float/evap purge system, and i imagine that at 'empty' there will be at minimum 5 litres still in tank to keep pump wet and cooled. You can look on YouTube and see some Toyota's like corolla being driven until they stop, and they all seem to be able to run for at least 50 miles when the tank reports empty, one corolla travels about 98miles on empty, which tells you that Toyota is basically reserving up to 10 litres in the tank for cooling and lubrication of the pump. I guess it's similar to how speedo can over read but not under read your speed, they don't want people waiting to refuel to the point going up a steep hill with make engine starved of fuel.

Put doors in manual mode as suggested via the button to left of steering wheel. If you must retain the auto mode, you can use techstream via a laptop and vci cable to reduce the multiple beeps to a single beep.

Check out the electrical system manual here. https://slideplayer.com/slide/10248235/ It has the reset process for Windows and doors. You have to basically put them in manual mode (the ' pwr door off' button to left of the steering wheel) and open fully then close to recalibrate the ecus. Take a read

White paint had a batch issue. Paint was mixed in America and caused recall. Unfortunately, as an import, and being outside the recall window, we are stuffed. It affected pretty much so Toyota with this white paint for a few years either side of 2010

Check the forum posts. Several have had this issue where the drop-down screen has failed. You will find instructions on how to bypass the audio

I agree. Booster usually clamps to outside edge of connector, you might have a contaminate on the inner edge of the battery clamps

Beeping when attempting to use the external door buttons to lock, at least on the 20 series, is an indicator that a fob is inside the vehicle. It's a safety feature to prevent you locking your keys in the car. Maybe you have a fob hidden in the car somewhere? I know some of the remote start systems had a box that a fob was locked in, so that doors could be locked whilst the engine was running unattended.