Chris.ac

I can only get 52ltr in my tank, when my remaining range is 5 miles.

If you want to bypass that amp, i can give you the wiring diagram. Most of the connections are related to the 10 speakers. You can also check YouTube for youtube.com/watch?v=Vk96sLaVA88 TC bypassed his amp manually

Yellow/orange plugs are always SRS/airbag related. Looks like you have an older 20 series (2008 - Apr2010) Standard 8 channel amp, with the digital tv box in blue on the right (because i bet you have minidisc player in headunit, tv box had to be external due to space, and in later models minidisc was removed and tv box integrated into headunit), IPA is the larger box on the right. Confirm speaker number? Centre dash, tweeters in corners near windscreen, 1 in each front door, 1 in each sliding door(no tweeter in the plastic trim above sliding door locks), 1 each side in rear, which means you should have a sub under drivers seat for a total of 10 speakers, in which case you get an 8 channel amp (centre shares front channels, and sub has it's own amp) The lower spec does not have centre or sub. The 18 speaker system adds 6 roof speakers, and two tweeters in the sliding doors above door locks.

Standard Cruise control range is 24 to 68 mph. Limit at 24 is safety related, because of traveling in a 20 zone you should be more aware of pedestrians etc. Upper limit is Japanese regulations.

Yes, that sounds about right. Mod B is the high end versions that use the IPA ECU. Some of the low end ones do have 6v analogue connections at the headunit. You didn't say if you had front and side cameras? You could also check under passenger seat for the ipa ecu, of you move seat forward, look from the back of the seat, 16 channel amp is on the left, ipa is on the right.

Not clear. Are you trying to install the headunit in the picture, or is that the headunit you are removing?

Does engine start up?

If you are not getting those resistances, it says to replace the shift lock control unit assy. I would guess you melted a wire somewhere.

You have techstream?

B2281 is smart entry and start system (start function) Probably looked to some damage to the can system - ECU due not recognise shift is in P. 2.4 or 3.5l?

Pretty sure the dimensions are different. There are 30 series style headunits for 20 series on AliExpress.

There is an adaptor for the Tesla headunits that convert the blue plug into a phono. I'm surprised the seller has not told you this. It's a gvif to phono. Like this https://audiotechdirect.com/atd-crc-27276-reverse-camera-retention-interface-for-toyota-alphard-ah20-estima-with-gvif/ They sell cheaper ones on aliexpress. Just search for alphard gvif adaptor I attach the correct Japanese intelligent parking assist diagram, Incase you decide to go the DIY route IPA-1.pdf

Depends on the exported market model, or if it was a TRD model.

I've not tried this manual method, i might have a go tomorrow with a spare fob. The info comes from a Toyota training presentation, it describes all the electrical system changes from the 10 series to the 20 series https://slideplayer.com/amp/10248235/ The warning function prevents you locking the vehicle from outside door controls whilst the key fob is inside the vehicle. You can test this by lowering window (just to be sure), putting key in vehicle, get out and try locking doors by pressing button on handle, you should hear a long beep, and doors refuse to lock

I was wrong, you can also try this

I've not found a method via fob, but you can do it via techstream, or an obd2 Bluetooth dongle

This is the auto highbeam camera, it will dip the beam when it detected an oncoming vehicle

They have two actual locking points; one on each side of the door.

Do you have an auto high beam button, on the dashboard to the right of the steering wheel? Or do you have a LKA button on the steering wheel itself, the right side

Didn't work, but that was over a year ago. I was working with export model wiring diagrams back then, and have not revisited the point using the Japanese schematics. I think there is an additional input into the security ecu to consider, that of the keyfob arming.

Is your engine running when this happens? Test with engine off. Check your battery/alternator voltages. Did you swap nearside and off side bulbs over to confirm the nearside fault remains?

Definitely something to do with comm ports on your laptop. I saw a fix for the drop outs on another Toyota forum, may be rav4 or the ih8mud site

You have checked the throttle is working correctly? Use the diagnostics outlined here for the throttle and accelerator http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/viewdoc_html/AWI4O_qhU9h2CeTmduUr/AWI4PE8GrzlLPWuuVT0m

Yes. It's the very bottom relay position Easier to reach if you remove the kick panel on the left pillar (one small hand removable plastic nut hooks the panel on)