Chris.ac

No. The immobilizer and stop start are intrinsically linked. Even if you fool it initially, it will cut off as soon as you stop again.

I use the nano WiFi. It works on a 2010 alphard, and they supply a version of techstream that works flawlessly with it. You can also use it in usb mode

Ok, they are using the https://www.toyota-tech.eu/default.aspx online gsic, which mostly is correct, it is based on the export models. Our Japanese vehicles have codes like anh20w, ath20w, ggh20w, whereas the export models end with the letter L or R, eg. ggh20R for right hand drive. Slightly different wiring looms.

Something to be aware of, too, is that the high end amplified headunits are able to play 2 separate audio sources for front and rear, which is probably why there is a loopback

Be careful, there are differences between the JDM alphards and the export market ones (Hong kong, malaysia, uae, Russia) The wiring i have is from the Japanese dealer sold cdrom, and the online gsic versions are the export units ( you'll notice they make reference to left hand and right hand drive) Maybe your drawings are valid, but I'm a little cautious. Where did you get the drawings?

May be easier to run the AC for a bit, then turn off, you'll see it dripping.

Two. One centre of vehicle just bottom of bulkhead, one at rear drivers side, for the rear ac

There's a wire/pin called vmtr, which i think might be the signal to open the screen when held at 12v. I'm just speculating.

Its part of the climate control air quality monitoring system. You will find an airflow/temp sensor and a hose that runs back to the ac control system. The microphone is on the map light, on the right.

If u want to risk testing my suggestion above, you just need to short those 3 sets of pins.

So at a guess. This is what i think needs doing

You can see the loop in this image, you have a wake up signal to the amp from the headunit, and from the amp to the rear screen. (WUO WUI) The signal loop for audio is the mi and mo wires.

I think all that is needed is to loop back the wui/wuo or the mo/mi pins. This is because the MOST network is a circular loop, so when you remove it or the rear screen is broken, the signal loop is broken. Your hack of retaining the board works because it's completing the loop.

I wouldn't use the roof lights, as these have a pulse width modulated voltage.

What about the sunroof control switch positive? That's only live with ign on

If you have the underseat ipa ecu, the cameras are analogue inputs too it, with the gvif being a combined video and overlay going to the headunit. If you have more than one camera, the camera button on the right of steering wheel will continue to cycle through the front/side/rear view, although you cannot interact with the display via the aftermarket headunit, as it will not have the gvif return path as it has been converted to cvds or ldvs

Its hard to know if it's by design or just bad calibration of the gauge. I know that a certain quantity of fuel is required in reserve in order to keep the pump in the tank cooled and lubricated, but 10ltr+ seems excessive. Using a tool like Torque, i can see via the obd² that the fuel tank level is reported, and when i get down to around 10miles capacity, the value does float about during cornering. I wonder if driving until cut out occurs will recalibrate the reading, although that does carry some risk of overheating the pump. Also to bear in mind, you shouldn't force more fuel in after the pulp starts clicking at the fuelling station, as you can damage the carbon canister in the evap system

Really sounds like a connector or loose somewhere, probably when you recover the headunit. The ecu has inputs for Reverse, gear selection, etc, so doors not detecting a park signal etc.

I've found it is most likely to be the mobile device itself that is the problem, rather than the headunit. What phone brand do you have? Some have quite aggressive memory management.

I can only get 52ltr in my tank, when my remaining range is 5 miles.

If you want to bypass that amp, i can give you the wiring diagram. Most of the connections are related to the 10 speakers. You can also check YouTube for youtube.com/watch?v=Vk96sLaVA88 TC bypassed his amp manually

Yellow/orange plugs are always SRS/airbag related. Looks like you have an older 20 series (2008 - Apr2010) Standard 8 channel amp, with the digital tv box in blue on the right (because i bet you have minidisc player in headunit, tv box had to be external due to space, and in later models minidisc was removed and tv box integrated into headunit), IPA is the larger box on the right. Confirm speaker number? Centre dash, tweeters in corners near windscreen, 1 in each front door, 1 in each sliding door(no tweeter in the plastic trim above sliding door locks), 1 each side in rear, which means you should have a sub under drivers seat for a total of 10 speakers, in which case you get an 8 channel amp (centre shares front channels, and sub has it's own amp) The lower spec does not have centre or sub. The 18 speaker system adds 6 roof speakers, and two tweeters in the sliding doors above door locks.

Standard Cruise control range is 24 to 68 mph. Limit at 24 is safety related, because of traveling in a 20 zone you should be more aware of pedestrians etc. Upper limit is Japanese regulations.

Yes, that sounds about right. Mod B is the high end versions that use the IPA ECU. Some of the low end ones do have 6v analogue connections at the headunit. You didn't say if you had front and side cameras? You could also check under passenger seat for the ipa ecu, of you move seat forward, look from the back of the seat, 16 channel amp is on the left, ipa is on the right.

Not clear. Are you trying to install the headunit in the picture, or is that the headunit you are removing?