Chris.ac

Wrist kind of protection? Are they in toddler seats? If so, I used some heavy duty gsrden refuse bags, you could also use cheap shower curtains, then for the booster seats over the top. If you have older children, you could go with universal covers that suit for things like previas and VWs etc. Otherwise 250 sounds like a good price for purpose fitting covers that do not interfere with the tilt and slide mechanisms etc

I agree with babu, the cost of the seats will run you to over £4k. You'll need to modify the rails, which will mean modifying the soundproofing layer and carpets, you may need to look at the side panels to ensure enough clearance, but I'm just throwing that out as a precautionary check. The loom will partially work, but you'll definitely need to do work there, either by getting a 30 series partial loom, or creating one from scratch. I think you would need to really love your 20 series to spend that amount of cash, I think it may be more cost effective to buy a 30 series. You can buy new front end that gives you a 30 series look, bonnet, wings, bumper, grill and lights, and I've even seen the rear converted by chopping a section of the rear, and fitting a new quarter panel to for the new higher up lights and new tailgate, bumper. Bonkers money, I'm not sure how the Malaysian owners afford it.

Can you go to the 'eco' Disp on your dash (the screen with the little bar graph) Long press the Disp button on the steering wheel until the reading on the dash zeros. Now on the headunit, go to the consumption screen and press the lower left screen icon, the last bar on right will be the last average consumption since the Disp button was last long pressed. In this way, you can transfer your average consumption each time you fill up. What reading does that show? And is there any previous data bars to compare against? The data may have been lost if the battery was disconnected, I never got the chance to see what the previous japanese owner managed to get as a comparison.

I'm not sure about lpg. But 28mpg sounds right, depending on driving routes and speed.

Ah boy, some common sockets, but also some alien to me. the cdrom will at least detail every plug

More complex answer. The depends on year/generation of the alphard. If you have the split 40/60 middle row, you could push the 60 section forward right up against the front seats, then with rears pushed forward, you could store the luggage on the rear seats and the gap behind the 60 portion. That should give enough dodge for lab in rear, especially if you for adults to bolt upright position. If you use a cage, it is much easier to fold rear seats away. Maybe someone can post a picture of the 10 series with rears pushed forward. I have a 20 series of you were thinking of buying that model (may2008 onwards)

Simple answer. Yes.

It's because most of the standard sites like aliexpress, ebay etc are bringing up the export model wiring (E.g. From a ggh20R instead of a ggh20W) because a lot of the stuff on those sites are from Malaysian export modifications Have to be quite specific or use japanese sites

Spot on. You need a headunit from a Hong Kong or Malaysian export model. Be aware the wiring connectors are different too. You can tell the jdm vs export model by the chasis code. Anh20w is japanese Anh20R or anh20L are export for (R)ight and (L)eft hand drive

No. They work to a script, no critical thinking skills.

It was a 10 series hybrid you owned?

We can get the part number of the aux plug, and then you can create your own, or try and find an estima at a scrap yard?

I bought mine to understand how my stereo was connected, and used it to trace the factory rear fog light wiring and switch gear. My next upgrade is heated front seats, utilising the existing factory wiring located under each seat and the connector behind the blanking plate. Should be a few hours of works and about £30 for this upgrade

Sure, PM me your Gmail, I'll add you to my Google drive

Obd port under dash right side above accelerator.

If there is anything else you want at same time, zenmarket I believe will hold and repackage all your items to reduce total shipping costs/package amounts.

Well done! I've tried to talk others in to buying, because this cdrom resource is invaluable. It will contain the full set of diagnostics codes and the full workflow of diagnosis, as well as the correct jdm wiring diagrams. My cdrom even has small animations (swf format) showing how the vsc works etc.

Wiring schematic here. http://zatonevkredit.ru/schemes/path/90a45b34bb471b85daf79431205dd16c7c467f0244212cbdcef32ace4c2ad21607a3b456872cdb27d1c6c7d878f8bbac80f22ace926c5fb60cc03873eb853f43b292ad84033de4642ed8a57de2705d3fe24eba5b1664164de8eb2ae1c76bb48e48b9f83637302aff0a7d104443a3b8c7140ece69a84d4f947b419547cbb678ce2215869d

2nd opinion required. The heater controls are connected via a single plug, which is actually partly connected to the canbus. Which fuses did they check? There are 4 fuse boxes in total in the 20 series. It is possible the controller is faulty, but not very likely.

Do you have a roof mounted screen? If so, lower it, does the carplay unit show up on the roof screen when aux is selected? Can you post image of your headunit? The headunit will not display video from the aux input if the parking brake is not applied, so when the carplay is fitted, either the parking brake signal is grounded in the headunit, or an aftermarket switch is used to toggle the signal

Found a copy via zen market. Not cheap though. https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=w201630412 It was for a series 10 hybrid?

Perfect, you should be fine then, the cdrom uses the older IE5.5 standard and appalling frames. On windows 7 it was quite simple to use compatibility mode, but windows 10/11 really bodged that up.

I will see if I can find a link, it's a bit difficult, because you need to get the search phrase just right so the Japanese translation works. The cdrom will be in Japanese, and it will be painful to use unless you have a copy of windows xp or a virtual machine to run it on. Im translating my 2010 ggh20w version, mostly the navigation frames, once those are done the actual pages can be auto translated in chrome browser. I can assist, but it is time consuming. If you visit the link I put up on the first page, that is basically what the cdrom contents will look like

Running temperature and preignition and compression. You should change the sparkplugs to match the new temperature range. The e5 e10 due not matter, but in the UK e5 is usually greater then 95ron. If you use this in the engines designed to run on 89 to 95 ron, you need to generate more heat in the spark plug to ignite the fuel, as higher ron is more compressible before ignition. This means you have a higher energy drain from the alternator/battery, a hotter engine, and an ecu that is trying to correct fueling trim levels more often. E5 95+ron fuel is used in the higher compression engines. The argument only applies to the 3 and 3.5 litre, as these are designed to use higher ron fuel. 2.4 only needs 91ron, which in the UK usually means e10, the fuel economy part comes from the calorific value of e10 vs e5. E5 in a 2.4 may provide more mpg, but be aware of the ron value.

About £70 mostly due to the ridiculous shipping and commission fees. Books would set you back over£100.