Chris.ac

I bought mine to understand how my stereo was connected, and used it to trace the factory rear fog light wiring and switch gear. My next upgrade is heated front seats, utilising the existing factory wiring located under each seat and the connector behind the blanking plate. Should be a few hours of works and about £30 for this upgrade

Sure, PM me your Gmail, I'll add you to my Google drive

Obd port under dash right side above accelerator.

If there is anything else you want at same time, zenmarket I believe will hold and repackage all your items to reduce total shipping costs/package amounts.

Well done! I've tried to talk others in to buying, because this cdrom resource is invaluable. It will contain the full set of diagnostics codes and the full workflow of diagnosis, as well as the correct jdm wiring diagrams. My cdrom even has small animations (swf format) showing how the vsc works etc.

Wiring schematic here. http://zatonevkredit.ru/schemes/path/90a45b34bb471b85daf79431205dd16c7c467f0244212cbdcef32ace4c2ad21607a3b456872cdb27d1c6c7d878f8bbac80f22ace926c5fb60cc03873eb853f43b292ad84033de4642ed8a57de2705d3fe24eba5b1664164de8eb2ae1c76bb48e48b9f83637302aff0a7d104443a3b8c7140ece69a84d4f947b419547cbb678ce2215869d

2nd opinion required. The heater controls are connected via a single plug, which is actually partly connected to the canbus. Which fuses did they check? There are 4 fuse boxes in total in the 20 series. It is possible the controller is faulty, but not very likely.

Do you have a roof mounted screen? If so, lower it, does the carplay unit show up on the roof screen when aux is selected? Can you post image of your headunit? The headunit will not display video from the aux input if the parking brake is not applied, so when the carplay is fitted, either the parking brake signal is grounded in the headunit, or an aftermarket switch is used to toggle the signal

Found a copy via zen market. Not cheap though. https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=w201630412 It was for a series 10 hybrid?

Perfect, you should be fine then, the cdrom uses the older IE5.5 standard and appalling frames. On windows 7 it was quite simple to use compatibility mode, but windows 10/11 really bodged that up.

I will see if I can find a link, it's a bit difficult, because you need to get the search phrase just right so the Japanese translation works. The cdrom will be in Japanese, and it will be painful to use unless you have a copy of windows xp or a virtual machine to run it on. Im translating my 2010 ggh20w version, mostly the navigation frames, once those are done the actual pages can be auto translated in chrome browser. I can assist, but it is time consuming. If you visit the link I put up on the first page, that is basically what the cdrom contents will look like

Running temperature and preignition and compression. You should change the sparkplugs to match the new temperature range. The e5 e10 due not matter, but in the UK e5 is usually greater then 95ron. If you use this in the engines designed to run on 89 to 95 ron, you need to generate more heat in the spark plug to ignite the fuel, as higher ron is more compressible before ignition. This means you have a higher energy drain from the alternator/battery, a hotter engine, and an ecu that is trying to correct fueling trim levels more often. E5 95+ron fuel is used in the higher compression engines. The argument only applies to the 3 and 3.5 litre, as these are designed to use higher ron fuel. 2.4 only needs 91ron, which in the UK usually means e10, the fuel economy part comes from the calorific value of e10 vs e5. E5 in a 2.4 may provide more mpg, but be aware of the ron value.

About £70 mostly due to the ridiculous shipping and commission fees. Books would set you back over£100.

Did you have your dash converted to mph via electronic box, or speedo face plate swap? If electronic, the figures on the dash are now miles per litre, not km/l. The G button takes its reading via canbus directly from ecu so it is in the correct km/L

Do you mean the sliding doors? Or the actual back door/boot/luggage hatch? That remote does not have a back door button on it. If you mean the sliding doors, your ecu may be set to double click, long press or single click and may need to unlock drivers door first.

Only found on japanese auction sites, either on cdrom or more expensive paper manuals

Fuel: Hit the physical button with large G in the Japanese text, then press on 2nd on screen icon (bargraph) You will see a chart for each running minute. If you press the lower left screen button, it will show 'trips' that you update by long pressing the steering wheel 'disp' button while the 'eco graph' is shown on the dashboard screen (you can get to the eco graph by pressing the 'disp button' to cycle through the various screens. When you long press the 'disp' button, it resets the average fuel use in the dash and transfers it to the headunit memory

E10 in UK regular Ron fuel. Toyota designed and specced the engines and seals that are perfectly fine with this from early 2000s, at least on the JDM models, euro built engines are a different beast

Well, here's the thing, the quoted mpg or km/l as quoted by Toyota are worse than what is achievable here in the UK, because they are based off of their e20 fuel, so we get a small bonus by virtue of using e10/e5. Happy days, lol.

What specific wiring are you looking for? I dont own a 10series, so im not fully motivated to translate all the japanese from the online site - it does contain all the routing diagrams to indicate where the wiring is, as well as what it connects to. An alternative is to download a copy of the russian alphard/previa workshop manual, unfortunately, its in russian. search for "1067-TOYOTA-ALPHARD-2002-2008-ESTIMA-(2000-2006)-workshop-manual-download"

I can talk you through the other things, like setting Bluetooth calling and media (two separate connections) using the 'G' button to track fuel economy, using the service reminder screen (to set up milage to alert you when to change oil, filter, brakes,tyres, coolant etc) lots of stuff is usable, just not the inbuilt TV tuner and the FM is band restricted, so you can only get radio 2 and some local pirate stations. You can also turn off the ETC voice reminders, you can adjust the sensitivity of the sonar parking, some other options too.

I have parking sensors, so don't need to use this little mirror, but if you practice, you can use it to check your nearside bumper is clear of the vehicle in front, so you can make much tighter parallel parking manoeuvres. I used some old drinks bottle filled with water to simulate a parked car, and tested it. You'll be surprised by how much room you have.

On head unit, press the top left physical button (screen settings) Then press the middle top onscreen 'button', this will drop down the roof monitor. The on screen top right 'button' will turn off the headunit screen (turns black), useful if you want less distraction when driving.

Each revision is detailed in Toyotas 'ncf' (new car features) bulletins. I do have the 20 series ones up to 2014 I think, I will upload them to my Google drive

You have electric tailgate? Do you have 'soft close' (where a motor pulls door tight if you don't close it fully?) It sounds like the soft close motor is disengaging, maybe a loose connection, or debris in the latch mechanism? My Softclose had a rattle, I took off the rear plastic trim, and 2 of the screws that hold the lock mechanism had worked their way completely loose!