Chris.ac

you always have option of turning off power doors = no beep. I bought this techsteam and dongle, you need a laptop to use it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e2zvldr0qu6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=l_Ov49c3Q-O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY my bt one looks like this, I bought it back in 2013, so I don't have exact look any more. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134086659995?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yekqx0garis&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=l_Ov49c3Q-O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

you always have option of turning off power doors = no beep. I bought this techsteam and dongle, you need a laptop to use it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e2zvldr0qu6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=l_Ov49c3Q-O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

you always have option of turning off power doors = no beep.

the velcro is there, it is very strong. the bolts are covered by plastic L shaped trim. I'll see if I have a photo. edit.. The photos I took are too blurry to be useful, was holding liner whilst trying to take photo. Honestly, if the blockage has traveled far down the tube, dropping the corner of the roof lining is the best solution. You need to remove the visor, the grab handles, the front pillar trim, the bottom, then top middle pillar trim, note the longer can be pulled down, the tube is held on by a clip, be careful of the liquid inside, the water in mine was warm sure to the sun being out, and you don't want any thing like legionnaires disease ( unlikely, but possible). No amount of working and feeding a wire in would clear blockage, so I blew it through at low pressure using a tyre inflator, it's pretty obvious when it clears, as you get about a pint of water running out the bottom of the car.

Bought on my wifes amazon account (she had Prime, so was next day delivery for free) I believe it was these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sinoparcel-D4S-HID-Bulb-Replacement/dp/B07K33QCGJ They were about £18 when I bought them, but inflation I guess!. I will ask Wife to check tomorrow, when she is awake

The flickering is subtle, it took me several days of thinking I was imagining things, so I parked up with lights shining on a wall after a long drive at night, and yep, flickering. I was worried it might be ballast, which is a little more expensive to replace!

My bulbs got to the point where they would flash, it took me a while to notice, and it would not happen for about 20mins, the D4S HID bulbs were knackered, cost less than £20 on amazon to get replacement bulbs, wear gloves changing them, as any contaminant from fingers will kill the bulbs. After replacing them, it may take several/10s of hours of burn in for them to reach their maximum illumination, after which they are set.

do they appear to flash a few times before cutting off? if so, the HID bulb has reached end of life, you could swap the bulbs between sides and see if the problem follows the bulb, or if it is still the passenger side cutting out, in which case it may be the ballast, loose or dirty connectors, even a fuse not fully seated.

Check your tyre pressures are equal across all wheels. If ABS ecu detects a large enough delta measurement between wheels, it will throw an error. The fact you have ABS, VCS (Skid control) coming on seems related, do you have standard 16/17" wheels?

2 options, a BT OBD2 dongle that is Japanese market compatible, and an app on phone/tablet (Carscanner), or a VCI cable and techstream software (Ebay sell these for under £50 - it can adjust all the user servicable settings, read all the diagnostic codes and program keyfobs) Cheapest route is the OBD2 dongle, should cost under £20, the android software can read codes, and set the options, you lose the keyfob programming option, but how many times will that be used. I have both, I leave the dongle attached, so can connect anytime and see fuel trim levels, etc.

it can be changed to a single bleep on open and on close, rather than the beep beep beep beep sound.

I don't think you need to remove the entire console to get to the bulbs, just the plastic lens. It should prise out using a guitar pick or plastic tool or similar.

the parking sensors utilise the blue square gvif connector to the headunit via the IPA ECU to provide visual feedback. The IPA ECU also sends an o/p to the amplifier and uses the drivers side speaker or centre speaker where available to provide the beeps and the japanese voice that yells at you. When I was experimenting, by disconnecting the GVIF connector, the headunit reverted to a different display for the sensors, and the sound persisted, so there may be some data sent via the canbus.

Yep, unfortunately in Japanese, I found those last year, before tracking down the english owners manual. Thanks for the reminder of that link though

I have ordered from amayama, was painless, and for the parts I needed (part of dashboard trim, and new light stalk) it was cheaper than other sites.

how many 'clicks' did you press it down?, mine holds fine.

shows all plugs and wiring. following shows just the main plug with reverse, parking brake and speed sense

front cam actually goes to a separate intelligent parking assistant computer, from there it uses the blue digital connection. you need a separate unit that converts this to a standard phono connector

I posted wiring on a thread a couple of days ago

let's be thankful is a Toyota, my friends Merc c class is always throwing fits and error messages, latest thing is the reverse cam has stopped functioning, and it has a motorized cover on it so will be probably the cost of a set of tyres to replace

no, gen 1 is a single panel, and because it's held by two screws on lower rim is not possible to remove without damage, whilst door closed. 20 series has 4 removable panels to access the bulbs and lock

on the rear panel, there is a panel that is removed to access the manual override with a screwdriver

I suppose you cannot access the lock panel cover, if bed in way?

Checked on amayama.com, part numbers, searched for them with uk stock, or you could go with importing via amayama: https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/oen/4243158020 https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/oen/4351228190 (amayama search here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/GGH25W/63675/chassis) Thats the front/rear discs, the pads are common across many toyota, but use amayama to get the part numbers.