Chris.ac

What is your chassis code, e.g.. DBA-GGH20w The first letters detail the emissions compliance

You'll be looking for a long time, Alphards were not built in the 1980s

they should have used a ring binder, so it sits flat, and lets you laminate the pages.

I can't break copyright, but there is nothing to stop you searching on Google for: Japanclassic fsm

Alloys as standard, depending on trim, 4wd or hybrid, you had 15" up to 17"

If Toyota relaunched the sera as an ev, id buy one, it was such a fun car.

its the precursor to the early 20 series built in (standard tech) Plasmacluster Ioniser system, and the late model 20 series Nano-e technology. On the 10 series it was an option, like you have discovered, these systems go back to at least 1990, I had an ioniser in my 1994 Toyota Sera (which incidentally was the first production car to have projection style headlamps) reportedly, there was a Sera parked not far from Gordon Murray’s home that he would drive past most days. This led to him borrowing one and using it as the inspiration for the Mclaren F1’s dihedral doors

Has anyone tried hybrid assistant app (android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=priusfan.info.bthsd10

Have you looked in the manual for specs? http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/mokuzi/repair_03.html

Any motor factor should have them, so you have the part number or are you getting them to try looking up the alphard? As some places don't list alphard, but have the part as it is used on other Toyota

There is a plastic cover near the rear bulkhead of the engine back, it is labelled, that is the positive terminal, you connect a charger to that and the negative to chassis, someone with a hybrid should be able to explain better, I think its been posted about before if you search.

Ah, hybrid - my advice is moot, sorry - your member details listed it as a 2.4 petrol, not the 2.4 hybrid. Your problems most probably lie with the hybrid HV battery or the controller, not the 12V battery. The Hybrid has a socket in the engine bay for attaching a booster/jump start lead - you should try this first. Does the 12V battery you have fitted actually have a charge? you can pick up a tester for under £15 from somewhere like Wilko, or even Tesco.

I was going to suggest fitting it inside out, that would allow the zipped section to be on the drivers side, but then I see the material surfaces are different on the inside vs outside.

You guys really need to learn how to disconnect the HV and 12v batteries when in storage, I'm sure there is a master fuse in the engine bay, and also a kill switch on the hv battery inverter ourself Have none of you tried to purchase the Toyota service manuals on CDROM? They can be found for around £70 including shipping from Japan. Club together and buy one - this is what you are after (I'm not the seller, and you can find this cheaper, this is to show what you need) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364072895945 The manuals include full diagnostic flowchart and all the codes that can be o/p from the obd port. We can only help so much, but without the source tech manual specifically for the hybrid, we are operating blind. In they past, I've forked out my own cash to help out (I have access to the 10 and 20 non-hybrid series technical manuals), or spent many hours to source data online that I can share (again, for 10 and 20 series non-hybrid I have posted links to online copies of the technical manuals) , I am pretty sure this info is available online for the hybrid too, but you will need to use Japanese or Malaysian search sites.

Did car work fine before battery went flat? There are some main high current fuses, one of these must have blown. Now the reason for the initial flat battery, this is the concern. A battery going flat would not blow fuses, so something happened, maybe a rodent has chewed through some wire? Are the battery clamps free of rust? Auto electrician should be able to check wiring from battery to alternator and the main fuses pretty quickly, but if the problem lies beyond that, that's when it may take time. All the electrical diagrams are available, but labelled in Japanese at: http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/index4.html

Winter pack fog light on the 10 series. The wiring socket should be there (the existing sidelight on the 'middle' lights has an additional unused wire - that is the fog live)

You could look at the wiring diagrams. I've avoided my laptop whilst on Xmas break, so not ready for me to check. I believe the active antenna in the spoiler and right side rear glass has a switched live feed, as they come on with headunit.

Not enough information. Why was battery changed? What was the status before the change? Warning lights etc? When you say 'dead' is this everything? Dashboard lights, central locking, brake lights, etc etc. If you connect battery reversed, although most of the electrics are protected, you could damage the ecu.

Techstream is an official tool for diagnosis of toyota from 1996. Fully supports JDM vehicles. If you have a laptop, it is the best tool for under £50 - you can buy VCI cable and copy of techstream on ebay.

My point wasn't clear. I mean the camera unit mounting itself, the molding and mount position, it may be possible to buy a 30 series rear view camera (separate from reversing camera which is fitted near number plate.) Not suggesting replacing the internal rear view camera (which has redundancy built in already, because the 30 series mirror shows you to use old school or digital (the digital allows you to zoom, check blind spots)

I have the limo privacy tint, so the sides are near black from outside, with the rear being slightly more transparent. Have you tried looking at how the 30 series digital rear view mirror camera is set up? I have not done so yet, but it may be something that can be fitted for a more oem look

Type 'techstream key programming' in to YouTube. Plenty of videos to suit all toyota key types. The procedure is pretty much the same for all, it's such a quick process writing it out would take longer.

Photo of head unit? They're is more then one type of genuine headunit, based on 3 configurations of speaker and amplifier. There is also a cut off period where the minidisc was removed.

Mine is definitely tinted with film, it's factory fitted but there are a few small damage spots from scratches that confirm it's a film

I'm looking at the module that allows you to stop/start engine, lock/unlock doors, open/close windows and set the cabin climate control/AC via mobile phone app. Around £250 DIY. The AC control for the summer would be nice.