Chris.ac

The connector k is an input to the headunit. The signal out to the rear screen is void connector c I think. Send me a pm with an email address, so I can forward a scan of the Japanese wiring. The English versions you can find online are based on export models of the 20 series, as used in Russia, hongkong, etc, they usually had lower spec headunit/amplifiers

You have a copy of the CDROM? There are two schematics, based on premium sound (18 speaker) or super live sound (11 speaker) If you have 2008 >2010 you will have a green connector on back, as the Japanese TV tuner connected to this. 2010 > onwards has the TV tuner built in to headunit by removing the minidisc player

There is a manual available, it's in Japanese. There also always to be software you can install on pc to manage the files it records.

2nd MOT, no problems. It's all about beam pattern, so don't put led in dipped beam.

The numbers/letters on the shifter should be illuminated. The bezel around the shifter is not, that's an AliExpress/Amazon.jp mod. The device nearest rear view mirror is for auto windscreen wipers, it's a rain detector. ETC, useless in this country, can be removed, would be interested to see if they connected it to anything up top or if it has it's own wire run to fuse box. Furthest unit is dash cam, obviously.

Well, did it have electronic Speedo converter or faceplate change? You've had it a month? Any other mods? New headunit?

Rear screen will be controllable from the headunit, if it's the official Toyota one still fitted. Not sure those luxury model seats are capable of going further back; check near the rear of the seat for a removable panel, on earlier models a panel hid a lever that allowed the centre seats to be pushed closer together, and allowed them to slide back further avoiding the tyre wells. But it looks like your seats are unable to be pushed closer due to the pull out table.

Toyota has quite a generous 'reserve' amount of around 10litres. The needle/warning light is calibrated for 50 litres. You can see this via the obd2 data, the remainder of the tank is reserve and fuel filter and evap system.

Amayama is also good.

Has someone fitted a USB socket next to it? In a blank switch space? The usually piggyback the cig connector(plug and play) possibly the cig socket was not reconnected

sorry, late to the party. looks like you sorted it - 20 year old panel finally packed in it seems!

the mode button works with the original head unit and swaps it between FM/AM/CD/AUX etc, its basically like pressing the physical buttons on the headunit in sequence

the bulb types are listed on the top of the headlamp casing, embossed in to the plastic. no need to remove to see what they are.

wait, that picture is NOT your vehicle and your box is currently closed and will not slide forward? is that it? in this case, is there something jamming it from the lower storage position?

I do not understand the question - the box is open as it is slid forward towards the front console, do you mean you want to slide it closed to cover the rear storage? Open the cupholder compartment and inside there is a handle on the rear edge that unlocks the sliding portion

You will need someone with Techstream, which is EVERY toyota dealer because its their official software - they will blow smoke about imports not being supported. If you have a laptop, you can buy a VCI cable from ebay for about £30 - this will allow you to program the key yourself, which is a pretty simple procedure, as long as you have 1 working fob already.

I bought spare from this dude, works perfectly after programming: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255649911789

6 months before I had to use it, started up first press of button. Same battery used to jump my son's car that was not used over the uni term. State of charge is still around 80% I have a bt battery monitor on both cars and the spare. Once a week I walk past and grab the current status.

thinking about it, the chip should not matter, if it is wired correctly, as the data into the chip is the original source that is shared to the abs and steering, cruise and engine ecu. your binding brakes are more the concern, as this would definitely affect the ABS speed sensors, it may well be the steering ecu responding as if your wheels have locked and you are in a skid.

nice, i have a 75D23L installed, max I have seen online in a D23L size was 95A (95D23L) - moving to D26L may be the way to go. At moment, I just carry a spare battery from my old 3L Diesel in the back with jumpleads, just in case.

all 4 wheel speed sensors are fed in, it may be thinking you are in a skid condition. You really need to connect up diagnostics, techstream preferably, you can then monitor all 4 wheels and the steering angles. Try turning off the VSC (long hold the 'skid' button to the right of steering wheel, whilst parking brake is on with engine running, see if this makes a difference.

EPS.pdf Wiring diagram for powersteering,

those early alphards were based on the granvia, there is not really a canbus to be spoken of, so not much can be accessed via techstream beyond engine. any customisation would probably be accessible via the toyota head unit, or voodoo turning of the ignition key whilst holding a button or flicking a lightstalk.

the D refers to width and height, not diesel. 80D23L = Performance score (based on capacity and cranking(80) Width/height (173mm x 204mm) length (230mm) left terminal -ve (L) Try to get the performance score as high as possible, the D23L part are important to ensure it fits in the battery holder and clamp.