Chris.ac

Also, you may need to recalibrate the auto levelling. Refer to the following document for the process (The document details the function and config of the electrical systems) https://slideplayer.com/amp/10248235/

Could you confirm that you have the correct HID bulbs fitted, and not aftermarket LED ones? Some of the aftermarket 'upgrades' are heavier at the rear due to heatsinks or fans or additional cabling.

Install caura (android app) once you put in your reg, it will display every emissions based zone in the country, and if your vehicle is exempt. By default, your 2005 alphard did not come with an emissions cert. As it was not manufactured in the EU. The criteria ulez uses by default, it's to classify anything older than 2007 as non compliant, regardless of the fact the 2.4l is used in other compliant Toyotas

there is a drain for the AC condensate at the rear drivers side (the rear AC unit is fitted in the rear right - you will see vents for it)

On the older prefacelift 10 series, a retrofit kit like this is needed https://www.conrad-anderson.co.uk/products/view/cc177209100 You may be able to find cheaper if you search

Thats right - the older cable controlled throttles do not have the same mechanism, therefore the ECU cannot control the throttle position to adjust speed. You will need a seperate controller and mechanical actuator that connects to the existing throttle cable to simulate you pressing and releasing the accelerator pedal. By its very nature and parts requirement, it will be more expensive - there are kits available (or at least there were), you may need to look for older Granvia/Hiace setups.

You have a 20 series? When I originally posted this, the forum was not split in to two sections for 10 and 20 series, so the instructions here may not be applicable to 10 series.

Part way down this page is the list of fluid amounts depending on service http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWI4PNqnBFyj9RK37LmN

Was in this thread, these two wires connected to ground fools the headunit into thinking you are parked, so full access to BT config, and aux/dvd video playback on front screen.

I think I did, somewhere is a post with a photo of the wires. I may revisit at some point, as I only used junction connectors instead of soldering, as my soldering iron was broken at the time

I took longer route, removed a and b pillar trim, removed roof grab handles, removed visors. Then dropped roof lining enough to disconnect the hose clips, I did mine in the baking sun, so as I tipped the hose, nice warm water poured out, I could see my wire I used to try and clear blockage via the exposed clear tube, all the way to the floor, but no amount of prodding cleared it, until I blew it through with a pump, then a nice instant puddle formed under car.

2 wires on rear of head unit, I've got speed sense and one for parking brake, I have mine grounded (I think, rather than 12v) this allows me to modify BT whilst in motion, so wife/kids can connect when they want to dj.

Yep, standard headunit on 18 speaker system allows you to create two sound zones, for front and rear with independent volume control. I can stream radio to front 8 speakers, and dvd to rear 10. If a phonecall comes in it will further split the front, and continue to Complain on japanese when I upset it

Dvds will continue on rear screen, even without modification. I agree with you, the standard unit is excellent. I use mostly streamed radio via Bluetooth, as I have unlimited data. I've thought many times of replacing headunit, but there are far easier ways to add satnav, such as a replacement digital mirror that has either android with DVR, or android auto and carplay functionality. You can even use as adaptor that connects to the rain sensor to provide power, so you don't need to route wires and mess about with fuses

Here - its in japanese, so you need to either use an online pdf translator, or use google translate on your phone. http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/index4.html

Id say the black switch is for those aftermarket LED footwell lights. Why they didnt just reuse the existing loom, or retrofit the correct LEDs from the higher speced vehicles blows my mind.

Check these codes: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=%24*KwGYrL2I0uLz6NDAxoO8pMDU9PPt1MXs1dGJw5CJ9o-Gic-Mycmc1N7FyerQjs2amcOQn4CPzMLIjMnf2Z6bnY-GicXA0cfDkp-VlZ-a7oyOg5fDz-zWiMjPjMndw52an5-Zm46C09-I3omWjYj77fyysMOGi47AyYmWjtG6puKZnOGH--r6orbDhouO28mJlo7RydGb_I6BionKx5ff24qS0QAAAACq5yQU%24&vid=0&cid=4&uid=332495&q=

you could buy the russian/chinese spec stalks, they were reversed due to left hand drive. In fact, discovering the russian stalks is what led me down the path of getting an upgraded light stalk that had front AND rear fog light switches on it. if you havr the toyota EPC software, you can pull the correct part numbers by searching for the chassis codes GGH20L, ATH20L, ANH20L instead of GGH20W, ANH20W and ATH20W

did they actually diagnose the fault, or stick a wet finger in the air?

there is an aftermarket box that plugs in to the obd port, that will auto fold mirrors and close windows when you lock doors

It's unlikely you have auto tilt, then, unfortunately. do you have auto fold mirrors? when locking/unlocking? It is interesting to know how these functions are linked, as the documentation is all in japanese

looking at the wiring diagrams, it seems to be added to alphards that have auto retract mirrors on the 10 series - although it may have been an option. on the 20 series, there are two looms, one has an additional 4 wires for a horizontal and vertical hall sensor, and additional wires for the retract motor, this function can also be tested by manually pushing the glass out of position when everything is switched off, when you turn on the ignition, the mirror corrects itself.

Do you have memory driver seat? (The panel with 1, 2, 3 mounted on the door)? The auto tilt relies on the vertical hall sensor on the mirror that is part of the memory setting functions.

Depends on if you prefer to cruise at 60, or 70 and the time of day. A303 has sections at 40, 50 and 60mph, whereas M4/M5 is 70 except if there are closures.